HMS Enterprise 1774 POF 1:48.

[Albert Mary]

What is clear is that this CAF kit presents an admiralty version devoid of structural accuracy. While this outcome (hopefully) should look cool I am rethinking my overall plan for detailing this model. Why detail what is not correct so the frames etc are as they come.
The foreward cant frames and first few “square”frames.

Good Day, Tyler. In these kinda model accuracy is circumscribed to the upper structures, let's say from channel-wale and above (gun deck, forecastle, quarterdeck, etc.) then I quote your idea.

 

[AllanKP69]

all Axial Carpentry components should be garnished with tar cloths

I realize this is a translation issue, but are you writing about the material between scarfed pieces such as pieces of the keel? If yes, I wonder how folks here do this. I have used black tissue paper, ink, and paint with good results, but my favorite is to add a dot or two of brown acrylic paint to a small puddle of PVA glue to darken it. It does not take much paint at all and it does not weaken the strength of the glue.



Everything I have read indicates this "sealing: material is dark from the pine tar used to mix it together. but the following has me confused. From the contract for Aurora (28) 1776:

The Keel to be Elm, not more than 4 pieces 13½ ins square in Mids, sided afore 12 ins, & at the aft part of the rabbet of the post 10 ins. The Scarphs 3 ft 8 ins long, tabled one into the other, laid with white Flannel oakum bolted with Six Bolts 1 in diameter. The lips of the said scarphs not to be left more than 3⅞ in thick.
From the contract for a 74 of 1781
<Keel> ..........to be 1 feet 6 inches square in the midships, sided afore 1 feet 2 inches, and at the Aft Part of the Rabbet of the Post 12½ inches. The Scarphs 4 feet 6 inches long, tabled one into the other, laid with white Flannel or Kersey, and bolted with eight Bolts 1¼ inches in diameter. The Lips of the said Scarphs not to be left more n thickness than 5¼ inches.

I am assuming the pine tar used to make up the mixture would turn everything a dark color.

 

[Gilbertm]

Good afternoon Gentlemen

The cant frames at the bow of the ship :
View attachment 511194
View attachment 511198
What is clear is that this CAF kit presents an admiralty version devoid of structural accuracy. While this outcome (hopefully) should look cool I am rethinking my overall plan for detailing this model. Why detail what is not correct so the frames etc are as they come.
The foreward cant frames and first few “square”frames.
View attachment 511195
My connection joints to the stem need some work. I know I can get these looking good with some attention once she comes out of the jig. View attachment 511196View attachment 511197
The rabbet line also needs to be widened. deepened and smoothed out. Man I’m making work for myself later but I’m happy with that vs the alternative.
Cheers Grant

Looking great Grant
Congrats

 

[Frank48]

I realize this is a translation issue, but are you writing about the material between scarfed pieces such as pieces of the keel? If yes, I wonder how folks here do this. I have used black tissue paper, ink, and paint with good results, but my favorite is to add a dot or two of brown acrylic paint to a small puddle of PVA glue to darken it. It does not take much paint at all and it does not weaken the strength of the glue.

View attachment 511327

Everything I have read indicates this "sealing: material is dark from the pine tar used to mix it together. but the following has me confused. From the contract for Aurora (28) 1776:

The Keel to be Elm, not more than 4 pieces 13½ ins square in Mids, sided afore 12 ins, & at the aft part of the rabbet of the post 10 ins. The Scarphs 3 ft 8 ins long, tabled one into the other, laid with white Flannel oakum bolted with Six Bolts 1 in diameter. The lips of the said scarphs not to be left more than 3⅞ in thick.
From the contract for a 74 of 1781
<Keel> ..........to be 1 feet 6 inches square in the midships, sided afore 1 feet 2 inches, and at the Aft Part of the Rabbet of the Post 12½ inches. The Scarphs 4 feet 6 inches long, tabled one into the other, laid with white Flannel or Kersey, and bolted with eight Bolts 1¼ inches in diameter. The Lips of the said Scarphs not to be left more n thickness than 5¼ inches.

I am assuming the pine tar used to make up the mixture would turn everything a dark color.

Hi Allan, all Axial Carpentry components should be garnished with tar cloths not only the keel but also the bow perticulars (all of them).Frank

 

[AllanKP69]

Axial Carpentry components should be garnished with tar cloths

Hi Frank
Agreed, I was just giving one example of many situations where this would apply.
Ciao
Allan

 

[MavRick]

Good afternoon Gentlemen

The cant frames at the bow of the ship :
View attachment 511194
View attachment 511198
What is clear is that this CAF kit presents an admiralty version devoid of structural accuracy. While this outcome (hopefully) should look cool I am rethinking my overall plan for detailing this model. Why detail what is not correct so the frames etc are as they come.
The foreward cant frames and first few “square”frames.
View attachment 511195
My connection joints to the stem need some work. I know I can get these looking good with some attention once she comes out of the jig. View attachment 511196View attachment 511197
The rabbet line also needs to be widened. deepened and smoothed out. Man I’m making work for myself later but I’m happy with that vs the alternative.
Cheers Grant

Beautiful work!. Thank you for the photos. The photo looking towards the bow , very nicely done.

 

[GrantTyler]

Good Day, Tyler. In these kinda model accuracy is circumscribed to the upper structures, let's say from channel-wale and above (gun deck, forecastle, quarterdeck, etc.) then I quote your idea.

