HMS Alert by DST

Thank You all.
I did use the template but I cannot lower the sternpost. It sits already snug in template.
But I went through several build logs and found a pic from Maartens log which could help, if I may post it here for clarification?
The red arrow is the area where I think would have to be removed. Here on Maartens Stern it is flat:
View attachment 292632

On the CNC cut part 19 the top is milled halfway down, but I do not understand what the purpose of that could be?! I'm confused...
The red arrow shows the same location on my part 19. Eiter part 19 is wrongly milled or the template has to be cut out to make way for this extra wood on top?! Or I'm missing something completely :confused:
View attachment 292633
Good afternoon Summer time from how the assembly is, piece number 19 is badly cut, in my opinion you should send the anomalous piece but if I find other anomalies I would return the kit to the one thing for sure if you start doing the recovery You have to equip yourself well
 
There's still everything ahead.
For example, parts 53-1 have three pieces cut out, and parts 55-1, one piece is cut out, and two pieces should be cut out.
Part 63-3 is cut out incorrectly and you will have to make a new one manually from the remains of the board with details.
The wood of the kit is so layered and over-dried that some parts of the frames simply crumble in your hands without any pressure. I glue them back together with cyanacrylate. Many of the sharp ends of the frame parts are already broken when cutting out the frames.
I started the assembly with a cylindrical insert and suspect that there are still a lot of mistakes ahead. Considering that this is already the third edition of the model, it becomes very regrettable and insulting from the mistakes made by the developer
Sorry for the trouble, Keyfolog. Many of us building or already built this kit have a great time. Some of the mismatches present on the kit can be easily corrected. There is no single kit without some kind of flaws. Personally, I think such challenges make this\or other kits more interesting. On another hand, if you have broken parts delivered, please contact Trident for replacements. I am sure, they will do due diligence replacing. Did you have a chance to read our group build notes\logs? it has wealth of information and discussion about challanges.


About a total of 80 people bougt the kit. I think they are happy, but we do have fewest reports about some sort of challanges.
 
Sorry for the trouble, Keyfolog. Many of us building or already built this kit have a great time. Some of the mismatches present on the kit can be easily corrected. There is no single kit without some kind of flaws. Personally, I think such challenges make this\or other kits more interesting. On another hand, if you have broken parts delivered, please contact Trident for replacements. I am sure, they will do due diligence replacing. Did you have a chance to read our group build notes\logs? it has wealth of information and discussion about challanges.


About a total of 80 people bougt the kit. I think they are happy, but we do have fewest reports about some sort of challanges.
Hi Jim, fully agree with you. I am building the kit which is nearing completion. Sofar so good, yes here and there a view errors but that is nearly impossible to avoid in something so complex as a POF kit.
 
Thank You all for the motivating words. I am aware that pieces need trimming, adjusting and sanding. That is not the problem...

The part is simply cut too short. So I had to add a piece wich now looks like it doesn't really belong there. But anyway, I have continued... trying to regain motivation because the finished models of the members do look too good to give it up


20220818_145647.jpg
 
If you shorten the width of the small filling wood in the same width like the deawood and not the keel - than it will be less visible
and this small problem should never reduce the motivation - the original shipwrights made more "mistakes"

another solution would be to install some rows of planking to cover - maybe only partly over the deadwood
20220818_145647.jpg
 
Thank You @Uwek, Your tip lead me to verify the plans as I forgot that the rabbet has to be extended to the sternpost, so:

20220819_170134.jpg

Problem solved
The keel and rising wood are glued up and resting in the template to dry.

20220819_182602.jpg

20220819_182604.jpg

I still haven't figured out what to do with the template CL54. No word about it in the "instructions" (page 5).

20220819_182318.jpg.
 
OK, after reading to page 8 I found it
The template is for the correct positioning of the stem rising wood. So far so good.

Next question: Where did You find a template for shaping the rising wood pieces (BL33 and BL34)? Did You eyeball it or do I have to assemble the cant frames first to establish the correct angle?

Or is it simply filed from "one edge to the other" like this:

20220819_201930.jpg

20220819_201936.jpg
 
I went trough several build logs and I think I can make out the shape of the rising wood pieces. Before sanding I would be happy if someone could confirm that I have to shape them from one edge to the other?

For now I cleaned and sanded the keel assembly

20220820_175938.jpg

20220820_182226.jpg

20220820_182246.jpg

Now I am stuck again with the wing transom... the template is shorter than the cnc cut part:
20220820_184439.jpg

Do I only have to sand the hatched surface of the template or all the way to the edge, like this:

20220820_184947.jpg

‍ confused
 
I went trough several build logs and I think I can make out the shape of the rising wood pieces. Before sanding I would be happy if someone could confirm that I have to shape them from one edge to the other?

