Very nice work Donnie. I like it
HMS Druid P.O.F. - Unicorn Models by Donnie [COMPLETED BUILD]
Now I am working on filling in the planking at the aft section. It will be boxed in just like the bow and will cut off at the 12th Beam. Inside the Orange Box will not be planked.
Hey Donnie,
when you get the joy of building a plank on frame kit, you will not go back to plank on bulkhead models.
when you get the joy of building a plank on frame kit, you will not go back to plank on bulkhead models.
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Diggin' it! If I didnt have a stack of projects already, this kit would be on my short list. Keep it up, Donnie!
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Bryian I still believe that there is a very firm place for both.
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Donnie, Your stern windows sure do look great and well done. It is nice to see the galley stove installed, are you going to paint it to make it stand out just a bit?
Regards Lawrence
Donnie,
I like your decision to leave a generous amount of the deck open. While I have never built a POF kit myself I like it best when modelers give us more than just a little peak at the infrastructure. Keep up the great work!
I like your decision to leave a generous amount of the deck open. While I have never built a POF kit myself I like it best when modelers give us more than just a little peak at the infrastructure. Keep up the great work!
I totally agree with you, Heinrich. Both have their full justification.
Thanks guys. I am going to leave the stove as is as it will hardly be seen. My next project might be a POB (Bulkhead). I keep saying I am going to build the USS Constitution at some point. Yes, I know that ship has been built by just about everyone, but who can 'not' build her being in the USA. But, we will see. I think the latest from Sail and Sail is also a great kit as well and I am looking into that. But with me, I can only handle one kit at a time. Those of you that have several kits going on at the same time, well, my hat is off to you all as I could not keep up with all that.
I am closing in on the stern with the rudder temporarily installed and will have pics soon of that.
I am closing in on the stern with the rudder temporarily installed and will have pics soon of that.
So, before I close up the Stern section of Deck #1, I have to prepare the opening for the Rudder. Sorry for the small-size images. My camera is just not doing well and making the images look too pasty. Time to get another camera I guess.
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Looks absolutely great, wonderful pictures, we can recognize all.
Moving onward. I have Deck #1 halfway planked. One side is done, now the other. Interesting that they name the Decks as #0 for the Top, #1 mid Deck, and #2 as the most lower. I personally would have named it as #1, #2, and #3. But I have to remain to the nomenclature due to others wanting to follow for their own reference.
Hi Donnie, nice job. For sure I will use this built to guide mine in the future. A few years from now, as I have the same kit.
Concerning the numbering. I don't know how it is in China. But in South America and I belive also Europe we call the first floor " 0 " because is the ground level. Here you call it 1st floor.
Here, in USA, the elevators have 1st, 2nd and so on. We have 0, 1, 2 and so on.
So for the kit "0" is the upper deck, like the ground level. Then you go down. In an elevator, not located in USA, it will be 0, -1, -2.
I think that could be the reason.
Cheers
Daniel
Concerning the numbering. I don't know how it is in China. But in South America and I belive also Europe we call the first floor " 0 " because is the ground level. Here you call it 1st floor.
Here, in USA, the elevators have 1st, 2nd and so on. We have 0, 1, 2 and so on.
So for the kit "0" is the upper deck, like the ground level. Then you go down. In an elevator, not located in USA, it will be 0, -1, -2.
I think that could be the reason.
Cheers
Daniel
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Fantastic work Donnie.
I am one of those who got too many hats in the ring, and now have to finish some to clear my desk and head on where I am at on each.
But my collection to work on in retirement is growing, I buy now as I won't have extra income in a few years when I retire.
I am one of those who got too many hats in the ring, and now have to finish some to clear my desk and head on where I am at on each.
But my collection to work on in retirement is growing, I buy now as I won't have extra income in a few years when I retire.
I decided to switch up for a while and try to plank up the Bulwarks. I am not happy at all with these results. The inner frames are (to me) difficult to get sanded in a nice sweep curve (fairing). It is like one sanded area leads to another area that needs attention. So, at this point, after the Bulwark planking is done, maybe sanding down the roughness of the planks will help out some. In the long run, maybe it will not matter much in the grand scheme of things.
Note: from the beginning, it seems like that 'some of the frames were not in their proper slot. I even played around with making different arrangements to made the sweep or curve (fairing) of the inner hull do right, but after experimenting with placing the frames to make the fairing better, it just did not do right. So, I put the few frames back into the numbered slot as the instructions call for.
There will be a 2 x 2 mm dark walnut strip that will go along the base of the Bulwark.
So, this is another small element about this kit that perhaps someone with more experience can manage better than I am doing.
Note: from the beginning, it seems like that 'some of the frames were not in their proper slot. I even played around with making different arrangements to made the sweep or curve (fairing) of the inner hull do right, but after experimenting with placing the frames to make the fairing better, it just did not do right. So, I put the few frames back into the numbered slot as the instructions call for.
There will be a 2 x 2 mm dark walnut strip that will go along the base of the Bulwark.
So, this is another small element about this kit that perhaps someone with more experience can manage better than I am doing.
There is always the USS Constellation, not too many builds on that one. I toured it and have probably 150 photos…lol
Yes, I also went aboard the constellation and took a bunch of photos. I think there is only one kit maker that makes the constellation. I think it is AL. I can’t remember.
In continuing my fairing problem:
I think I am going to be ok with the slight fairing problem. I think the gun ports are causing the fairing to be off some (waviness). Right now the Bulwark planking is covering up the gunnports. When the ports are opened, that should make the fairing along the Bulwarks look better.
In continuing my fairing problem:
I think I am going to be ok with the slight fairing problem. I think the gun ports are causing the fairing to be off some (waviness). Right now the Bulwark planking is covering up the gunnports. When the ports are opened, that should make the fairing along the Bulwarks look better.
Donald, good afternoon.
Good job. I have one question: your deck boards are nailed only along the edges. Considering that the length of the deck board was 6 - 8 meters, this is not a very reliable mount. Why don't you show the board attachments elsewhere?
Good job. I have one question: your deck boards are nailed only along the edges. Considering that the length of the deck board was 6 - 8 meters, this is not a very reliable mount. Why don't you show the board attachments elsewhere?
Hi Donald!
As in real shipbuilding, a batten can be mounted at the top end of the frames to align and sand them precisely. The frames are usually a little longer and are shortened at the end, so that the alignment batten also disappears. In your case, the frames are aligned with each other and, of course, the supplied mounting base.
To avoid dents in the planking, I would clamp a second plank loosely and remove it after drying. This gives a straight plank course. If a plank is not exactly flush with a slightly recessed frame, this is not a loss. And a protruding frame can still be sanded. The ship's side will be sanded later and will be much more even. You will only notice these small waves because you are looking at the narrow side of the plank.
Everything is in perfect order. Don't worry too much!
Best regards
Thomas
As in real shipbuilding, a batten can be mounted at the top end of the frames to align and sand them precisely. The frames are usually a little longer and are shortened at the end, so that the alignment batten also disappears. In your case, the frames are aligned with each other and, of course, the supplied mounting base.
To avoid dents in the planking, I would clamp a second plank loosely and remove it after drying. This gives a straight plank course. If a plank is not exactly flush with a slightly recessed frame, this is not a loss. And a protruding frame can still be sanded. The ship's side will be sanded later and will be much more even. You will only notice these small waves because you are looking at the narrow side of the plank.
Everything is in perfect order. Don't worry too much!
Best regards
Thomas