Ahoy Mike,
I have a scrap piece of Beech I will try it out . Thanks.
I have a scrap piece of Beech I will try it out . Thanks.
Prototype HMS Blandford Cross Section Prototype by Mike 41 [COMPLETED BUILD]
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Hi Mike,
If there are all these errors in the plans how how were you able to proceed as far as you did. I have already cut my keel and milled it to exactly 9/16" can I still proceed with what I have? I guess I can disassemble my jig and cut the posts down to accommodate the frames. I haven't beveled the top of the jig yet.
If there are all these errors in the plans how how were you able to proceed as far as you did. I have already cut my keel and milled it to exactly 9/16" can I still proceed with what I have? I guess I can disassemble my jig and cut the posts down to accommodate the frames. I haven't beveled the top of the jig yet.
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Hi Mike,
You don’t have to do anything to your building jig just mark the water line 1/16” below the top of the jig.
If you have not cut the notches for the frames you can glue a1/16” thick strip of wood to the top of the keel and would not be noticed.
Most of the problems with the drawings happened when we added the 1:32 scale drawings to the project and I copied the 1:48 scale BOM to the 1:32 scale BOM and failed to change all the dimensions. I am building the 1:48 model so the dimensions were correct.
Mike
You don’t have to do anything to your building jig just mark the water line 1/16” below the top of the jig.
If you have not cut the notches for the frames you can glue a1/16” thick strip of wood to the top of the keel and would not be noticed.
Most of the problems with the drawings happened when we added the 1:32 scale drawings to the project and I copied the 1:48 scale BOM to the 1:32 scale BOM and failed to change all the dimensions. I am building the 1:48 model so the dimensions were correct.
Mike
Ahoy Mike ,
Thanks I was afraid I would have to cut wood again. I messed up on my first keel because I didn't read the instructions closely. I'm Off and running.
Thanks I was afraid I would have to cut wood again. I messed up on my first keel because I didn't read the instructions closely. I'm Off and running.
Mike I am doing the 1:32 build and getting ready to order materials glad we caught this befor I ordered, is it possible for you to change the drawings of the keel section to the correct dimensions s o I can cut patterns, and what is the correct dimensions for the BOM of the keel alone and the false keel alone so I can order materials. Thanks for developing this project. Don Farr
Mike Opps did not check my PMs have the new changes, just to make sure I am correct the jig drawing DID NOT CHANGE,,,,also the CROSS SECTION DID NOT CHANGE, when I refreshed the drawings I see NEW DATE ON THE ONES CHANGED,,,,,, also went to hobby shop and got brass tubing the did not have 3/32 in, so I got 1/8 in is that OK. SO SORRY FOR MIX UP TOTALLY MY FAULT, next time I will check further before I ask DUMB QUESTION. Don Farr
Thanks Mike. Don Farr
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Hold Framing:
The Keelson is glued in place using clamps and a 20-gauge brass pin at each frame.
The first three Strakes and Footwaling boards on each side of the Keelson are glued and clamped in place, the limber boards are added next, per the Hold drawing and Part 3 Cross Section.
The Lower Deck Clamps are glued and clamped in place next.
After the Lower Deck Clamps are in place you can use the Part 3 Longitudinal Section drawing to mark the top of frames trim line and cut the frames to their finished height.
Mast Step:
The Mast step can be fabricated using the Well Details drawing and located using the Hold Plan. The mast step can be glued in place.
The Keelson is glued in place using clamps and a 20-gauge brass pin at each frame.
The first three Strakes and Footwaling boards on each side of the Keelson are glued and clamped in place, the limber boards are added next, per the Hold drawing and Part 3 Cross Section.
The Lower Deck Clamps are glued and clamped in place next.
After the Lower Deck Clamps are in place you can use the Part 3 Longitudinal Section drawing to mark the top of frames trim line and cut the frames to their finished height.
Mast Step:
The Mast step can be fabricated using the Well Details drawing and located using the Hold Plan. The mast step can be glued in place.
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Pump Well and Shot Locker:
Using the Well Details drawing, and photos assemble the Well but do not install it until the lower deck beams are in place. I glued the sides and ends using magnets on a steel plate, this works well for small deck items. The photos show the well and shot locker setting in the hold but not glued, after the lower deck beams are in place you may need to trim the top of the well, if not you have done an excellent job.
The pumps and lower deck framing will be included in Part 4 of the build.
