Yes, you are right, but if you calculate everything correctly, then the anatomical version is not so difficult. I will try and will definitely show the result.
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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
Keel for the second hull, version No. 2.
All mistakes were taken into account and their own advice was applied... and here is the result, or rather the build process of the second version.
At first, everything is practically as in the first versions, but we cut it off only from a small part.
Then, in the same detail, I cut off the excess and scribbled a contour on the second detail with a finished profile...
Well, then cut out everything superfluous from this detail. Here the principle is simple, we prepare one part, we make a second one according to it, and the only visual connection will be the contour that we scribbled, so I made sampling (4) in excess, without bothering, because all the voids will be occupied by glue.
The main thing is to set everything straight. And do not cut everything along the contour until all the details are adjusted.
And here is the result after drilling holes from both sides! To perfectly achieve the correct arrangement of holes on both sides (if there is no vertical drilling device). That is, I drilled holes in a pattern on each side and inserted wire there on each side and glued CA gel over it. (shown above). And after grinding, I really liked the result.
I also liked the right lock. And as I expected, it was not difficult to manufacture.
I get straight high from this lock.
Well, this is a sample of the top of the keel (stem). I wanted to design it in the color scheme of the entire case. And I also really liked the result and I will do the same to the original.
(the sample was hastily made and covered with tung oil to see mostly the color and arrangement of the lines.)
I think one more day and I will finish the final version of the keel (second), which looks much better than the first (and the option from the set too!).
P.S. I really like the color scheme (yellow, blue)... just like the colors of my country's flag.
All mistakes were taken into account and their own advice was applied... and here is the result, or rather the build process of the second version.
At first, everything is practically as in the first versions, but we cut it off only from a small part.
Then, in the same detail, I cut off the excess and scribbled a contour on the second detail with a finished profile...
Well, then cut out everything superfluous from this detail. Here the principle is simple, we prepare one part, we make a second one according to it, and the only visual connection will be the contour that we scribbled, so I made sampling (4) in excess, without bothering, because all the voids will be occupied by glue.
The main thing is to set everything straight. And do not cut everything along the contour until all the details are adjusted.
And here is the result after drilling holes from both sides! To perfectly achieve the correct arrangement of holes on both sides (if there is no vertical drilling device). That is, I drilled holes in a pattern on each side and inserted wire there on each side and glued CA gel over it. (shown above). And after grinding, I really liked the result.
I also liked the right lock. And as I expected, it was not difficult to manufacture.
I get straight high from this lock.
Well, this is a sample of the top of the keel (stem). I wanted to design it in the color scheme of the entire case. And I also really liked the result and I will do the same to the original.
(the sample was hastily made and covered with tung oil to see mostly the color and arrangement of the lines.)
I think one more day and I will finish the final version of the keel (second), which looks much better than the first (and the option from the set too!).
P.S. I really like the color scheme (yellow, blue)... just like the colors of my country's flag.
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Slava Ukraini
Thank you, Günther, very nice. By the way, if you accidentally missed it, then I share photos from the museum in Greenwich at this link to GoogleDrive, There are 470 photos of models, which I liked the most. And also, in these branches I posted photos from the championships, which were held in Kyiv.Hey Sergey,
As always, incredibly impressive. I'm always impressed by your work. Many thanks for showing the beautiful model ships. Really great.
Best regards
Günther
IV Open Cup of Kyiv 2013
This was a long time ago... Even before the war. When the strongest gathered in Kyiv and competed shoulder to shoulder... But such photos should not just be stored on my disk and on my website. So, I decided to share them with the SoS community. I took all the photos myself. There are 13...
shipsofscale.com
V Open Cup of Kyiv 2014
This championship was more modest than in 2013, but there were reasons for that. However, this does not diminish the beauty of the models that were presented there; there were simply significantly fewer of them. 1/9 I'll start with the legend, Evgeny Epur. He was both a participant and a judge...
shipsofscale.com
Have fun.
Hello Sergey,
I just had the pleasure of revisiting your posts of the IV & V Open Cups again. It is always a great treat to see such great master builders work.
Thanks again.
Bill
I just had the pleasure of revisiting your posts of the IV & V Open Cups again. It is always a great treat to see such great master builders work.
Thanks again.
Bill
I continue with the keel...
By colors: black hornbeam - boxwood - blue hornbeam - light pear.
In order not to make a complex connection, I made one part and then scribbled a seam between them through a template.
And here's the result:
Since there will be a fragile connection along the waterline, I decided to strengthen it with metal nails and glued it to the CA gel.
I remind you that the skin will be made of dark and light pear along the waterline, like the keel.
And a couple of close-ups...
It remains to make bolts at the end and holes for rigging and you can glue the keel to the body... finally.
By colors: black hornbeam - boxwood - blue hornbeam - light pear.
In order not to make a complex connection, I made one part and then scribbled a seam between them through a template.
And here's the result:
Since there will be a fragile connection along the waterline, I decided to strengthen it with metal nails and glued it to the CA gel.
I remind you that the skin will be made of dark and light pear along the waterline, like the keel.
And a couple of close-ups...
It remains to make bolts at the end and holes for rigging and you can glue the keel to the body... finally.
Today is a small anniversary... exactly 100 days of work on this project. Let me remind you, I started it in January of this year.
And today I finished the keel for the second hull. And in order: drilled 0.55 mm holes...
... inserted 0.5 mm brass wire from them...
... sealed CA with gel...
... and ground on an angle grinder.
Then he made Latin numbers. I have already described this process earlier with the first keel on the first case. First marked, drew and cut with a scalpel, but straight, as if pressing and not scratching.
Cut the keel along the length...
