HMS Alert SOS Edition by PaulV

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Copper hair black liquor in the hardware store should have sold, it is mainly used for copper surface oxidation and the black, when use generally need to dilute.

Here are several hair black liquor formula, due to various chemicals has certain corrosion resistance and danger, do not recommend everyone make myself, just for your reference and understanding.

Copper sulfate, 4 ~ 8 g/L selenium dioxide 4 ~ 8 g/L phosphate 7 ~ 15 g/L nitrate 2 ~ 4 g/L citrate 2 ~ 4 g/L stabilizer 20 ml/L pH 2.0 ~ 2.5 time 3 ~ 5 min
Formula 2: copper sulfate, 1 ~ 3 g/L selenite 2 ~ 3 g/L 2 ~ 4 g/L of organic acid phosphate 1.0 ~ 1.5 g/L sodium dodecyl sulfate is 0.1 ~ 0.3 g/L composite additive 10 ~ 15 g/L pH 2 ~ 3 time of 2 ~ 6 min
Formula 3: copper sulfate 3 ~ 7 g/L nickel sulfate 2 ~ 3 g/L ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid disodium 4 ~ 5 g/L selenite 4 ~ 5 g/L phosphate 2.0 ~ 3.0 g/L pH 2.0 ~ 3.0 time of 30 ~ 60 s
Formula 4 copper sulfate, nickel sulfate 1 g / 4 g/L L selenite 4 g/L zinc dihydrogen phosphate 2 g/L boric acid 4 g/L DPE - Ⅲ 1 ~ 2 ml/L pH 2.5 ~ 3.5 times 10 to 60 s
 

Maarten

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Hi Paul,

See scans attached, hope the trident files are better, but at least some back ups if needed.
These etchings are double layered so I scanned both sides.
 

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Tks Wang, the product I use is a product called '1604568352140.png
The product is regularly used to blacken brass, copper, pewter to a dark gray color. I have used it for a long time and had no issues before on PE, copper eyelets, brass nails etc. I dilute at 1:10 with water. The parts are swished around in the solution till they go dark - Normally this is not very long. At the same time the liquid goes from clear to a dark blue in color. This suggests the liquid is based on a copper sulphate solution

In this instance there was no change in the liquid color. However the PE darkened. When I washed the parts in cold water, the dark areas started to wash off also and the parts became very brittle. They did not melt, but became hard and snapped at the lightest touch.

I have never seen this before. I can only assume that the PE is not just brass but some other alloy. Brass black is regularly used in the model ship industry.

It is made up of
WATER 60%
PHOSPHORIC ACID 7%
SELENIOUS ACID 1-5%
CUPRIC SULFATE 1-5%
AMMONIUM MOLYBDATE 1-5%
ZINC SULFATE 1-3%

It is designed for direct contact however most modellers use at 10% solution at most.
 
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Sorry about the bad luck Paul.
I tested a 'sacrificial' piece in a blackening solution I got from my local art supply store(used mainly by the leaded glass people and dirt cheap, $0.5 per 50ml)
Also diluted to about 10:1 with water and I left the piece in for about 10 minutes.
The results were a bit more encouraging :) Blackened nicely and no disintegration
Main ingredient is nitric acid

IMG_20201105_141036.jpg
IMG_20201105_134311.jpgIMG_20201105_134326.jpg
 
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Quick update. After completing the lower joists, the Trident instructions become different dependent on which way you took. If you did the lower cabin parts then you can either ignore or partially complete the flooring as suggested on page 28. In addition parts 31 & 32 are identical on sheet 25 and are reversed. Sheet 25 layout is different from the manual and part 33 is IMHO part 32. You will see when video follows.
Also the ladder part numbering is incorrect in the manual. It should be 114 not 115 for the descender. This is corrected on the blueprints. 115 appears to be the steps.( but they are on the cannon parts sheet so can be confused).

The video should expain
 

Jimsky

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Quick update. After completing the lower joists, the Trident instructions become different dependent on which way you took. If you did the lower cabin parts then you can either ignore or partially complete the flooring as suggested on page 28. In addition parts 31 & 32 are identical on sheet 25 and are reversed. Sheet 25 layout is different from the manual and part 33 is IMHO part 32. You will see when video follows.
Also the ladder part numbering is incorrect in the manual. It should be 114 not 115 for the descender. This is corrected on the blueprints. 115 appears to be the steps.( but they are on the cannon parts sheet so can be confused).
Your discovery updates are invaluable for the rest of us! Many thanks, buddy!!
 
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OK here we go, Another 15 min of distraction for you.+ BTW the tiles for the fireplace are NOT in the kit. They are leftovers from the Diorama build( On hold pending Alert, due to space issues)

Sorry its a bit choppy but I accidentally hit pause instead of record on a large section..
 
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HI Zoltan. There is no mismatch with parts. Board 12 is laid out differently than shown in manual. From the right hand side near the no 12 the order of the parts are from top to bottom 70, 63( duplicate) 70,71,71 not 70,70,71,71 63. It is obvious that 63 is in a diffrent position.
 

zoly99sask

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HI Zoltan. There is no mismatch with parts. Board 12 is laid out differently than shown in manual. From the right hand side near the no 12 the order of the parts are from top to bottom 70, 63( duplicate) 70,71,71 not 70,70,71,71 63. It is obvious that 63 is in a diffrent position.
Thank you Paul!
 
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It looks like you are NOT glueing the double frames together after they have been inserted into the keel. Why is that? Wouldn’t it make the hull assembly stronger?
I have not noticed. The ribs all move till you add the footwhales & internal beams. There is no large stresses on the hull due to extremal planking, so its not an issue. Had not considered.
 
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