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HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted

Didn't work out on purchasing the Caldercraft copper plates. The cost was within $30 of what I paid for the entire kit.
I'm going with the Drydock Models plates I just received.
So far I have the first sheet cut apart and have started cutting off the nibs.IMG20250721125734.jpg
 
I finally finished trimming the copper plates. Initially I was using a #11 xacto blade to cut them out. I the. Started using a pair of kitchen shears. Finally I transitioned to a small pair of sewing scissors. I found that if I placed the copper plates tight to the scissors and up against the area they be trimmed that if I just barely started cutting the nib and pushes lightly forward at the same time; I got a flat cut that didn't bend the plate. In fact, it became easy to get a neatly trimmed plate without bending or distortion.
I hope that explanation is good enough to follow because the difference in effort and results were surprisingly good.
The final technique was approximately 6-8 time faster than the xacto blade.
IMG20250725115637.jpgIMG20250725115358.jpg
The new copper plates have two blank edges without nail patterns.
On the other side I was able to install them like bricks but these will have to be overlapped.
I'm all set for a new learning experience.
Happy modeling
 
I'm looking forward to making the spars.
All of the provided materials are dowels.
The center portion of the spars are octogonal and the outer portion is tapered.
My plan is to chuck the dowels up in a vee block and mill the eight flats using a Dremel rotary tool and their drill press adapter. This adapter doesn't have a fine adjustment for elevation (depth) so that part is problematical.
I'm not sure how to determine what the target width for the flats would be.
Every video I've found starts with square stock.
The plans in my photo show using a 6mm dowel but show the spar at 6.02 after the flats are cut. The flat portion on the plans is 3.04mm.
Could someone please direct me to a tutorial that simplifies the work to be done.
Thank you,
Happy modeling17534733066395408801731089612240.jpg17534733563213937069082527790398.jpg
 
If the octogonal flats measure 3mm then the circumference would be approximately 24mm.
If C=2πr the the circumference of a 6mm dowel is about 18.9mm.
How do I file 19 mm down to 24mm?
 
Sorry Ted, and it may be just me, but I am confused. Do you mean how to file 24mm down to 19mm? If you file flats into a round dowel, the cross section of the flats of the octagon will be smaller than the diameter of the largest round portion.
Allan
 
Poor explanation on my part. The circumference of the provided 6mm dowel is about 18.84mm. The plans show the flats of the octogonal portion to be approximately 3mm each. That 3mm times eight flats is 24mm.
In this case square stock would have simplified the making of the spar. I'm thinking that if I flattened the spar to get eight sides it will be smaller in the center than that remaining. I could then glue on some flat pieces to bring it up to the required dimensions. A little sanding and painting...
 
Four plates in place. It's definitely a lot more difficult to overlap the plates. I have trouble keeping them aligned without using using CA glue to anchor them while the Super Phatic glue sets. I hope I don't have a problem keeping the spacing consistent since I don't have a mark to judge the overlap.IMG20250726090156.jpg
 
I don't know if I mentioned it before but painting the hull with copper paint was a mistake. The Super Phatic glue peels the paint away if the glue is too heavy.
I got the tip to do this from an online you tuber. The theory was it would hide any gaps in the plates. That too is no longer a concern since I have to overlap these plates.
 
Ted Robinson said:
That too is no longer a concern since I have to overlap these plates.
Click to expand...
Love it. Great to see it being done this way. Looks like the material is very thin so the overlap looks really nice. Something to consider is that the overlap on the long edge needs to have the plates start at the waterline, not at the keel. In the end I doubt many people will notice.
Allan
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1753702898955.jpeg
 
AllanKP69 said:
Love it. Great to see it being done this way. Looks like the material is very thin so the overlap looks really nice. Something to consider is that the overlap on the long edge needs to have the plates start at the waterline, not at the keel. In the end I doubt many people will notice.
Allan
View attachment 534438
View attachment 534441
Click to expand...
Thanks. I understand that but half of the plates I received have to go from bottom up to keep the overlap from keel to waterline.
I'll restart at the top and work it out later
 
Ted Robinson said:
I started again at the waterline. I don't know why but it's easier going in this direction.View attachment 534496
Click to expand...
I don't know how this is going to work out.
I think the copper sheets were supposed to be used on opposite sides of the hull. In that case I only purchased half the plates I need the ndo this side.
I already have over 250 of the original Caldercraft plates but they don't match close enough to use. And now I have over 250 of the Drydock plates that are wrong.
My intentions at this point is to use what I have from Drydock and use the 33 plates that have nail patterns around the entire plate to some sort of work around.
 
Another thing. The Caldercraft copper plates must have been coated with some finish where the Drydock plates tarnish easily with handling.
Just something to keep in mind if using Drydock plates
 
Argh. I got dip in the masking tape before my first row of copper plates.
I'm not going to tear it out. I don't have enough plates as it is and I'm not buying anymore l.
I'm going to out a sort of wale over the junction to hide the flaw.IMG20250729104835.jpg
 
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