Thank you, are going to use normal paper or some fine art papers like these fine Japanese papers?
http://www.awagami.com/aijp/about/index.html
HMS Royal Caroline kit ZHL 1/30
- Thread starter Maarten
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http://www.awagami.com/aijp/about/index.html
The print quality of the paper is most important. As I use a colour laser printer I am stucked to laser printer paper.
As promissed herewith the link to the parquetery examples I used to print for the flooring.
You can create amazing parquet floors with these.
http://www.victonparkett.com/palace_parquet.html
You can create amazing parquet floors with these.
http://www.victonparkett.com/palace_parquet.html
G'day Maarten, excellent work on the interior of the model as well as the exterior, how do you plan on displaying the interior, are you going to just have beams on one side so people can look down into the model,
best regards John.
best regards John.
Hi John,
Thx for the compliments. The interior will be closed and can be viewed through the windows with the lights switched on.
I dont create an open construction like Greg is doing.
Regs Maarten
Thx for the compliments. The interior will be closed and can be viewed through the windows with the lights switched on.
I dont create an open construction like Greg is doing.
Regs Maarten
Back from a week of wintersports so the tough life starts again 
.
I am working on the inside of the kings day cabin selecting the proper look and feel for the interior.
First I have closed the rudder post space, the rear side of the cabin will be covered with walnut veneer planks and varnished or waxed to simulate a mahogany look, same like the bedroom bulkhead and doors.
After this the bedroom structure has to be build, I first build this all from plywood which will be covered with wall paper or walnut veneer.
As this is not part of the kit everything has to be build from scratch. The bottom and side walls of the bed, as well as the wall between the stairs and the cabin spaces.
Check the fitting of the bedroom floor, walls and roof.
For the bed I have created a mattress of a piece of foam covered with the blue velvet which was added by the kit for the stand. I am not using this for the stand as I don't like this, so I am using this for the bed cover and curtains.
Checking the fit of the mattress, for the walls I selected a Georgian wall paneling, on the paneling I put a GIF image of the coat of arms of King George II. Fitting and finishing still needs to be done.
On the hull side a georgian flour pattern wall painting, which I think is a better fit with the blue velvet then the previous choice. I think the other one I am using for the meeting room.
The setup of the walls incl the door to the staircase.
The doors I make from strips of wallnut which are glued on top of each other, see below.
The finall result finished looks like this, only the hinges (yes Greg hinges) will still be made and fitted.
Still 3 doors to go.
To light up the inside of the cabin next to the indirect light of micro leds on a deckbeam I will ad three chandeliers to the cabin.
I habe made these from some wire which I twisted, on these I have soldered a candle simulating mini led, the chandelier being the positive wire. Then I soldered a small piece of copper insulated wire to the negative part of both leds which I twisted along the chandelier. Finally I sealed it with white heat shrink sealing and simulating a candle. See the burning candles above, these are 10 mm high.
The next step is the deck beams, as I have removed all original ribs I have to create new deck beams. For these I am using solid pearwood. I have decided to create a admirality type of deck structure, meaning I am building the whole deck beam structure and leave a part of the deck planking open. I will not use the plywood decks supplied with the kit but fit basswood planks of 2 x 7 mm. I will use basswood planks for all decks. For all top decks I will create new deckbeam construction with admirality style deck planking of 2 x 7 mm basswood. The main deck will be covered with 1 x 7 mm basswood planks on top of the plywood deck.
First deck beams fitted in place, the rest of the deck beam construction has to be build. I have to sort out a proper contruction as this is not mentioned in the AotS plans. Challenges enough for the coming time.
See you next time.
.I am working on the inside of the kings day cabin selecting the proper look and feel for the interior.
First I have closed the rudder post space, the rear side of the cabin will be covered with walnut veneer planks and varnished or waxed to simulate a mahogany look, same like the bedroom bulkhead and doors.
After this the bedroom structure has to be build, I first build this all from plywood which will be covered with wall paper or walnut veneer.
As this is not part of the kit everything has to be build from scratch. The bottom and side walls of the bed, as well as the wall between the stairs and the cabin spaces.
Check the fitting of the bedroom floor, walls and roof.
For the bed I have created a mattress of a piece of foam covered with the blue velvet which was added by the kit for the stand. I am not using this for the stand as I don't like this, so I am using this for the bed cover and curtains.
Checking the fit of the mattress, for the walls I selected a Georgian wall paneling, on the paneling I put a GIF image of the coat of arms of King George II. Fitting and finishing still needs to be done.
On the hull side a georgian flour pattern wall painting, which I think is a better fit with the blue velvet then the previous choice. I think the other one I am using for the meeting room.
The setup of the walls incl the door to the staircase.
The doors I make from strips of wallnut which are glued on top of each other, see below.
The finall result finished looks like this, only the hinges (yes Greg hinges) will still be made and fitted.
Still 3 doors to go.
To light up the inside of the cabin next to the indirect light of micro leds on a deckbeam I will ad three chandeliers to the cabin.
