HMS Ontario 1780 scale 1:32 POB full version

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Today in Naval History - Naval / Maritime Events in History
31 October 1780 - HMS Ontario (22) sinks in Lake Ontario (found intact almost 230 years later)

 
@donfarr Hi Don, There many different shapes and brands of scalpels. Frankly speaking, surgery type of blades should be very sharp. I assume the #11 blade should be sufficient for this job as it has the longest edge among others. I found some on Amazon (just ordered for myself) but never use this brand before, they are disposable as soon as they get dull.

Another suggestion is to buy # 11 blades made by Olfa (Japan). They made with high-grade steel, and while also considered disposable, you can sharpen them and they can serve a longer life. But this will require sharpening knowledge and use of sharpening stones. Those blades can fit the most hobby knives.


View attachment 117751

Hope this will help,

Be careful with surgical scalpels! Those that resemble a #11 X-Acto are much thinner than the X-Acto and may snap, especially when used with hard woods.
 
Yes, Knut. Those are the surgical scalpels. They are different types and sizes, careful when buying them, on the picture shown it is # 4 blade holder, so it will not accept # 11 blades. Anyone who is interested may take a look at a compatibility chart below.


Enjoy
 
N. 4 blade holders are the ones that I use and there are so many blades that you can attach to them that they are a kind of universal blade holder.

Yes, surgical blades are thinner and may brake more easily, at least in theory but I am using them for a long time now and that is not usual, even with real hard wood, because the holder gives the blades an extra strenght.

Regards

JL
 
Hello shipmates!!
I have messed up a bit,the waterways is basswood stained cherry but I do not like it ,also forgot to add spirketting plank,I have figured out a way to fix these issues.Here it is my idea,I will plank over the waterways with real cherry timber ,I will sand bod sides of timber in a way that the spirketting plank will sits on it properly and the waterways plank lays on the deck plank smoothly.I did a trial with two different spirketting plank width.

F79CBB87-0B1E-4BF6-A93C-041F36D39398.jpeg846859E4-FFE6-4D76-AB3A-70CAB205ABCB.jpeg

Any suggestions??
 
Hi Zoltan,
The basswood is soft and easy to cut, if you made 4 or 5 stop cuts along the length and remove the ‘center section’ the rest would be easy to take out, the only thing destroyed would be the old waterway.
Mike
 
Greetings Zoly, If you put spirketting plank on top of the waterways as it now, you will see the gap between waterway and deck planks (see the picture) I agree with Mike to remove and re-do the entire waterway or as the option, sand down the waterway first so the sickness of deck plank will hide the gap.

846859E4-FFE6-4D76-AB3A-70CAB205ABCB.jpg
 
Hello Jim,removing the waterways is not an option,too much damage can occur,the gap is visible because the plank was not pushed hardly into place ,just an illustration,I might try to send the waterways but not much room is there to do that evenly.
 
Zolly.I have been pondering this.If it was me,I would remove the waterway,for me it would be the fastest fix,Now if you are worried about collateral damage,I have a suggestion.Take a Utility (Stanley) knife blade.First dull the edge with the Dremel.Then grind the point square to the cutting face.The square facemust only be the height of the waterway,
You can then hold the blade,dull cutting face against the subdeck and used the square end to scrape way the old waterway.A bit like scraping mouldings.Because the square face is only as high as the waterway,you will not mark your planking.I would not take much as basswood is so soft.You are not touching the glued faces as such.You only have to go flush to the bulwark planking.The sliver of waterway underneath this can remain,it will be boxed in.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
Zolly.I have been pondering this.If it was me,I would remove the waterway,for me it would be the fastest fix,Now if you are worried about collateral damage,I have a suggestion.Take a Utility (Stanley) knife blade.First dull the edge with the Dremel.Then grind the point square to the cutting face.The square facemust only be the height of the waterway,
You can then hold the blade,dull cutting face against the subdeck and used the square end to scrape way the old waterway.A bit like scraping mouldings.Because the square face is only as high as the waterway,you will not mark your planking.I would not take much as basswood is so soft.You are not touching the glued faces as such.You only have to go flush to the bulwark planking.The sliver of waterway underneath this can remain,it will be boxed in.

Kind Regards

Nigel
Thank you Nigel,good idea,I am almost done sending the waterways to half thickness :rolleyes:o_O:rolleyes::oops:,I need to cut out the margin plank what is going to be a chore by itself to fit everything together there.

ani suggestion how to drill scuppers in the correct angle ??
 
Yes Zolly,shape a piece of scrap wood to sit on the deck and against the bulwark.Drill a hole through the block at the required angle.You can then drill from inside using the block as a drilling guide.This is all dependant on how much space/angle you have to get the drill in.You may have to use a pinvise.I certainly would try and go from the inside out as going the other way you are asking for misalignment in relation to the deck;)

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
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