Prototype HMS Blandford Cross Section Prototype by Mike 41 [COMPLETED BUILD]
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The book “The 20-gun ship Blandford by Peter Goodwin” has a lot of good illustrations, it is what I based this build on. It is a relative small cross section at the main mast. The framing and joinery has been simplified for the model due to time and skill considerations.
The first part of the build consists of the building jig and keel assembly.
Building Jig:
For the top I used some scrap Baltic Burch plywood I had in the misc. pile.
For the base I used plywood sheeting from the same place. The corner supports are made from pine.
The following photos show the building material, cutting the supports with a table saw and the unassembled parts.
The first part of the build consists of the building jig and keel assembly.
Building Jig:
For the top I used some scrap Baltic Burch plywood I had in the misc. pile.
For the base I used plywood sheeting from the same place. The corner supports are made from pine.
The following photos show the building material, cutting the supports with a table saw and the unassembled parts.
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Building Jig (continuation):
Using the plans, I marked the center of each support on the top and drilled pilot holes through the top and base board, attached the top pattern and used a scroll to rough cut the center section, and using files cleaned up the notches. As shown in the following photos.
Using the plans, I marked the center of each support on the top and drilled pilot holes through the top and base board, attached the top pattern and used a scroll to rough cut the center section, and using files cleaned up the notches. As shown in the following photos.
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Keel Assembly:
The false keel is glued to the keel and cut to size, the 3/32” holes for the pins and the rebates are cut into the sides of the keel. I used a bandsaw to cut the frame notches and files to clean up the edges, using a small scrap of wood sized to the frame thickness checking the width as I went along. Drill 3/32” holes for the pins, cut the pins to length bevel each end and hammer the pins into the keel no glue is required.
I use a spray adhesive to attach the patterns to the wood and sometimes it leaves a gummy mess on the part when the pattern is removed some mineral spirits on a rag will easily remove it.
The false keel is glued to the keel and cut to size, the 3/32” holes for the pins and the rebates are cut into the sides of the keel. I used a bandsaw to cut the frame notches and files to clean up the edges, using a small scrap of wood sized to the frame thickness checking the width as I went along. Drill 3/32” holes for the pins, cut the pins to length bevel each end and hammer the pins into the keel no glue is required.
I use a spray adhesive to attach the patterns to the wood and sometimes it leaves a gummy mess on the part when the pattern is removed some mineral spirits on a rag will easily remove it.
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Final Assembly:
Locate the position of the keel on the baseboard by using the pattern on the top and mark the location of the pins, using a 7/64” bit drill holes in the baseboard holes for the pins. The oversized holes are so you can remove or replace the model from the jig. Using a vise makes attaching the top and base with the pre-drilled holes an easy task, just apply a small amount and nail it together. You will need clamps when gluing in the gussets they will pull the framework square
We have now finished part one of the build part 2 will be the frames.
Locate the position of the keel on the baseboard by using the pattern on the top and mark the location of the pins, using a 7/64” bit drill holes in the baseboard holes for the pins. The oversized holes are so you can remove or replace the model from the jig. Using a vise makes attaching the top and base with the pre-drilled holes an easy task, just apply a small amount and nail it together. You will need clamps when gluing in the gussets they will pull the framework square
We have now finished part one of the build part 2 will be the frames.
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looks good what woods you using?
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Hi Joe,
Thanks, for the jig I used plywood top and bottom and pine for the supports rosewood for the false keel and European beechwood for the keel. I will be using beechwood for the frames also.
I revised the bill of material to include a recommended timber list. This is just a suggestion you can use whatever is handy.
Mike
Thanks, for the jig I used plywood top and bottom and pine for the supports rosewood for the false keel and European beechwood for the keel. I will be using beechwood for the frames also.
I revised the bill of material to include a recommended timber list. This is just a suggestion you can use whatever is handy.
Mike
cool I used cherry for the false keel, walnut for the Keel, and thinking about my favorite wood Aspen for the frames. Might do Hickory though I do have enough laying round just need to see what the grain on it looks like.
