Hi Nigel,Excellent work Maarten.Are you going to represent the frames that went across between the vertical timbers in this area?These are illustrated in the AOS book drawings but missed in many of the kits of this vessel including Panart's.
What a beautiful, clean work.Hi Nigel,
I have doubled the vertical timbers and according to the AOTS drawings I have these were directly placed on the upper large knee supporting the cutwater, see top drawing below.
View attachment 128514
On this drawing there are no horizontal timbers visible.
View attachment 128515
If you have additional info please let me know.
Hi Marrten,Hi Ken.
Polishing of surfaces I do with steelwool.
The small surfaces I do with beewax and a proxxon buffing wheel. To remove the cutting edges I scrape the surface with the knife blade, this gives a very smooth surface that doesn't need a lot of polishing.
The black ink I use is Ecoline from Talens. Finishing can be done with Tung oil, allthough I currently use a matt parquettery oil. Tung oil is widely used and available.
I use clear beeswax with turpentine, you can buy this in any traditional furniture or woodworking shop. This is a small tin can and when applying I first put the heat gun it then becomes liquid. Then apply it with a toothbrush on the wood, then again I use the heat gun the beeswax penetrates further into the wood and the color becomes richer. Remove too much of wax from the surface with a toothbrush or a cloth. Let the wax harden before polishing it with a buffing wheel at low to medium speed. High speed will create more heat and melt your wax again reducing the shine.
I use clear beeswax for my boxwood carvings. There are also different colored beeswax. For instance @neptune John used this for his RC with pear carvings.