Good morning Albert. Absolutely. How I display this I still have to decide but it won’t be too far removed from the kit. Cheers Grant

 

[GrantTyler]

Beautiful work!. Thank you for the photos. The photo looking towards the bow , very nicely done.

Good morning Rick. Thank you kindly sir. Cheers Grant

 

[GrantTyler]

I realize this is a translation issue, but are you writing about the material between scarfed pieces such as pieces of the keel? If yes, I wonder how folks here do this. I have used black tissue paper, ink, and paint with good results, but my favorite is to add a dot or two of brown acrylic paint to a small puddle of PVA glue to darken it. It does not take much paint at all and it does not weaken the strength of the glue.

View attachment 511327

Everything I have read indicates this "sealing: material is dark from the pine tar used to mix it together. but the following has me confused. From the contract for Aurora (28) 1776:

The Keel to be Elm, not more than 4 pieces 13½ ins square in Mids, sided afore 12 ins, & at the aft part of the rabbet of the post 10 ins. The Scarphs 3 ft 8 ins long, tabled one into the other, laid with white Flannel oakum bolted with Six Bolts 1 in diameter. The lips of the said scarphs not to be left more than 3⅞ in thick.
From the contract for a 74 of 1781
<Keel> ..........to be 1 feet 6 inches square in the midships, sided afore 1 feet 2 inches, and at the Aft Part of the Rabbet of the Post 12½ inches. The Scarphs 4 feet 6 inches long, tabled one into the other, laid with white Flannel or Kersey, and bolted with eight Bolts 1¼ inches in diameter. The Lips of the said Scarphs not to be left more n thickness than 5¼ inches.

I am assuming the pine tar used to make up the mixture would turn everything a dark color.

Thank you Allan. I personally prefer to have these defined but slightly. I find the black paper/ink etc creates a distinct representation of this flannel. Some guys have pulled it off marvellously. For my joints I only removed the char 90% and when glued looks good. If I poly or oil this it will bring it up more. Cheers Grant

 

[GrantTyler]

Hi Allan, all Axial Carpentry components should be garnished with tar cloths not only the keel but also the bow perticulars (all of them).Frank

Thanks Frank. 100%. See my reply to Allan below on how I did mine. Cheers Grant

 

[GrantTyler]

These two sentences certainly show what a great understanding you have of this ship's construction based on historical documentation. It makes this build that much more fun to follow.

It's certainly looking good so far Grant. As for bevelling, I've always found it good to sand as near as possible to the lasered guide lines without going over them. Works for me anyway

Grant,
Your build is superb ! The majority of ship models in museums are Admiralty style, like your CAF model, so you are in good company. You are making fast progress, and will probably finish your whole ship before I'm half way done with the framing. If you were a Professional ship model maker for the admiralty back in the 18th century, you would have to work fast; it would take a lot longer to make a fully framed ship.
Cheers
Alex R

Good morning Gentlemen. I have been away on business for the past few days to George and The Wilderness. A most beautiful part of South Africa and I do love coming up here. I am sorry I missed these encouraging posts from you all so Thank you guys - it is much appreciated.
Cheers Grant

 

[Dean62]

Good morning Gentlemen. I have been away on business for the past few days to George and The Wilderness. A most beautiful part of South Africa and I do love coming up here. I am sorry I missed these encouraging posts from you all so Thank you guys - it is much appreciated.
Cheers Grant

George and The Wilderness… sounds like a movie!

 

[GrantTyler]

Good afternoon. The aft cant frames and transom pieces.

I made the transom, counter rails and stern timbers . Only the transom pieces have been fitted as the others appear fragile and I will only fit them after sanding the hull.

I made a production line on the floor to make the cant frames and spent plenty time on my hands and knees.. Making one at a time was “for the birds”. When Arlene sees I’m using her books I may be in need of medical assistance ….

The frames fitted:

I’m chuffed so far…..
Cheers Grant

 

[dockattner]

Once again you have progressed without a mis-step doing something I agonized over. Masterful!

 

[Pathfinder65]

Hi Grant,

I don't have clue as to all the terminology etc. This looks extremely complicated, time consuming.

Jan

 

[dockattner]

Hi Grant,

I don't have clue as to all the terminology etc. This looks extremely complicated, time consuming.

Jan

You're retired, Jan. All you have is time (and the honey-do list, of course).

 

[GrantTyler]

Once again you have progressed without a mis-step doing something I agonized over. Masterful!

Thank you kindly Paul. You strive for perfection in your incredible modelling while I am chuffed with something getting there. Perhaps this is where your agonising comes from however it makes for incredible results. My advice- don’t stop agonising!
Cheers Grant

 

[GrantTyler]

Hi Grant,

I don't have clue as to all the terminology etc. This looks extremely complicated, time consuming.

Jan

Good afternoon Jan. I learn as I go. Luckily for me I am getting loads of assistance from this kit otherwise I would certainly be fluffing my first POF. It’s like assisted learning. Cheers Grant

 

[RussF]

Very nice! You guys are really making me want to build a POF model.

 

[Pathfinder65]

You're retired, Jan. All you have is time (and the honey-do list, of course).

True, I don't even remember working. I'ts the ship building terminogly that I find elusive. Back in the "Day" working for "Ma Bell" it was simple, "The big end of the Pole went into the hole and the stencil was turned facing the road"

Jan