Gents, many thx for all your comments.
Now it is time for starting on the PS side,cso a lot of repetition will follow.
Now it is time for starting on the PS side,cso a lot of repetition will follow.
HMS Royal Caroline kit ZHL 1/30
- Thread starter Maarten
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Today I gave myself a gift which was already long on my list.
Being in the shop I also treated myself with a nice drill stand.
Next on the list is the FET saw table and the thicknesser.
Being in the shop I also treated myself with a nice drill stand.
Next on the list is the FET saw table and the thicknesser.
Enjoy your new tools Maarten, Proxxon are one of the best makes,
best regards John,
best regards John,
Great tools, enjoy! Those should make you modeling jobs easier 
As I am now working on the PS which means repeating everything shown before, so there is not much to report.
But my next ship will be scratch build so I started already reorganizing my workshop to produce all parts my self.
The next vessel will be a typical Dutch ship a fluit with a round bow and stern.
Scale will be 1:30, same like my Royal Caroline.
Plan is all my future builds to be in 1:30 or 1:48.
I am considering to build it shell first as the original was build.
For all these plans I now expanded my workshop with a new circular saw and a thicknisser, both Proxxon.
But my next ship will be scratch build so I started already reorganizing my workshop to produce all parts my self.
The next vessel will be a typical Dutch ship a fluit with a round bow and stern.
Scale will be 1:30, same like my Royal Caroline.
Plan is all my future builds to be in 1:30 or 1:48.
I am considering to build it shell first as the original was build.
For all these plans I now expanded my workshop with a new circular saw and a thicknisser, both Proxxon.
Very nice tools, in addition, Maarten!
The PS side is taking its shape, nearly up to the same status as the SB side.
Finally the ps side is finished except for the carving around the fore castle bulwark.
And that is the next step. First I double planked the fore most frame followed by a second layer of veneer planks.
This is sanded and painted blue, sorry jim. I think for future models I will do al my colouring with Ecoline which is more like an ink penetrating the wood and you can seal afterwards with oil.
Next step will be tricky, the top carved rail on the fore caste bullwark shoul be following the line of the deck which is curved, the kit provides a flat carved rail which now must be cruved around its vertical axis. But thats for next time.
And that is the next step. First I double planked the fore most frame followed by a second layer of veneer planks.
This is sanded and painted blue, sorry jim. I think for future models I will do al my colouring with Ecoline which is more like an ink penetrating the wood and you can seal afterwards with oil.
Next step will be tricky, the top carved rail on the fore caste bullwark shoul be following the line of the deck which is curved, the kit provides a flat carved rail which now must be cruved around its vertical axis. But thats for next time.
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Well... your painting looks really good! If I would paint...forget about it...Maybe, one day, I will learn
Time to create the curvature in the forward bullwark. As mentioned in the model they created a flat bullwark where this should follow the deck curvature.
To create it I prepared a mold in the correct curvature.
Steamed the carving and pressed it over night.
Now time for sanding it down to half its thickness and then finishing the carvings.
To work on the delicate carvings I bought a set of microscopic glasses, the are magnifying twice and are adjustable in focus. Ideal for working with very small pieces of wood. Especially if you are like me passing your end of 40s.
To create it I prepared a mold in the correct curvature.
Steamed the carving and pressed it over night.
Now time for sanding it down to half its thickness and then finishing the carvings.
To work on the delicate carvings I bought a set of microscopic glasses, the are magnifying twice and are adjustable in focus. Ideal for working with very small pieces of wood. Especially if you are like me passing your end of 40s
.
Finally all the carvings on the side are finished together with the top carving on the front bullwark.
This is te current status.
Next will be the small deck before the fore castle.
This is te current status.
Next will be the small deck before the fore castle.
She is looking beautiful Maarten, due to all your skills and detailing,
Best regards John,
Best regards John,
Hello Marrten HOW ABOUT 80 PLUS, BEAUTIFUL MODEL SO WELL DON IN ALL THE DETAILS, JUST A WORK OF ART. Don
Hi Marrten is what you are getting is the same as ROYAL TALENS ECOLINE LIQUID BRUSH PENS THAT SAY THEY ARE WATERCOLORS. THANKS Don
Yes it is, product is ecoline from Talens. There are a lot of guitar builders using this to color there wood. Black is fully UV resistant, lighter colors like red wil be more difficult I guess. I have the ecoline in a larger ink bottle. It is very thin penetrating well into the wood.
A second option is Aerocolor of Schmincke. This seems to be much higher uv resistant as it is a very thin acryllic. I havent tested it yet as I only needed black for coloring my pear to ebony and there ecoline did a great job.
Difference is that aerocolor contains pigments where ecoline is an ink.
See below pictures of both products.
See below pictures of both products.
Thanks for your first 'painting' introduction, Maarten. How fast it will dry and its reaction to water (you took the painting part with wet hand)? How this surface accept Oils?