For now I cleaned and sanded the keel assembly

View attachment 324451

View attachment 324452

View attachment 324453

Now I am stuck again with the wing transom... the template is shorter than the cnc cut part:
View attachment 324454

Do I only have to sand the hatched surface of the template or all the way to the edge, like this:

View attachment 324455

‍ confused
I recommend you to use Maarten's build diary https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/hms-alert-by-maarten.6097/page-2
you can find explanation for your Question in post number #23
 
I went trough several build logs and I think I can make out the shape of the rising wood pieces. Before sanding I would be happy if someone could confirm that I have to shape them from one edge to the other?

For now I cleaned and sanded the keel assembly

View attachment 324451

View attachment 324452

View attachment 324453

Now I am stuck again with the wing transom... the template is shorter than the cnc cut part:
View attachment 324454

Do I only have to sand the hatched surface of the template or all the way to the edge, like this:

View attachment 324455

‍ confused
You only sand the hatched surface.
The remaining part will be trimmed in a later stage of the build.
 
Thank You for all the tips. I think I got it :D

20220823_195033.jpg

20220823_195059.jpg

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I only realised now that the templates are cut from self adhesive paper. Just imagine my face after glueing the ones for the rising wood parts directly on the wood o_O

20220823_205904.jpg

And on to shaping the bollard timber... first test fitting to understand the shape:

20220823_211759.jpg

First I am carving away most of the waste leaving enough to be sanded close to template line later:

20220823_212059.jpg

I followed the line exactly resulting in a sort of concave surface on the bottom. Have to go through the other build logs again to see how others have done it...

20220823_213415.jpg
 
Bollard timbers are shaped and the fit to the rising wood is quite good.

20220824_201706.jpg

The gaps should close up once the pieces are glued in place...

20220824_210217.jpg

Shaping and testfitting the wing transom:

20220824_213301.jpg

And testing the fit in the berth. I had to sand some notches a little and now the keels sits tightly and doesn't move at all :cool:

20220824_213535.jpg

20220824_213545.jpg
 
Small disaster... after glueing the rising wood parts to the keel I realised that one side was sitting too high. While clamping the part did slide upwards by 1 mm or so. To avoid having problems later, which would surely would have been the case, I had to dismount it again Sick

So on to soaking the joint:

20220825_174407.jpg

Slowly wedging in with a razor blade, soaking, waiting, inserting the blade ....and, repeat like a 100 times

20220825_175258.jpg

This took a long time, maybe around 1/2 hour or at least it felt that long... but we are not in a hurry and I was distracted listening
to the treasure island audiobook :cool:

Then I had to clean this mess up:

20220825_180408.jpg

Reglueing, this time I added two clamps on top to prevent sliding:

20220825_181828.jpg

And glueing the bollard timbers:

20220825_182646.jpg

Repaired.

20220825_182756.jpg

Next on to the hawse pieces and the first cant frames...
Thank You for Your interest.
 
Small disaster... after glueing the rising wood parts to the keel I realised that one side was sitting too high. While clamping the part did slide upwards by 1 mm or so. To avoid having problems later, which would surely would have been the case, I had to dismount it again Sick

So on to soaking the joint:

View attachment 325424

Slowly wedging in with a razor blade, soaking, waiting, inserting the blade ....and, repeat like a 100 times

View attachment 325425

This took a long time, maybe around 1/2 hour or at least it felt that long... but we are not in a hurry and I was distracted listening
to the treasure island audiobook :cool:

Then I had to clean this mess up:

View attachment 325426

Reglueing, this time I added two clamps on top to prevent sliding:

View attachment 325427

And glueing the bollard timbers:

View attachment 325428

Repaired.

View attachment 325429

Next on to the hawse pieces and the first cant frames...
Thank You for Your interest.
Good to use water based wood glue - such problems can be solved relatively easy with some drops of water and patience
Very good that you corrected the error
 
You're right. Had the same trouble with the cross section but as You said, it can be easily repaired... with patience

The keel is ready for the first timbers of the stem:

20220826_181121.jpg

20220826_181143.jpg

20220826_181244.jpg

This is not easy...

20220826_190830.jpg

Still trying to close the gap as much as possible. Shaping, test fitting, reshaping and testing again and again... it is a slow process but we have time, don't we?
I have to cut the bottom part of the bollard timbers. I must have left too much meat

20220826_191713.jpg
 
Continuing to shape the hawse pieces. i have to repeat myself: this is really not easy.
The first cant frame (AL4) is installed and I managed to close the gap to the bollard timbers to a point where I can live with.
Shaping the hawse pieces to match the side of AL4 is even harder.

If I try to squeeze it in the notch on the lower positioning "wing" it gets stuck and I would have to remove material on the wrong side the hawse piece (AL2)

20220826_195609.jpg

While pushing it down to the AL4 part I have to sit it on top of the "pin".

20220826_195430.jpg

Here is a view from the outside, You can see it sitting on the pin:

20220826_195637.jpg

So I had to cut the pin of the lower template to get it in there. Also I had to take off a little more material to adjust the angle, that's why AL 2 is sitting a little low in the upper notches. Should be OK though once I get to fairing the hull:

20220826_202519.jpg
 
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