Hi Alex, see here my deck. It seems to be quite OK except for the mast which is set off to the rear, but I didnt change that.
HMS Royal Caroline kit ZHL 1/30 (Following the Maarten's RC)
- Thread starter Alex T
- Start date
- Watchers 24
-
- Tags
- royal caroline zhl
Oh, no!
Does this deck corresponds with the mast hole in the main deck?
In any way, your deck is cut from the beginning (comparing to mine). Therefore your mast moved ahead and the flue returned to the right position! Both my and your decks have the same (wrong) distance between the mast and the flue.
These guys are very creative and they definitely try to improve it, but in a very specific way, ahahaha!
Thank you for the picture. It's fun, indeed
In the meantime, all carvings are cleaned, after 3 days of work, with the following tools:
Re: the front upper deck geometry.
Because the side stairs are too close to the cannons, and because cannons are much closer to the front because of the carvings, I will:
- cut the deck 10mm
- move the flue to its right position towards the front (according to the drawings)
Pity, because it means removal of 3 lines of planking, which is a painful process.
And, it will go down, as discussed above. But I may need to see the Maarten's ship to make the final decision.
Many thanks to @Maarten & @neptune for support!
Because the side stairs are too close to the cannons, and because cannons are much closer to the front because of the carvings, I will:
- cut the deck 10mm
- move the flue to its right position towards the front (according to the drawings)
Pity, because it means removal of 3 lines of planking, which is a painful process.
And, it will go down, as discussed above. But I may need to see the Maarten's ship to make the final decision.
Many thanks to @Maarten & @neptune for support!
Last edited:
After 3 layers of oil and one layer of wax the hull is ready.
It's time to have a look at wales, and we see that the black paint is damaged
Some final works:
and now we are masking the body for a new layer of black color
It's time to have a look at wales, and we see that the black paint is damaged
Some final works:
and now we are masking the body for a new layer of black color
Finally I learnt the burnishing technique for copper parts: do it 2-3 times, cleaning after each time. Then it works really good.
It's time to start the implementation of my color scheme: gold over blue.
I decided to practice first on the boat...
I decided to practice first on the boat...
Last edited:
The wales are re-painted. We had two days of troubles with the wrong black paint, and finally found the right one.
I finally chose the semi-gloss:
And now we can hammer the nails into the wales:
I finally chose the semi-gloss:
And now we can hammer the nails into the wales:
Very good progress and very well executed - looking very good.
One question: you prepared already the holes for the nailing / bolting of the wales, will you use copper / brass "bolts" for the wales?
and.....which type of color / paint did you use for them
One question: you prepared already the holes for the nailing / bolting of the wales, will you use copper / brass "bolts" for the wales?
and.....which type of color / paint did you use for them
Dear Uwe, I used black metal nails. Therefore I did not paint them, just inserted the nails into the wales after painting the wales.
The rudder is ready. Oiled, waxed, nailed.
OK, its time to make the holes for the cannon ports.
The issue was to define the X and Y coordinates of the ports.
Finally I figured out the solution:
X coordinate:
Dealing with separate pictures of carvings did not help. So, I took a picture of the carvings from the original drawings, printed them out (power point turned out to be the best tool) to find the difference of 21 mm in length, adjusted the image in PPT, and printed again. Then I glued this paper ribbon of EXACT size to the hull and this defined the X.
Y coordinate:
I made a simple wooden tool (I demonstrated it some time ago), which allows to define the Y coordinate on the outer wall of the hull by using the main deck as a baseline. So, I put this wooden tool under the paper ribbon, and together they defined X & Y and allowed to draw the ports easily.
I made only one correction: I raised the first gun port 1 mm up in order to suit the general line of carvings.
The issue was to define the X and Y coordinates of the ports.
Finally I figured out the solution:
X coordinate:
Dealing with separate pictures of carvings did not help. So, I took a picture of the carvings from the original drawings, printed them out (power point turned out to be the best tool) to find the difference of 21 mm in length, adjusted the image in PPT, and printed again. Then I glued this paper ribbon of EXACT size to the hull and this defined the X.
Y coordinate:
I made a simple wooden tool (I demonstrated it some time ago), which allows to define the Y coordinate on the outer wall of the hull by using the main deck as a baseline. So, I put this wooden tool under the paper ribbon, and together they defined X & Y and allowed to draw the ports easily.
I made only one correction: I raised the first gun port 1 mm up in order to suit the general line of carvings.
OK, its time to clean the space for the back room!
On the rights is the temporary deck which will be removed:
This vibration saw is the best tool for this kind of cleaning job!
Done:
On the rights is the temporary deck which will be removed:
This vibration saw is the best tool for this kind of cleaning job!
Done:
Beautiful work. Please keep pictures coming. Rudder pintles/gudgeons seem to be cut out of brass sheet. How did you cut them out? Jeweller's saw? Thanks.
Dear Gennaro, please do not over estimate our skills. The pintles/gudgeons were supplied not as sheets but as 3D parts, depicted in the post 226. I just had to burnish them to get the steel look and feel.
Last edited:
Issue: The bulwarks have different width as you can see from the picture
My calculations demonstrated that the width at the top is 4.6mm, and at the deck layer 7.6mm.
I have to add from inside to the hull the following layers to implement it:
1. triangular parts, 3mm (at the bottom), 24mm high
2. 1st planking 2mm
3. 2nd planking 0.5 mm, dark wood.
Here are the triangular parts, which also will frame the cannon ports:
And here goes the 1st planking:
My calculations demonstrated that the width at the top is 4.6mm, and at the deck layer 7.6mm.
I have to add from inside to the hull the following layers to implement it:
1. triangular parts, 3mm (at the bottom), 24mm high
2. 1st planking 2mm
3. 2nd planking 0.5 mm, dark wood.
Here are the triangular parts, which also will frame the cannon ports:
And here goes the 1st planking:
As the coronavirus conquers the world, the cat decided that the control of the supply part of the shipbuilding value chain is more important now
Come on! He is quite soft...
OK, guys, for the next several months this blog will be quiet: the Old Master will fly back to Moscow and have some rest.
During the last three months he has finished the REAL (top left on the photo) and made quite a progress with the Royal Caroline.
Now, I will have time do deal with the knowledge about the RC ship: I will process the manuals, docs, and get ready for the next round. The Chinese manuals, drawings and the kit were quite challenging for me.
I might build something myself, but it will be very, very slow, as my business goes up and it will be a tough time.
Thank you all very much for support!
It was the first time in my life when we assembled a ship in such a supporting company, and it was very, very enjoyable!
I will also give some thoughts to the business of the Open Ship Building Platform, as I believe that this market segment can leverage your support. I just need to build a nice supportive environment.
During the last three months he has finished the REAL (top left on the photo) and made quite a progress with the Royal Caroline.
Now, I will have time do deal with the knowledge about the RC ship: I will process the manuals, docs, and get ready for the next round. The Chinese manuals, drawings and the kit were quite challenging for me.
I might build something myself, but it will be very, very slow, as my business goes up and it will be a tough time.
Thank you all very much for support!
It was the first time in my life when we assembled a ship in such a supporting company, and it was very, very enjoyable!
I will also give some thoughts to the business of the Open Ship Building Platform, as I believe that this market segment can leverage your support. I just need to build a nice supportive environment.