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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
Thank you very much. Yes, we doctors, like craftsmen, must be able to develop our fine motor skills. But still, thanks for the praise. And yes, you are right about the powder monkeys.. I read about it and the Horatio Hornblower series showed it well.Hello Sergey,
the figure turned out really nice and your construction is just great. No wonder you work so delicately. After all, you are a dentist and certainly a very good one!
Cheers Günther
5.2. Beams and Carlengs (body fit).
All preparatory moments are over and the upper deck can be assembled. And as always - first a little theory.
Anatomy drawings show how Beams and carlengs should be placed. But it is also clearly visible that some longitudinal slats (which strengthened the deck boards from deflection) of different widths. If you miss the moment of insignificant differences, then in addition to the standard size there are reinforced slats that were thicker. On my scale, it's 1.8 and 3mm respectively. I marked the latter in yellow.
In addition to those places where the slats are smaller in number and made thicker for reinforcement, there are also places where such slats were placed around the hatches or to strengthen vertical elements.
It was simplified in the set, but I decided to add this point. Plus, I decided to completely redo the workpieces for all these rails.
First, the wood for the slats from the set is lighter and spotty. And secondly, and most importantly, the structure of the side surfaces is very ugly, which is clearly visible in the bottom photo.
Plus, the slats are cut in a strange way (it would be better if they were cut on a saw), otherwise the fibers remained from boron, which will need to be constantly removed.
But before assembling the deck, you need to understand one of the most important points!
The two inner bands of elings (carlings) run strictly parallel to each other and naturally perpendicular to beams. And they are divided into several groups. For clarity, I marked them with different colors. In front, the blue 4 pairs are parallel in 2 lines. Rear 5 pairs of greens similarly. Well, according to the same principle, 2 pairs of purple and separately in a pair of red.
Why am I all.. It is necessary to place the longitudinal elements so that they are strictly parallel and perpendicular (excluding any diagonals) otherwise the deck will walk back and forth from the foreground and background.
The two side strips run as if in an arc, and beam 88 separates them. In a real ship and anatomy, the longitudinal elements really went along small arcs, but the kit manufacturer simplified this and made the assembly easier by shifting the slots. Since all the elements go perpendicular to the beams but with a slight offset, so that in general it seems that this is an arc, but in fact they hit the steps. I hope I explained it clearly.
Now, chronologically, how I collected everything in order:
First, I fitted the front element of the deck (knee) along the profile so that it sat in place.
Then I created a flat edge of Carlengs. Since they were almost perfectly fitted in length, there were slight irregularities at the end. Therefore, I slightly touched the grinder and pressed the side surface to the disk, creating an even edge. The main thing is not to overdo it, since all this is approximately 0.1 mm no more.
Then on the sandpaper canvas, I polished all 4 surfaces.
I did the same with the sides of the beams.
The upper surface can be polished by sliding rolling motions.
And I polished the bottom surface with sandpaper wrapped on a large cylinder.
Then I clipped the excess at the edges of the beams.
I didn't make any adaptations to accurately calculate the length of the beams, as they should be slightly shorter than where they are, but not much to avoid falling out. And why so - I will tell you below.
Since the length of the carlengs has already been calibrated, part of the holly can be assembled without glue.
I collected naturally inside the hull, but for clarity I showed that the deck can be safely removed without glue and it can stick together.
And here is the build order:
First, I adjusted the front knee, then I adjusted the beams and nearby cardings in groups. And only then the very first carleng. Since the space between beams is more important, and then you can adjust the space between beams and knee.
The second very important point that I have already mentioned is the distance between the beams and the body. It is necessary in order to be able to slightly shift the beams to the right or left, thus it is possible to adjust the evenness of the lines of carleng, which should be strictly parallel.
This is probably the biggest trick in deck assembly. The place in the blue circle will not be visible at all. On the side of the knee, on top of the drainage, and outside the skin. Therefore, a small gap will not be visible, but the ability to move beams is very important for building good geometry. And yet, do not glue everything as you fit. It is better to collect everything without glue and then if it is necessary to edit the geometry, if something has become crooked, otherwise if you glue, it will already be so.
I haven't cut the bottom of the carlengs into the beams and slats into the carlengs yet, that will be later. In the meantime, I like the way it looks and the pace... thought it would be slower...
