HMS Alert SOS Edition by PaulV

zoly99sask

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Where did you buy the kit? I am foaming at the mouth to do this one!
 
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Hi Lusitania, not sure what I will do. The ribs hold up well. If I do it will be very small pinning ( .5MM DRILL ?) . I've not decided yet. As there is a long way to go, its not a decision I need to make now. I've seen photos on the china site with brass wire and black nylon fishing line. It looks cool. I might try on some spare timber. There is plenty left for trying that sort of thing and do a visual comparison next to stb rib.
 

Uwek

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And away we go again with Ribs ( Frames 5-16). This is the last of the Bow frames and the last of the forward portion single frames. This is very easy and a bit like Lego!. BTW I have solved the banding. Next video will be banding free YEAH!
You are a fast worker ..... Thumbsup I could not do modeling and talking with video - I guess I would say too often "sh...."
Looking at the last video, I saw, that you fix the frames with wood glue towards the jig. I am not sure later on, if there is maybe several disadvantages when you want to remove the completed hull out of the jig, also you will have maybe glue rests between the frames etc, which will be hard to clean.
So, based on my personal and subjective experience - I would not glue them
You could turn in some small screws on top of the jig (one screw per frame) as the counterpart to the frame head, with rope or rubber-band slightly under tension between screw head and frame head.
When you remove the finished hull, you have only to cut the ropes
 
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In the words of Samual L Jackson wallet quote from pulp fiction, I royally screwed up the positioning of the stern frame ladder. To high at part 71, which throws out all the ribs 70 ,69 etc etc etc so I have had to remove both to reposition. Having to do that in the frame was FUN, NOT!.

One came off with no issue with the no 11 . The other did not, so I am having to fix it!. A Gotcha. Grr,,, Mumble Mumble.. be back less hair soon. Yeah for std PVA.

I have also gone for .1mm tipped black ink pen for the first 16( 7-16) ribs for internal bolts marking. Dont want to risk integrity pre cross supports( also did not have any fishing line and still locked down in Vic AUS,...). WIll consider re visiting when we get to external and push through from the outside, with hot knife cut.
 
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Re the glueing of the top of the rib to the cradle......Could that hold the structure a little firmer when cutting the ribs to size as per the template ...It may save a bit of "thrashing around ".I believe that the portion of the cradle securing the lower assemblies including the keel could still be removed at will.
 
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It does make them at lot sturdier where there are single entry frames. I suspect when it comes to the full ribs it may be less of an issue. I agree about the cutting process it would help. Apart from my fk up with the stern (now fixed) I can see nowhere that the top would need removing prior to the rib cuts.

I did try no 11 insertion and the Selleys/ Bunnings band PVA wood glue / MDF como cuts away cleanly from the frame no issue.( good old Sucktrally sound MDF) Not sure about stronger glue.
 
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Hi Paul,
I have used Titebond in the past ..really good, but have on this occasion have used the Gorilla brand PVA.. so far so good..I will admit that I have used super glue in some situations. Now there will be some that will get "the vapours" when I say that I have used a combo of PVA and superglue!!!Another thing I have observed is that the moisture content of PVA seems to assist the superglue .. (For superglue plse read CA glue)
I am not an industrial scientist so I may indeed be talking nonesense, but I can only report on my experiences.
BTW I am still having a heap of enjoyment from this project...Sometimes a challenge but always rewarding..
Cheers, Danielw
 

Jimsky

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It does make them at lot sturdier where there are single entry frames. I suspect when it comes to the full ribs it may be less of an issue. I agree about the cutting process it would help. Apart from my fk up with the stern (now fixed) I can see nowhere that the top would need removing prior to the rib cuts.

I did try no 11 insertion and the Selleys/ Bunnings band PVA wood glue / MDF como cuts away cleanly from the frame no issue.( good old Sucktrally sound MDF) Not sure about stronger glue.
Great to know that Paul that you were able to fix! Personally, I know how frustrated it could be...I use Elmer's Max glue for framing assembly and happy. I was able to test the stronghold: One of the floor timbers (frame 55) was wrong for that frame, and when I dry-fitted it broke...but chocks were in place. When I try to remove chocks from broken pieces - no avail, I took from spare... Trident Studion supplied spare chocks. (very nice).
BTW...I made the floor timber for frame 55 brand new (from Pearwood). I don't want to spam your build log, will show in mine...
 
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Tks Uwe, but the kit instructions asks to glue them at the top. As it is thin mDF and only the top edge is glued it comes away easily. I will see how the rest of the frames go.
Just an idea: If there is room enough I think a piece of paper between the 2 parts can ensure it is easy to take apart. A thin layer of paper will be left on the frames but can easily be sanded away
 

Jimsky

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Just an idea: If there is room enough I think a piece of paper between the 2 parts can ensure it is easy to take apart. A thin layer of paper will be left on the frames but can easily be sanded away
Hello, Poul. There should be room for a piece of paper if you sand (a bit ) the top of the frame. But...I think the top can be easily glued without it. I don't foresee the need to remove the entire assembly from the berth until you have to cut the frames, but this is just my observation.
 
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Tks Guys, BTW wait till you get the stern build portion. WTF RTFM Very very fiddley if you follow the book. LOTS & lots of prefit & sanding ( sorry polish). I think I've found an easier step process, but till I finish adjusting and all the fk I dropped it in the berth AGAIN syndrome fk fk fk!!! Bugger Bum Sh_t FK! I'll reserve my next video ( by the weekend done i hope)

It will show the awww that was realy easy & simple, I can do that version ;)( HA HA HA... Snigger snigger snigger, Muh Huh Harrr..)
 
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Paul, Re the stern sections.. I told ya so..;). I don't know what the Elmer's glue is that Jimsky uses.. If it is a PVA then Isopropyl Alcohol will soften the PVA allowing the joint to be disassembled. If it is a CA(super glue) derivative then Acetone will do the same.
 
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Elmers is just a brand of strong PVA wood glue with a slight yellow occre tinge like liquid nails.I Bunings used to stock, but they have a Gorilla wood glue that is similar. Most of the Exterior wood glues are like that. I always used the Cheap interior dry clear Selleys Aquadhere. or for Matt Dry Modpodge ( from Spotlight craft section) as a sealer.
 
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2 THINGS GUYS HAVE SAID IT SO MANY TIMES IT IS GETTING OLD KEEP FIXING BREAKING PARTS SPENDING TIME OR DO 2 THINGS, ONE ON ANY TYPE OF GLUE PVA, OR CA, OR NO MATTER HOW LONG USE NAIL POLIS REMOVER MUST BE 100% ACATON CAREEFULL BRUSH ON THE JOIN START PRYING SLOWLY IT WILL COME APART WITH NO DAMAGE NO GLUE RESIDUE, 2 USE WELL BOND GLUE IT IS A PVA, USE 99% RUBBING ALCHOL, IN A SHORT TIME YOU CAN TAKE IT APART, THE END. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 

Jimsky

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Paul, Re the stern sections.. I told ya so..;). I don't know what the Elmer's glue is that Jimsky uses.. If it is a PVA then Isopropyl Alcohol will soften the PVA allowing the joint to be disassembled. If it is a CA(super glue) derivative then Acetone will do the same.
Hello Dan,
I am using Elmer's Wood glue MAX. It based PVA for sure and holds very strong. It dryes clear.

1600998909141.png

Very happy with it.
 
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