Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
The nets look grand on the deck, and the trim painting helps things pop out.
-
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering. -
PRE-ORDER SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.
NOTE THAT OUR FIRST ISSUE WILL BE JAN/FEB 2026
HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft
- Thread starter HMSFly
- Start date
- Watchers 33
-
- Tags
- agamemnon caldercraft
The Cathead assembly: instead of using a single 5x5mm block, I opted for a different technique. For this, I glued together four strips of 4 x 1mm and three strips of 4 x 0.5mm, respectively. However, the 0.5x4mm strips are shorter than the long ones, so I get perfectly aligned grooves. And this saved me a lot of fiddling around cutting out the grooves.
And I did not forget the "lions head"....
And I did not forget the "lions head"....
Next step: the "lower gun battery" and gun lids:
The next step is to assemble the "big guns." To place the guns precisely in the center (you need to drill a hole in the previously placed wooden blocks), I used an earlier tool to determine the dimensions of the gun ports: drill a hole exactly in the center, and the rest went smoothly.
Drilling the holes (intended for the ropes) was another challenge. I wanted perfect symmetry, so I glued two copper plates to the previously used attachment, which served as a template for the hand drill. This way, I always achieved the exact 22 mm spacing... (spec).
The next step is to assemble the "big guns." To place the guns precisely in the center (you need to drill a hole in the previously placed wooden blocks), I used an earlier tool to determine the dimensions of the gun ports: drill a hole exactly in the center, and the rest went smoothly.
Drilling the holes (intended for the ropes) was another challenge. I wanted perfect symmetry, so I glued two copper plates to the previously used attachment, which served as a template for the hand drill. This way, I always achieved the exact 22 mm spacing... (spec).
And next step:
started to work on the Stern
working on the details in between...
Preparing the sculptures. A good friend 3D-printed them. Now the work is to remove the excess plastic.
Hi Allan,
"noblesse oblige" ..
Yes, I still follow your excellent advice...just wait until the stern is gone!
Hi Allan,View attachment 571697 Are the wooden looking parts painted? They look like they could be actual wood in the photo
Thanks
Allan
Yes, I painted the parts in Yellow Occre. This to better see the printed details in order to mill away the excess plastic.
next step completed
the continuation of applying the moldings:
The next step in applying the moldings and the technique I used: a 2mm cord glued to the moldings, and a 1mm wire for the upper section, pre-painted in yellow ochre and then glued. Afterward, everything was neatly painted and varnished again.
The next step in applying the moldings and the technique I used: a 2mm cord glued to the moldings, and a 1mm wire for the upper section, pre-painted in yellow ochre and then glued. Afterward, everything was neatly painted and varnished again.
and in between, applying the Fore, Main and Mizzen channels respectively.
The sequel: finishing the Stern
And not yet finished....
still sculpture is missing... to be continued
And not yet finished....
still sculpture is missing... to be continued
the channels.... work in progress
felt like doing some precise painting work....
Almost finished.....
The Rudder.....