P.S. Oh yes, in the instructions, or rather, in the drawings of their set, the right and left sides are mixed up. Intuitively, everything is clear, but still - you need not to forget about it. (this concerns the set from AliExpress)
All preparatory moments are over and the upper deck can be assembled. And as always - first a little theory.
Anatomy drawings show how Beams and carlengs should be placed. But it is also clearly visible that some longitudinal slats (which strengthened the deck boards from deflection) of different widths. If you miss the moment of insignificant differences, then in addition to the standard size there are reinforced slats that were thicker. On my scale, it's 1.8 and 3mm respectively. I marked the latter in yellow.
In addition to those places where the slats are smaller in number and made thicker for reinforcement, there are also places where such slats were placed around the hatches or to strengthen vertical elements.
It was simplified in the set, but I decided to add this point. Plus, I decided to completely redo the workpieces for all these rails.
First, the wood for the slats from the set is lighter and spotty. And secondly, and most importantly, the structure of the side surfaces is very ugly, which is clearly visible in the bottom photo.
Plus, the slats are cut in a strange way (it would be better if they were cut on a saw), otherwise the fibers remained from boron, which will need to be constantly removed.
But before assembling the deck, you need to understand one of the most important points!
The two inner bands of elings (carlings) run strictly parallel to each other and naturally perpendicular to beams. And they are divided into several groups. For clarity, I marked them with different colors. In front, the blue 4 pairs are parallel in 2 lines. Rear 5 pairs of greens similarly. Well, according to the same principle, 2 pairs of purple and separately in a pair of red.
Why am I all.. It is necessary to place the longitudinal elements so that they are strictly parallel and perpendicular (excluding any diagonals) otherwise the deck will walk back and forth from the foreground and background.
The two side strips run as if in an arc, and beam 88 separates them. In a real ship and anatomy, the longitudinal elements really went along small arcs, but the kit manufacturer simplified this and made the assembly easier by shifting the slots. Since all the elements go perpendicular to the beams but with a slight offset, so that in general it seems that this is an arc, but in fact they hit the steps. I hope I explained it clearly.
Now, chronologically, how I collected everything in order:
First, I fitted the front element of the deck (knee) along the profile so that it sat in place.
Then I created a flat edge of Carlengs. Since they were almost perfectly fitted in length, there were slight irregularities at the end. Therefore, I slightly touched the grinder and pressed the side surface to the disk, creating an even edge. The main thing is not to overdo it, since all this is approximately 0.1 mm no more.
Then on the sandpaper canvas, I polished all 4 surfaces.
I did the same with the sides of the beams.
The upper surface can be polished by sliding rolling motions.
And I polished the bottom surface with sandpaper wrapped on a large cylinder.
Then I clipped the excess at the edges of the beams.
I didn't make any adaptations to accurately calculate the length of the beams, as they should be slightly shorter than where they are, but not much to avoid falling out. And why so - I will tell you below.
Since the length of the carlengs has already been calibrated, part of the holly can be assembled without glue.
I collected naturally inside the hull, but for clarity I showed that the deck can be safely removed without glue and it can stick together.
And here is the build order:
First, I adjusted the front knee, then I adjusted the beams and nearby cardings in groups. And only then the very first carleng. Since the space between beams is more important, and then you can adjust the space between beams and knee.
The second very important point that I have already mentioned is the distance between the beams and the body. It is necessary in order to be able to slightly shift the beams to the right or left, thus it is possible to adjust the evenness of the lines of carleng, which should be strictly parallel.
This is probably the biggest trick in deck assembly. The place in the blue circle will not be visible at all. On the side of the knee, on top of the drainage, and outside the skin. Therefore, a small gap will not be visible, but the ability to move beams is very important for building good geometry. And yet, do not glue everything as you fit. It is better to collect everything without glue and then if it is necessary to edit the geometry, if something has become crooked, otherwise if you glue, it will already be so.
I haven't cut the bottom of the carlengs into the beams and slats into the carlengs yet, that will be later. In the meantime, I like the way it looks and the pace... thought it would be slower...
P.S. Oh yes, in the instructions, or rather, in the drawings of their set, the right and left sides are mixed up. Intuitively, everything is clear, but still - you need not to forget about it. (this concerns the set from AliExpress)
Nicely documented and executed, Sergey. Chapeaux!
Regards, Peter
Thank you, I think it will be even more interesting further on
