Ahoy Mike,
Is there any particular reason that you built frame 2 first?
Is there any particular reason that you built frame 2 first?
Prototype HMS Blandford Cross Section Prototype by Mike 41 [COMPLETED BUILD]
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Hi Mike,
Yes, the reason is I was not paying attention to what I was doing. The frames all look alike and I did not realize I had them out of order.
Thanks for watching what I am doing, I will try to do better.
Mike
Yes, the reason is I was not paying attention to what I was doing. The frames all look alike and I did not realize I had them out of order.
Thanks for watching what I am doing, I will try to do better.
Mike
Ahoy Mike,
I spent too many years as an aircraft mechanic where the book is "GOSPEL." I have a specific character flau. I follow Instructions, let me clarify that, in most cases.
I spent too many years as an aircraft mechanic where the book is "GOSPEL." I have a specific character flau. I follow Instructions, let me clarify that, in most cases.
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Hi Mike,
If you look at photo 6227 you will see a piece of wood in the frame notch, this is for frame alignment not to be glued in. When you glue the two sides together use clamps I will post this method tonight. The first method with the weights is the traditional method. I like clamps because it is easier to mate the two sides. Using the weights, you can get slippage.
Mike
If you look at photo 6227 you will see a piece of wood in the frame notch, this is for frame alignment not to be glued in. When you glue the two sides together use clamps I will post this method tonight. The first method with the weights is the traditional method. I like clamps because it is easier to mate the two sides. Using the weights, you can get slippage.
Mike
Ahoy Mike,
Thank you.
Thank you.
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Frames:
This is the method I use to mate the two sides of a frame, first I insert a block of wood in the notch of one side of the frame (do not glue it in place) then apply glue to the other side of the frame and press it onto the notch block and apply clamps to each side of the block, moving up the frame place a clamp at each section as shown in the following photos.
This is the method I use to mate the two sides of a frame, first I insert a block of wood in the notch of one side of the frame (do not glue it in place) then apply glue to the other side of the frame and press it onto the notch block and apply clamps to each side of the block, moving up the frame place a clamp at each section as shown in the following photos.
Thanks Mike great building illustration.
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Frames Continuation:
This is the table I use to glue the frame patterns to the frame stock, it consists of the main support (trash can), table top (2-foot square particleboard) and protective cover (2 x 3-foot cardboard) also shown is the adhesive I use.
Attaching the spreader to the frame is done by placing a rubber band slightly below the lower deck clamp position, apply glue to ends of spreader bar and installing it at the top of the frame, as shown. Mark the location of the deck clamps on the inside of the frames.
As mentioned earlier the top of the jig needs to be beveled to accommodate the curvature of the frame, I used a cone shaped bit in a Dremel tool.
The two black dots at the ends of the frame segments represents through bolts. I drill .5mm holes and use 22-gauge brass wire for the 1:48 build. (use .8mm holes and 20-gauge brass wire for the 1:32 build)
The last photos show the frames in the jig. Note the tops of the frames are not even but will be trimmed for the waist rail.
In Part 3 We will be building everything in the hold including the well room and shot locker.
This is the table I use to glue the frame patterns to the frame stock, it consists of the main support (trash can), table top (2-foot square particleboard) and protective cover (2 x 3-foot cardboard) also shown is the adhesive I use.
Attaching the spreader to the frame is done by placing a rubber band slightly below the lower deck clamp position, apply glue to ends of spreader bar and installing it at the top of the frame, as shown. Mark the location of the deck clamps on the inside of the frames.
As mentioned earlier the top of the jig needs to be beveled to accommodate the curvature of the frame, I used a cone shaped bit in a Dremel tool.
The two black dots at the ends of the frame segments represents through bolts. I drill .5mm holes and use 22-gauge brass wire for the 1:48 build. (use .8mm holes and 20-gauge brass wire for the 1:32 build)
The last photos show the frames in the jig. Note the tops of the frames are not even but will be trimmed for the waist rail.
In Part 3 We will be building everything in the hold including the well room and shot locker.
Very nice, Mike. I like the look of the beech!
Dave
Dave
My beech wood should arrive tomorrow. I'm excited to start building.
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Thanks Dave & Mike,
The beach is very nice for framing easy to work and looks good with finish on it.