... and drilled holes for rigging with a diameter of 1 mm.
Now the keel is ready and tomorrow according to the plan to glue it to the second hull... well, can I start sheathing the hull with boards... I can't wait and imagine how difficult it will be, given that the skin is two-tone and not yet butt and overlapping...
And today I finished the keel for the second hull. And in order: drilled 0.55 mm holes...
... inserted 0.5 mm brass wire from them...
... sealed CA with gel...
... and ground on an angle grinder.
Then he made Latin numbers. I have already described this process earlier with the first keel on the first case. First marked, drew and cut with a scalpel, but straight, as if pressing and not scratching.
Cut the keel along the length...
... and drilled holes for rigging with a diameter of 1 mm.
Now the keel is ready and tomorrow according to the plan to glue it to the second hull... well, can I start sheathing the hull with boards... I can't wait and imagine how difficult it will be, given that the skin is two-tone and not yet butt and overlapping...
Hello Sergey. Very nice small detail.
Bill
Bill
I have videos of these competitions, but unfortunately the quality is very poor, the photos are much better. If I filmed them now, I would see - it would be a masterpiece, but 10 years ago there was no normal technology or stabilization.
Thank you
With the experience of the 1st this must have been a bit easier, Sergey. Again a nice fit and details. Hope to see soon a comparison.Today is a small anniversary... exactly 100 days of work on this project. Let me remind you, I started it in January of this year.
And today I finished the keel for the second hull. And in order: drilled 0.55 mm holes...
View attachment 535373
... inserted 0.5 mm brass wire from them...
View attachment 535374
... sealed CA with gel...
View attachment 535375
... and ground on an angle grinder.
View attachment 535376
View attachment 535377
Then he made Latin numbers. I have already described this process earlier with the first keel on the first case. First marked, drew and cut with a scalpel, but straight, as if pressing and not scratching.
View attachment 535378
View attachment 535379
Cut the keel along the length...
View attachment 535381
... and drilled holes for rigging with a diameter of 1 mm.
View attachment 535382
Now the keel is ready and tomorrow according to the plan to glue it to the second hull... well, can I start sheathing the hull with boards... I can't wait and imagine how difficult it will be, given that the skin is two-tone and not yet butt and overlapping...
Regards, Peter
I often receive questions in private messages and would like to answer a frequently asked question. By the way, you can safely ask questions in my threads and I will try to answer them.
I use these 3 glues 90% of the time. For regular gluing, I use PVA Titebond II for wood. It glues in 5 minutes with good compression. But you need to know how to use it, since its speed is also its occasional inconvenience, but mostly it is a huge plus. The main thing is to remove the excess, otherwise it will affect the oil coating and appearance. But if you need to peel something off using the heating method, it is better to use regular office PVA.
If you need to glue something using the reinforcement principle, I use Akfix gel 705 with an activator.
For capillary gluing and rigging, I use Cosmo CA 500.200 while it is very liquid and this is important for capillarity and rigging, so that there is no shine on the threads. If it starts to thicken (becomes viscous and not flowable at all), I take a new one and use this one for other needs.
I use these 3 glues 90% of the time. For regular gluing, I use PVA Titebond II for wood. It glues in 5 minutes with good compression. But you need to know how to use it, since its speed is also its occasional inconvenience, but mostly it is a huge plus. The main thing is to remove the excess, otherwise it will affect the oil coating and appearance. But if you need to peel something off using the heating method, it is better to use regular office PVA.
If you need to glue something using the reinforcement principle, I use Akfix gel 705 with an activator.
For capillary gluing and rigging, I use Cosmo CA 500.200 while it is very liquid and this is important for capillarity and rigging, so that there is no shine on the threads. If it starts to thicken (becomes viscous and not flowable at all), I take a new one and use this one for other needs.
I can say this is the third attempt and I liked it the most. Thank you, I really want to see the keel in its rightful place.
Hello,
This question has also been on my mind
The excess glue is removed with water or do you need a special cleaner?
1. Tidebond ?
2.Akfix
3.Ca500?
Greetings
This question has also been on my mind
The excess glue is removed with water or do you need a special cleaner?
1. Tidebond ?
2.Akfix
3.Ca500?
Greetings
Last edited:
Cleaning the glue is a very important point and a very good question for you!
I don't use water, it raises the pile.
1a. Any regular PVA is better to remove immediately with a metal spatula (looks like a flat screwdriver) the width of the planes is ±5 mm.
1b. It is better not to smear or wipe off Titebond immediately, but wait a little, but not for long. It will harden a little to a rubbery state and then it will be easy to remove in one piece. BUT it is important not to forget, otherwise it will be impossible to remove it later. If you rub it on wood, it covers it with a thin layer and this will be noticeable visually and this worsens the penetration of oil. But if the surface is sanded, then everything is ok.
2. Akfix, if activated with a spray, is almost impossible to remove. Maybe with some means for this. Although it does not glue as strongly if you apply it pointwise. I use it if you need to grab something and then tear it off when the part is no longer needed. As a temporary solution. But the fixation should be point-like, even if it is a large drop.
3. Cosmo is very fluid and if it glues a tightly joined surface, it is impossible to unstick them. The capillary connection is strong...
The best way to remove excess CA (liquid and gel) is to scrape it off with a straight scalper (looks like a spatula). This removes the stain perfectly, but it is important to do it carefully.
... but PVA is still the best for wood because of its reversibility. That is, if you glued something and then realized that you need to remove it - you just need to heat it up and the glue will stop holding. Then you can even slightly correct the gluing place and heat it up again (iron) and after cooling, the glue will glue this place.
I hope the Translator translated everything correctly)))
Some really good information about your experience with the various glues, thanks.