HMS GRANADO 1:48 scale PoF CAF Model by Keith

VERY nice, clean work. Well done! I hope to approach it when I get to building mine. And good luck with your surgery!
Thank you my friend. Good luck with your build. l'm sure you're going to love it! Will you keep us informed of your progress?
 
Hi Guys. Feeling OK and managed to get the gap closed and the hull frames completed today. The first milestone on this epic journey and l'm really pleased with the result after 3 months of very enjoyable work. The keelson, which is next on the list and stern transom timbers will see the completion of session 1, leading on to the next stage, lower deck cabins, inner hull planking and mortar riders and beam assemblies, which l can't wait to get my teeth into. l'm still waiting for my surgery date but believe it will be quite soon, so that's going to put a hold on things for a while. Hopefully l can complete all of session 1 by then . . . till the next time

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This is looking good sir. Please keep positive thoughts and do take care!
 
Thank you my friend. Good luck with your build. l'm sure you're going to love it! Will you keep us informed of your progress?
That is my plan. Of course I need to be able to offer something of value along the way, or it makes no sense. Hopefully, that will be the case.
 
The keelson and stern counter timbers are now fitted. The keelson is made of 7 separate sections. Each section is made up of 2 halves of 3 mm parts laminated together and the sections are joined with scarf joints which with some small adjustments all fitted very well.

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Great work, I'm impressed! I'm wondering about the aspect of POF in that do you do any extensive sanding and fairing on the inside of the frames before the floor pieces go in? Wondering what method people might use to do that, as it would seem to be hard to get anything like common sanding blocks and sticks in there to apply like it might outside.

Thanks!
 
Great work, I'm impressed! I'm wondering about the aspect of POF in that do you do any extensive sanding and fairing on the inside of the frames before the floor pieces go in? Wondering what method people might use to do that, as it would seem to be hard to get anything like common sanding blocks and sticks in there to apply like it might outside.

Thanks!
Hi and thanks for your interest and compliments. I try to finish and fair the frames as accurately as possible to the finished form before attaching them to the keel in the building jig. That cuts down the amount of sanding needed on the inside of the hull. Just a quick clean up is necessary. The outside of the hull is obviously easier to finish once it is out of the jig.
 
Thank you very much Hienrich for your kind words. l am trying for this weekend to close the hull because l have had some bad, but not unexpected news and it looks like the following weeks will be filled with hospital appointments. Scans, surgery and chemo. Sorry to drop this on you and this group, but l am scared and need to tell someone. Maybe l should just keep quiet
Wow - good luck and my prayers and thought will be with you.
The keelson and stern counter timbers are now fitted. The keelson is made of 7 separate sections. Each section is made up of 2 halves of 3 mm parts laminated together and the sections are joined with scarf joints which with some small adjustments all fitted very well.

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beautiful work. I love the way you build your model ships. Cheers Grant
 
Wow - good luck and my prayers and thought will be with you.

beautiful work. I love the way you build your model ships. Cheers Grant
Thank you very much for your compliment and interest Grant. It is very much appreciated.
 
Part 1 is now totally finished with the addition of the stern timbers and some of the port sills, but l have left the 5 lower gun port sills on both sides until after the upper deck clamps and mortar bed clamps have been installed as l think they will interfere with the positioning of them.

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Looking great! Makes me even more excited to start mine, which should arrive in the next couple days.
Thanks and all the best with your Granado build. Have you ordered all 3 sessions? There are a couple of very minor discrepancies to look out for in session 1. l can't think of them right now. But if you have any queries, just say and either myself or Uwek hopefully can help
 
Thanks and all the best with your Granado build. Have you ordered all 3 sessions? There are a couple of very minor discrepancies to look out for in session 1. l can't think of them right now. But if you have any queries, just say and either myself or Uwek hopefully can help
Yes, I didn't want to take a chance that they wouldn't be available later. Plus, I intend to cheat and "look ahead".

And don't worry: I'll be asking you, Uwek and probably others lots of questions. But your posts and pictures really help clarify things, so hopefully I won't be that bothersome. ;)
 
I have decided to start part 2 by making up the 4 templates provided for marking the height of the deck clamps and mortar bed. These are a great idea by CAF as they help to ensure the positions are correct not only of the clamps, but the 6 square holes in the centre parts of 1, 2 and 3 are to mark the height of the shell rack timbers as well. The centre section of the templates slide up and down to increase/decrease the width to enable them to be placed in position and later removed as the waterline level of the hull is wider than the upper deck level making the template too wide to fit at these points.

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I have decided to start part 2 by making up the 4 templates provided for marking the height of the deck clamps and mortar bed. These are a great idea by CAF as they help to ensure the positions are correct not only of the clamps, but the 6 square holes in the centre parts of 1, 2 and 3 are to mark the height of the shell rack timbers as well. The centre section of the templates slide up and down to increase/decrease the width to enable them to be placed in position and later removed as the waterline level of the hull is wider than the upper deck level making the template too wide to fit at these points.

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Cool. I'd seen them, but hadn't realized how they worked: center piece lowering to lock into an exact measurement, but removable to remove the template. Very neat idea.
 
Starting work on the limber boards and inner hull planking. At this point I think I shall only plank one side and leave the the other side frames exposed. When the present row is finished I shall begin marking the positions and drilling holes for the tree nailing. 0.6 mm holes should be about the right scale

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Starting work on the limber boards and inner hull planking. At this point I think I shall only plank one side and leave the the other side frames exposed. When the present row is finished I shall begin marking the positions and drilling holes for the tree nailing. 0.6 mm holes should be about the right scale

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Good morning Keith. As always lovely work. It must be a mission to get the plank bend just right and then fit it from the inside. The more I look at these POF builds the more I say to myself can I really achieve this..? Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Keith. As always lovely work. It must be a mission to get the plank bend just right and then fit it from the inside. The more I look at these POF builds the more I say to myself can I really achieve this..? Cheers Grant
Hi Grant. Thank you very much. I would gladly take the credit but the inner planking is supplied all preshaped and only a small amount of adjustment is necessary to get the correct fit. So although a little tricky it's not beyond most people's ability.
 
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