The last photo shown is a dry fit, I didn’t find enough difference in the size of the frames to warrant pre-beveling them so this morning I will make a post showing the Installation of the frames to the keel assembly.
The beach is very nice for framing easy to work and looks good with finish on it.
The last photo shown is a dry fit, I didn’t find enough difference in the size of the frames to warrant pre-beveling them so this morning I will make a post showing the Installation of the frames to the keel assembly.
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Frames Installation:
We start by placing Frame 1 in the jig and check for a squire, I had to do a little trimming on the top to get the frame square.
Next, we glue the frame to the keel and drill 2- .8 mm holes and insert the 18-gauge copper wire (brass may be used) for strength. I drilled the holes using a Dremel tool.
The amount of difference between the frames was so small I did not pre-bevel the frames and planned on sanding inside even, had a little trouble getting my sander inside the jig so trimmed the Frame 1 a little as shown in the photos.
I used a pen sander but one of the sponge type sanding blocks will do the job.
After checking the inside frames for evenness and smoothness the model is ready for Part 4 of the build.
We start by placing Frame 1 in the jig and check for a squire, I had to do a little trimming on the top to get the frame square.
Next, we glue the frame to the keel and drill 2- .8 mm holes and insert the 18-gauge copper wire (brass may be used) for strength. I drilled the holes using a Dremel tool.
The amount of difference between the frames was so small I did not pre-bevel the frames and planned on sanding inside even, had a little trouble getting my sander inside the jig so trimmed the Frame 1 a little as shown in the photos.
I used a pen sander but one of the sponge type sanding blocks will do the job.
After checking the inside frames for evenness and smoothness the model is ready for Part 4 of the build.
Ahoy Mike,
All of my wood has arrived and I am ready to start construction of my model. I am, however, unclear about the frame spreader bar. Are there one or two spreader bars? The plan gives the impression that there is one only but your photos of the build log suggest that there is one for each half of the frame. Could you please clear that up for me.
All of my wood has arrived and I am ready to start construction of my model. I am, however, unclear about the frame spreader bar. Are there one or two spreader bars? The plan gives the impression that there is one only but your photos of the build log suggest that there is one for each half of the frame. Could you please clear that up for me.
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Hi Mike,
The spreader bar just helps the top of the frames stay in alignment, it is made from scrap wood and the piece I used just happened to be the same thickness of the full frame. It does not have to be that thick, it could be the same thickness as one side of the frame and do the job.
I am glade to here you are ready to start the frames, make sure you download the latest copy of the frames I stubbed my toe on the first batch.
I am working on Part 3 and you will be working from proven drawings for this part.
Mike
The spreader bar just helps the top of the frames stay in alignment, it is made from scrap wood and the piece I used just happened to be the same thickness of the full frame. It does not have to be that thick, it could be the same thickness as one side of the frame and do the job.
I am glade to here you are ready to start the frames, make sure you download the latest copy of the frames I stubbed my toe on the first batch.
I am working on Part 3 and you will be working from proven drawings for this part.
Mike
Thanks Mike.
Mighty fine. I have got to stop all the other things I am doing and get the materials and catch up to all of this.
Donnie
Donnie
Ahoy Mike,
In your build log you gave some very helpful advice for constructing the Keel , however you only mentioned the rabbit. I know I'm showing my ignorance but, I have never cut a rabbit before. I have learned through painful experience and allot of research that one is necessary. Do you use a router, hand tools or what?
In your build log you gave some very helpful advice for constructing the Keel , however you only mentioned the rabbit. I know I'm showing my ignorance but, I have never cut a rabbit before. I have learned through painful experience and allot of research that one is necessary. Do you use a router, hand tools or what?
Hi Mike this is how I cut my rabbit, I first scre it with a marking knife you could use an exacto with a No11 blade or scapel, then I use various miature chises a viening chisel and small gouge finishing up with a folded piece of sandpape 220 grit to smooth it out, just one way it is not time consuming and gets don quickly, hope this helps. Don Farr
Hi Don,
Thanks for the advise I will give a try. I guess it would be best to try on a piece of scrap wood first.
Thanks for the advise I will give a try. I guess it would be best to try on a piece of scrap wood first.
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