Prototype HMS Blandford Cross Section Prototype by Mike 41 [COMPLETED BUILD]

[Mike41]

Hi Mike,
The 1/8” blade will turn in a smaller a radius than the ¾” blade, the ¾” blade is used for re-sawing thick stock into thinner boards.
Make sure you just have the blade tight enough to stay on the top wheel if it is too tight you will be buying lot of blades, also check the upper and lower blade guides when you change blades.
I made an auxiliary table with a zero-clearance slot for the blade, so stuff would not fall between the blade and bottom wheel. Cutting out deck knees and other small parts produces a lot of little pieces of scrap that can break a blade.
Mike

 

[Sgtmik]

Thanks Mike I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[Fishknots]

Mike,

I have gotten to the point in the build where I am ready to install the Keelson, Strakes, Footwaling and Limber Boards. The floor of the frames have been shaped to accept these planks.

I have a couple of questions:

1) What wood should be considered for these floor planks and keelson? I have used basswood to this point, so do I continue to use this wood or are the planks at the bottom of the hold a different wood?

2) How far are we going up the mast in this build? Personally, I would love to include the entire main mast on this project.

Andy

 

[Mike41]

Hi Andy,

Most models look the best if all the framing is all made from the same type of wood, I would recommend continuing with the basswood. The keelson and floor timbers are part of the framing.

I had planned on keeping this build simple, as an introduction to scratch building and was just going to use a stub mast about five inches above the main deck. If we go with the four mast sections and two platforms we don’t have enough deck length for the shrouds, backstays or braces for the yards. Without those lines the mast would be unstable and look top heavy if we had enough length to include all the main channel we could include the main yard and fighting platform, but we do not have the deck length for that option.

I am working with Zoltan on his HMS Ontario (1780) project. He has a build log in the SOS Build Logs Scratch or from Plans you may want to look at. It is scheduled to start after the Blandford is finished. It will be a more advanced build with lots of bells and whistles.

Mike

 

[Fishknots]

Thanks Mike,

I will continue with the basswood and I get the reasoning for not going all the way up the mast on this build.

I will definitely look into the Ontario Build as it appears that I haven't forgotten much since my last build in the early 80's. Guess its like riding a bicycle.

Luckily I continued woodworking and continued to build my wood shop in building furniture and such for the last thirty years.

Thanks again for all that you have done for all of us on this build. I am glad that I stumbled across this forum and this scratch build.

Andy

 

[Mike41]

Hi Andy,
The basswood is a good choice, it will give the structure a uniform appearance and the stub mast looks good on this type of model.

Building model ships is the same as building furniture on a smaller scale, it is all woodworking.

Do you have any CAD experience? The hobby gets a little more interesting when you can draw your own model plans using the original ship plans from centuries ago. This is something to think about in the future.

I am glad you stumbled across this forum, the documentation of your build is very insightful for less experienced builders.

Scratch building model ships is not rocket science, but you do have to think about what you are doing which is not a bad thing for us old guys.

Mike

 

[Sgtmik]

Hi Mike,
The drawings for the keel dated 10/29/17 do not reflect the same dimension as the BOM dated 11/1/17. I had planed to used that drawing as a template. Can you take a look if you can?

 

[donfarr]

mike I have the same problem the revisions to match the BOM are dated 11/19/17 AND 11/20/17, and I can not find them at all no where can I see them and I too want to use them as patterns, do not know what to do, really need help on this one, at least someone else has the same problem. Don

 

[Mike41]

Mike, Don
The revised drawings are being processed now and will be available shortly.
Mike

 

[Mike41]

Pump Well and Shot Locker continued:
This is a few more photos of the well and shot locker.

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[donfarr]

THANK YOU SO MUCH MIKE. Don

 

[Mike41]

Pump Well and Shot Locker continued:

This is a few more photos of the well and shot locker.

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[Mike41]

Blandford Cross Section Part 4​

Lower Deck Framing:
Check the location of the top of the deck clamps with the plans, marking the locations at frames 1 and 9 clamp and glue the clamps in place.
The lower deck beams are labeled LDB-1 thru LDB-4, when you cut the notches for the carlings leave a little white space around the notch and finish the notches with hand files in a vice. This also applies to the ledges in the carlings, you want a snug fit but do not force it into the notch.
Start with LDB-2, LDK-2 & LDK-5, bevel the knees at the frames for a good fit. The beam arms are the most difficult to fit Photo 6289 – 6291 shows my method of clamping the arm beams, don’t worry if they are not perfect you get another chance on the upper deck.
Photo 6292 shows the hanging knees LDHN-2 & LDHN-5 with LDB-3 installed. Photos 6293 thru 6299 shows the installation of the remaining beams, knees and carlings, notice the carlings are not glued in place, using the notches in the knees draw lines across the carlings for the ledge notches this keeps the ledges in line even if the notches in the beams are not the same depth, if you know all the notches are the same depth you can precut all the ledge notches. Photo 6300 – 6305 shows the rest of the framing in place.

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[Mike41]

Mast and Hatch Gratings:

Photo 6306 shows the mast as turned on the lathe notice I cut shallow groves for the rope woolding shown on photos 6311 and 6312.
Photo 6313 shows the mast guide/support in place.
Photo 6307 – 6309 shows the grating for the main and after hatchways.

The grating can be made several ways, I use the egg-crate method. Unless you have made grating for other builds I would recommend buying the grating from a model ship dealer. The size of the open area was determined by the size of the heel of the boots sailors wore, 2” or less. If there is enough interest in fabricating grating I could post some different methods under a different topic.

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[Mike41]

Chain Pumps & Lower Deck Planking:
The lower deck plan shows the deck fully planked which you can do or leave part of the framing exposed as shown in photo 6315 and 6316


Chain Pumps:
The Cistern and pump dales can be built and installed at this time. Photos 6327 – 34 I used beechwood painted black for the pumps. The drawings are self-explanatory, but you do need to add pins at the cistern end pieces to attach it to the deck, pins also need to be added to the cistern end of the pump dales and the waterway ends need to be beveled at a 45-degree angle. The pump crank handles and their supports will be added in Part 5 of the build.


Waterway and Lower Deck Spirketting:
The waterways are made by ripping two strips of wood at a thirty-degree angle as shown in photo 6319, the lower edge should be slightly above the planking. Photos 6320 – 6322 shows the waterway installed.
The installation of the Spirketting is shown in photos 6223 – 6326 using small spring clamps and rubber bands

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[Mike41]

I use brass trenails on the lower deck and will use bamboo for the upper deck. When the lower deck is sanded and finished the brass will not be so shinny and blend in with the wood better. I would suggest you use the same material on both decks, I did my build this way to demonstrate the difference in appearance.

 

[Donnie]

Oh my gosh - this is awesome !!! Beautiful work.... I wish I could get started on mine....

Thank you Mike for the details. This makes it much more easier to figure out how to build it.

Donnie

 

[Mike41]

Hi Donnie,
Thanks, this is an easy build if you take your time, read the instructions and look at the photos before you start cutting wood. The deck planking is basswood and works well with the beech framing, I used rosewood for the stanchions but any dark wood like walnut will look good.
Hopefully you will get the site problems solved and get started on your build, it will be a lot more enjoyable than writing code.
Mike

 

[Sgtmik]

Hi Mike,
Is it necessary to cut the rabbit in the keel before you attach the frames? Thanks for updating the drawing for the keel. I have my notches cut and ready to attach the frames.

 

[Mike41]

Hi Mike,
Dry fit the frames to assure the bottoms line up at the top of the rabbit line if you want to install the frames before the rabbit.
Mike