Using the Well Details drawing, and photos assemble the Well but do not install it until the lower deck beams are in place. I glued the sides and ends using magnets on a steel plate, this works well for small deck items. The photos show the well and shot locker setting in the hold but not glued, after the lower deck beams are in place you may need to trim the top of the well, if not you have done an excellent job.
The pumps and lower deck framing will be included in Part 4 of the build.
Fantastic stuff Mike. THANKS FOR DOING THIS PROJECT AS A GROUP BUILD Don
Hi Mike,
I just tried out my new WEN Spindle sander wow! what a difference it makes. It sure does clean up your frames.
About the spreader bar, Am I correct in assuming you do not glue them in but should include them in your dry assembly as though they were a part of the frame? When I look at your build and Andy's build they look like the are glued in. What do I do with them and how do I use them?
I just tried out my new WEN Spindle sander wow! what a difference it makes. It sure does clean up your frames.
About the spreader bar, Am I correct in assuming you do not glue them in but should include them in your dry assembly as though they were a part of the frame? When I look at your build and Andy's build they look like the are glued in. What do I do with them and how do I use them?
Mike,
If you look on my build log, you'll note that I have finished my frames and notched the keel. Everything fit together well.
Frames 7-9 came up short at the tops, but when I measured the trim line that is on the revised Long Section Plan, their tops are all above the line. Frames 7 and 6 are very close, but I think I'll be ok.
My question is about feathering the frames' exteriors and interiors in order to accept the planking. I saw a posting (I think by you) about transferring frame edge lines from 5 to 6 where they transition and then shaping them prior to gluing them onto that keel.
I stair-stepped the keel notches in lieu of curving them upward from 5-9. The floor of the frames above the keel are stepped as well.
In the attached photo, Frames 1-5 are at one level and 6-9 are a bit elevated. In order to install the Killson and adjacent planking, this will have to be feathered (sanded) into a smooth transition, right?
Sorry if I am asking about something that you have already addressed, but I couldn't find that posting I referred to above. It may have been lost when the site was moved over to the new host.
And I will say this again, I appreciate all of the work you have done on this project for us!
Andy
If you look on my build log, you'll note that I have finished my frames and notched the keel. Everything fit together well.
Frames 7-9 came up short at the tops, but when I measured the trim line that is on the revised Long Section Plan, their tops are all above the line. Frames 7 and 6 are very close, but I think I'll be ok.
My question is about feathering the frames' exteriors and interiors in order to accept the planking. I saw a posting (I think by you) about transferring frame edge lines from 5 to 6 where they transition and then shaping them prior to gluing them onto that keel.
I stair-stepped the keel notches in lieu of curving them upward from 5-9. The floor of the frames above the keel are stepped as well.
In the attached photo, Frames 1-5 are at one level and 6-9 are a bit elevated. In order to install the Killson and adjacent planking, this will have to be feathered (sanded) into a smooth transition, right?
Sorry if I am asking about something that you have already addressed, but I couldn't find that posting I referred to above. It may have been lost when the site was moved over to the new host.
And I will say this again, I appreciate all of the work you have done on this project for us!
Andy
Hi Mike,
I was waiting for you to answer Andy's question about trimming the tops of the frames before I decided to re-do frame #1 at least, and maybe frame #2.
I was waiting for you to answer Andy's question about trimming the tops of the frames before I decided to re-do frame #1 at least, and maybe frame #2.
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Hi Andy, Mike
The frames in this part of the ship follow a gentle curve toward the stern and sanding them to a smooth surface for the planking is a straightforward process, you can use a pen sander, small pad sander or hand sand the frames. I usually sand all the interior and install the decks before working on the exterior. With the careful attention you have given the frames a smooth transition will be easy to do.
I am happy to answer any questions you may have.
Mike
The frames in this part of the ship follow a gentle curve toward the stern and sanding them to a smooth surface for the planking is a straightforward process, you can use a pen sander, small pad sander or hand sand the frames. I usually sand all the interior and install the decks before working on the exterior. With the careful attention you have given the frames a smooth transition will be easy to do.
I am happy to answer any questions you may have.
Mike
another impressive build Mike. Sensational.
Hi Mike,
Can you please tell me what the advantage is to using a 1/8" blade as opposed to a 3/4" blade on your band saw when cutting frame pieces.
Can you please tell me what the advantage is to using a 1/8" blade as opposed to a 3/4" blade on your band saw when cutting frame pieces.
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