Prototype HMS Blandford Cross Section Prototype by Mike 41 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Status
Not open for further replies.
donfarr said:
Lawrence, If you check out the Lumberyard, Caustic the jig used by Dave is very good very little waste, some of the Chinese POF models use a somewhat similar jig, at my age 80 have a problem cutting out my own jigs I will not get any POF models that does not come with a jig, I had to stop my Genl. Washington build even after I cut all the frames because it did not have a jig. JUST MY 2 cents Don
Click to expand...

Hello Don

I do thank you very much for your information. Yes, I did buy a building laser cut building jig from the Lumberyard and that in its self-saved me a lot of time and that is for sure. I do believe that I could have cut the building jig from my set of plans but being that this is my first POF build I did not want to take the chance, as of now I would not hesitate to cut my own. jig. The wast of wood is in the blanks for building the ship's ribs, besides this I do like the Hahn build method, ENJOY.

Regards Lawrence
 
Lawrence, check my building log on the HALIFAX and see HOWI HANDELED THE HAHN JIG mine was the kit from THE LUMBERYARD, but the jig and its use are the same. Don
 
Hi guys, somewhere along the way I had a Homer Simpson moment "Doh!" I saw posts referring to the Hahn method. Here in Australia we have a beer named Hahn Ice, so here I was thinking you fellas were talking about having a beer while building? I do all my building using the Heineken method because after a while it doesn't matter what you glue as long as it all sticks together (just like us buddies on the Forum)
 
Hello Mike, i hawe now seen your log, lots of tips and triks i wil hawe i mind when i wil start my own
build log, i se you are use loctite sprayglue, i will se if i kan get it here in Norway.

KNUT
 
Hi Knut,
Any spay adhesive will do. I bought the Loctite at Lowe's home improvement center. I did find 3M spay adhesive works just as good and is cheaper.
 
eric61 said:
Hi guys, somewhere along the way I had a Homer Simpson moment "Doh!" I saw posts referring to the Hahn method. Here in Australia we have a beer named Hahn Ice, so here I was thinking you fellas were talking about having a beer while building? I do all my building using the Heineken method because after a while it doesn't matter what you glue as long as it all sticks together (just like us buddies on the Forum)
Click to expand...
My favorite beer is...….Cold.:cool:
 
Ahoy Mike,
After I cut the upper deck beams I checked the dimensions using "The Main Deck Plan" against "The Main Deck Patterns." As you can see the patterns, dated 1/6/18, are too small to fit. I started to suspect when the two pieces that fit to deck beam #2 had to be modified to fit. I you compare them to the main deck plane the are a perfect fit.
I then cut my deck beams using the main deck plan as a template. The problem now is the deck beam contour has no picture that I can use as a template.


IMG_0507.JPG
I am confident that my frame dimensions sound. Can you check this out.
p.s. I took this photo before I moved the deck clamp.
 
Mike: I had the same problem on the lower deck, aft. The narrowing of the frames moving aft was less than the plans. I cut my beams long, and custom fit them all, taking care to align the centers. All the mortises for the carlings are then referenced off of the center lines. Then , if the frame width is slightly off, it won’t matter in the finished framed deck.
 
Hi Mike,
The deck beam contour is the same as shown on the main deck patterns noted as Side View, there is an extra MDB-4 shown above the side view label.
Dave used the best method to install the beams cutting them long and trimming them to fit, referencing the carlings from the center line.
 

Attachments

Hi Mike, following your build with extreme interest, as that is where I am with my build, if you do not mind I have questions on this stage, as Mike41 said if you screw up on the lower deck you have another chance on the upper, so right now my questions are have you done the spirketing from the lower deck to main deck clamp, and how did you determine the distance to the main deck arms which was my problem on the lower deck frameing, hope you do not mind the questions and if possible show pictures. THANKS Don
 
Hi Don, from looking at Sgtmik’s latest post he hasn’t done the spirketing from the lower deck to main deck clamp, and how did you determine the distance to the main deck arms. On page six of this build the placement of the main deck arms with a few photos.
Mike
 
Guys:
I think the latest posts in this thread focus on a really common problem in model shipbuilding. No matter how careful we are, “tolerance creep” will enter the process and critical measurements will be off. Keeping the plans always in mind, the only solution to get around the problem is to build to the model in front of you, not to the plans. Remember that the shipwrights of history had rudimentary plans, but always built “to the model” they were working on.
 
Hi Don,
Yes, I meant this build log, it is very easy to get a little off with the deck arms. If you install them attached to the adjacent deck beam first and then install the other beams you can adjust if required by trimming or adding material to the lodging knees. Check the distance between the beams before cutting the lodging knees.
Like Dave said no two models made from the same plans will be identical but they should look alike. Good luck.
Mike
 
I think there are many parts that should be made a little wider/longer for then adapt them when you assemble them
 
Hi Mike,
On page 6 of this log under the section Main Jeer and Topsail Sheet Bitts img_6338 shows the supports for the chain pump drive shafts in a drawing section and the following photos show the drive shafts in place. The upper deck framing makes the little supports difficult to see but if you look closely, they are there. I used a little dab of glue on the supports to hold the shafts in place.
Mike
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top