Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Great work overall. Glad to see you are making use of time in isolation.
HMS ALERT 1777 cutter POF by shota70 [COMPLETED BUILD]
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thanks, Dear Kurt
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Dear Shota. I am very happy that your isolation is almost finished from a health standpoint, but not so glad that it means less shipbuilding . I am in the same position. I have the time now to get a lot of work completed, but in just less than a month, it's also back to work for me.
. I am in the same position. I have the time now to get a lot of work completed, but in just less than a month, it's also back to work for me.
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Hello dear friends
For the past three days I have been working on preparing frames 22-19 , with 21-22 being connected frames.
Since the workflow is the same as the three frames that preceded it I will not expand on the workflow, I will let the images speak for themselves.
Wishing us all a continued and enjoyable weekend
For the past three days I have been working on preparing frames 22-19 , with 21-22 being connected frames.
Since the workflow is the same as the three frames that preceded it I will not expand on the workflow, I will let the images speak for themselves.
Wishing us all a continued and enjoyable weekend
- Joined
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- 5,742
- Points
- 738
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2020
- Messages
- 5,742
- Points
- 738
thanks for your compliments, Dear friend
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Hello dear friends
I have not touched the ship in the last few days, Because I thought of regular work.
The laughter of fate that I returned to work on today because I am again disabled from work because my back was caught.
I appeal to you, to accept your reference to the following subject.
On the advice of a dear friend in the field I bought a 5 minute epoxy glue.
The friend explained that after the glue/poxy dries and polishes, it also produces a dark / blackish shade.
I attach pictures of the results of the experiment I did the first without black pigment.
and in the second I took the glued boards I divided into two and glued with the epoxy mixed with black pigment.
You can see in the last picture you will see on the right the paste without the pigment and in the middle with the pigment, it seems to me that it is still worth using the pigment.
I would love to hear your opinion.
thanks shota
I have not touched the ship in the last few days, Because I thought of regular work.
The laughter of fate that I returned to work on today because I am again disabled from work because my back was caught.
I appeal to you, to accept your reference to the following subject.
On the advice of a dear friend in the field I bought a 5 minute epoxy glue.
The friend explained that after the glue/poxy dries and polishes, it also produces a dark / blackish shade.
I attach pictures of the results of the experiment I did the first without black pigment.
and in the second I took the glued boards I divided into two and glued with the epoxy mixed with black pigment.
You can see in the last picture you will see on the right the paste without the pigment and in the middle with the pigment, it seems to me that it is still worth using the pigment.
I would love to hear your opinion.
thanks shota
Shota, I used epoxy frequently in the past. I like Z-poxy brand.
5 minute can be tough to work with for larger jobs, it sets up fairly quickly. I would use longer setting epoxy (20 or 30 minute) when I needed more time.
I have thinned epoxy with denatured alcohol when it was too thick. If you do this be sure to do a test piece first to insure the epoxy sets correctly at the ratio you wish to use. Denatured alcohol also works good for cleanup.
To answer your question I like the tinted, perhaps even a bit darker.
Glenn
5 minute can be tough to work with for larger jobs, it sets up fairly quickly. I would use longer setting epoxy (20 or 30 minute) when I needed more time.
I have thinned epoxy with denatured alcohol when it was too thick. If you do this be sure to do a test piece first to insure the epoxy sets correctly at the ratio you wish to use. Denatured alcohol also works good for cleanup.
To answer your question I like the tinted, perhaps even a bit darker.
Glenn
Nice progress on the frames!
I'm sure there a is a specific reason why You would like to use epoxy.
I always find it very messy to work with. Couldn't You just use white glue tinted with black pigments? I'm sure someone on the forum did that, can't remember who it was though...
I'm sure there a is a specific reason why You would like to use epoxy.
I always find it very messy to work with. Couldn't You just use white glue tinted with black pigments? I'm sure someone on the forum did that, can't remember who it was though...
I can fully agree with Dan @DST07 For some reason, epoxy\zpoxy and any other poxy doesn't work for me. I found it very messy as well. The tools accidentally touched while mixing the glue get sticky and tough to clean completely. Oh...and the smell of it is...ouch... bad. I use it on very rare occasions, where other glues don't work.
Technically speaking, and this is my subjective opinion, any wood-to-wood joints should be glued with wood glue. Today, we have a plethora of brand names and their wood glues to choose from. But my experience told me that a regular PVA-based glue would do a decent job gluing together wood pieces. Obviously, you can go the extra mile and research types of glue for different woodworking jobs, but you would be surprised, that a simple Elmer's white\shcool glue will do the job just as good as specific wood glue.
Maarten @Maarten uses the mix of wood glue with I believe the black ecoline (Indian ink) to make the 'black' effect on joints.
Technically speaking, and this is my subjective opinion, any wood-to-wood joints should be glued with wood glue. Today, we have a plethora of brand names and their wood glues to choose from. But my experience told me that a regular PVA-based glue would do a decent job gluing together wood pieces. Obviously, you can go the extra mile and research types of glue for different woodworking jobs, but you would be surprised, that a simple Elmer's white\shcool glue will do the job just as good as specific wood glue.
Maarten @Maarten uses the mix of wood glue with I believe the black ecoline (Indian ink) to make the 'black' effect on joints.
Right @Jim @Maarten Uses glue which he colors with Indian ink. I also used it partially on the lugger, but the glue sets quite quickly, it works better with black stain, I got the best results with a black marker (edding). However, the colored edge must be very smooth, otherwise it will bleed too much into the wood.
Image 1 with colored glue.
Image 2 with markers.
Image 3 bled into the wood
Image 1 with colored glue.
Image 2 with markers.
Image 3 bled into the wood
One of the reasons I use soft (2B) pencil is to have black edges is so it doesn't bleed into wood. Another and a bit more advanced method, specifically used on decks, is black paper! Yes, you hear it right, very good results! However, you need to find thin paper so it will fit on your scale.
Another advantage of wood glue would be the fact that you can always (to some extent) undo the joint if you made a mistake.
Of course only non water resistant glue.
I used the method with the black paper on my still unfinished Cruiser deck. It gives a very sharp edge/contrast. Maybe not everbody's taste and maybe out of scale (1/64):
Here you can see the paper on the cutouts for the gratings:
On joints like the keel for example this wouldn't work too well because you are glueing wood / paper / wood. So in fact the only thing holding the two pieces together will be the paper itself...
Of course only non water resistant glue.
I used the method with the black paper on my still unfinished Cruiser deck. It gives a very sharp edge/contrast. Maybe not everbody's taste and maybe out of scale (1/64):
Here you can see the paper on the cutouts for the gratings:
On joints like the keel for example this wouldn't work too well because you are glueing wood / paper / wood. So in fact the only thing holding the two pieces together will be the paper itself...
Excellent caulking on the deck, Dan, very clean and accurate work!
A word of caution, why would the keel joint require caulking? Remember, we are using all those 'Blakening' techniques to represent caulking imitation. The keel structure doesn't require caulking. But I do understand your idea. In your suggestion, you trying to represent individual timber making up the keel\deadwood structure. Correct? In such cases, I would use very light pencil marks (BH, or H) hardeness. But this is subjectively for my taste. 
Right, thanks for making this point clear. As a means of "visually seperating" the individual timbers on the keel, stem, deadwood etc. the paper method would also be too time consuming. So
for the pencil method
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Great photos of your work in progress. She is coming along nicely, a testament to your modeling ability.