Hi Mike, Been trying to get in Touch with someone to help,as I can ot submit Pms,Geoff says problem with SOS and Donnies working on it, so I hope this goes through, Dave(Doc Blake) said the download information is in my PMs but it is not, the last time I got it it was in notification but it is gone now, NEED TO GET THE LATEST BOM, CAN YOU HELP. Don Farr
Hi Mike, It seems like I misinterperted the construction of the keel, am I right that the keel in totoal includes the rising wood, I have some nice Boxwood but have not got the keel in one opiece is it OK to use 2 pices tho make up the total keel, THANKS Don
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Hi Don,
The keel assembly consists of two pieces, the false keel and the keel. You are correct for this model the rising wood is part of the keel I did this to simplify the assembly. Boxwood is a good choice for the keel, if the piece you have you will need to make a scarph joint in the keel, if the piece is not wide enough you can glue up two pieces for the additional width.
Do you have a copy of the bill of material? If so I will delete it from my build log thanks,
Mike
The keel assembly consists of two pieces, the false keel and the keel. You are correct for this model the rising wood is part of the keel I did this to simplify the assembly. Boxwood is a good choice for the keel, if the piece you have you will need to make a scarph joint in the keel, if the piece is not wide enough you can glue up two pieces for the additional width.
Do you have a copy of the bill of material? If so I will delete it from my build log thanks,
Mike
Hi Mike, Yes I made a copy of the BOM, but I can not get the DOWNLOADS YET CAN NOT FIND WHERE IT IS AT WENT THROUGH ALL OF MY PMs AND NOTIFICATIONS CAN NOT FIND IT ,,,,CAN YO HELP ME OUT THE PRINTER MADE A MISTAKE AND I NEED TO DOWNLOAD MISSING PAGES. THANKS FOR ANY HELP. Don
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Frames:
I will be building my frames out of European Beachwood. It looks like this piece has a small flaw in it, I will try to work around that. The next photos show the frame patterns attached to the wood, rough sawn with bandsaw, layout on sheet 1, the two sides glued (I use a sheet of 1/8” plastic between the plan and frame to keep glue off the plan), glue the two sides together and using weights or clamps let the frame dry or two hours. After they it is dry sand the frame inside and out.
The next photo shows the trial fit in the jig, it didn’t seat down in the keel due to the frame curvature. I removed the frame and filed a 30-degree bevel to the center of the top, then it fit fine. I expect all the jigs will need to be beveled like this and note this on the main support page.
The first frame is finished only eight more to go.
I will be building my frames out of European Beachwood. It looks like this piece has a small flaw in it, I will try to work around that. The next photos show the frame patterns attached to the wood, rough sawn with bandsaw, layout on sheet 1, the two sides glued (I use a sheet of 1/8” plastic between the plan and frame to keep glue off the plan), glue the two sides together and using weights or clamps let the frame dry or two hours. After they it is dry sand the frame inside and out.
The next photo shows the trial fit in the jig, it didn’t seat down in the keel due to the frame curvature. I removed the frame and filed a 30-degree bevel to the center of the top, then it fit fine. I expect all the jigs will need to be beveled like this and note this on the main support page.
The first frame is finished only eight more to go.
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Mike: Are you going to add bevel lines to frames 4-9?
Dave
Dave
1/32 scale, Mike.
Thanks. The bevel lines will help!
Dave
Thanks. The bevel lines will help!
Dave
Now, I am really showing my ignorance here. I have been so busy with site problems, I have not had any chance to really sit down and look at this until now. I guess I just was not thinking,,,,but my thought was (which is wrong). I thought that the TOP of the frames was going to sit at the TOP of the jig, not midways. Any reason for this? I was thinking all this time that the tips of the frames were going to rest at the top of jig.
Dang. I am so behind.
Dang. I am so behind.
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Hi Donnie,
The height of the jig is a reasonable question. Most navel board models stop the hull planking at the waterline and the top of most jigs of this type are located there also.
If the top of the jig was located above the widest part of the ship you would not be able to remove the model from the jig.
Basically, all the jig is really good for is locating the frames on the keel and adding the keelson, thick stuff, and deck clamps. After those items are in place you can move the model to a swivel vice (a highly recommended tool for model building) and add the internal and external details there.
Mike
The height of the jig is a reasonable question. Most navel board models stop the hull planking at the waterline and the top of most jigs of this type are located there also.
If the top of the jig was located above the widest part of the ship you would not be able to remove the model from the jig.
Basically, all the jig is really good for is locating the frames on the keel and adding the keelson, thick stuff, and deck clamps. After those items are in place you can move the model to a swivel vice (a highly recommended tool for model building) and add the internal and external details there.
Mike
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