I habe made these from some wire which I twisted, on these I have soldered a candle simulating mini led, the chandelier being the positive wire. Then I soldered a small piece of copper insulated wire to the negative part of both leds which I twisted along the chandelier. Finally I sealed it with white heat shrink sealing and simulating a candle. See the burning candles above, these are 10 mm high.
The next step is the deck beams, as I have removed all original ribs I have to create new deck beams. For these I am using solid pearwood. I have decided to create a admirality type of deck structure, meaning I am building the whole deck beam structure and leave a part of the deck planking open. I will not use the plywood decks supplied with the kit but fit basswood planks of 2 x 7 mm. I will use basswood planks for all decks. For all top decks I will create new deckbeam construction with admirality style deck planking of 2 x 7 mm basswood. The main deck will be covered with 1 x 7 mm basswood planks on top of the plywood deck.
First deck beams fitted in place, the rest of the deck beam construction has to be build. I have to sort out a proper contruction as this is not mentioned in the AotS plans. Challenges enough for the coming time.
See you next time.
G'day Maarten
Welcome back after a week or two in the Alps skying.
This is something similar to what I'm planning to do.
I'm so glad that you're going to make hinges for the doors!
Havagooday and happymodeling mate
Greg
Welcome back after a week or two in the Alps skying.
What a life!
You are going great guns mate with this part. I remember that there are a small window on the wall between the top deck of the main cabin and the deck above the kings cabin. These windows are veneration or light for the king's bed.This is something similar to what I'm planning to do.
I'm so glad that you're going to make hinges for the doors!
Havagooday and happymodeling mate
Greg
Hi Greg,
Unfortunately it was only one week skiing, but it was great fun again with temperatures till -27 deg C.
Where did you get this picture from. I like the addition of the window and haven't seen it before.
Regs Maarten
Unfortunately it was only one week skiing, but it was great fun again with temperatures till -27 deg C.
Where did you get this picture from. I like the addition of the window and haven't seen it before.
Regs Maarten
Hallo Maarten, good progress with the interior of the cabin.
I am looking forward to see more
I am looking forward to see more
G'day Maarten
Only one week.You poor soul!
Lol
That picture is from the AToS book, it the black and white photo of an old model in the book.Lol
I also read some where that there were a window that could be opened to let out the hot air on over the king's bed. I can't remember where I read it. But, it makes sense because, he was a bag of wind, if you get my drift, I have also read that, some where else. Lol
Happymodeling mate
Greg
Hi Greg, Brian,
Many thx for your comments.
Greg this raised ceiling can only be done for half the bed. The other half is useed for the stairs to the meetingroom deck.
I will change it accordingly.
Regs Maarten
Many thx for your comments.
Greg this raised ceiling can only be done for half the bed. The other half is useed for the stairs to the meetingroom deck.
I will change it accordingly.
Regs Maarten
I agree. Only the foot end of the bed that will have veneration, that's is were most of the hot air comes from any way . Lol
Still working on the kings cabin with still plenty work to be done. For the doors of which I showed one in the previous post I made hinges. In the kit there are some hingen included but as I am expanding the interior I need 5 extra doors and 10 extra hinges. I cut the hinges from thin brass plate.
First of all I cut two F shaped pieces from the brass plate.
These two pieces fit in each other
Then the hinge is shaped around a small brass nail.
Two hinge parts together give one compleet hinge
Cutting the mail to lenght and the hinge is finished, some small holes will be drilled to fix it to the door.
Two hinges and one door is finished.
Fully functional doors in the interior
The bulkhead of the meeting room has also fully functional door, the bulkhead itself still need to be finished etc.
The door panel on the staircase side is finished with wood strips which were supplied with the kit. On the left the unfinished surface on the right side finished with clear monocoat oil which gives it a nice warm appeal with an open wood structure.
The door panel on the other side is part of the hall way between the meeting room and the kings cabin and on this I have created a wooden panneling on the lowerpart in walnut topped with a light coloured strip. The upper part is finished with a Georgian style flower pattern wallpaper. The images I have searched on google and printed on a good quality laser colour printer. To finish the surface I spray it with two layers of hair lacquer to seal the colours and finish the surface.
The door panel for dry fitting in place.
And the staircase side of the panel.
Next time the placement of the galleries and fitting the toilets in the kings cabin.
First of all I cut two F shaped pieces from the brass plate.
These two pieces fit in each other
Then the hinge is shaped around a small brass nail.
Two hinge parts together give one compleet hinge
Cutting the mail to lenght and the hinge is finished, some small holes will be drilled to fix it to the door.
Two hinges and one door is finished.
Fully functional doors in the interior
The bulkhead of the meeting room has also fully functional door, the bulkhead itself still need to be finished etc.
The door panel on the staircase side is finished with wood strips which were supplied with the kit. On the left the unfinished surface on the right side finished with clear monocoat oil which gives it a nice warm appeal with an open wood structure.
The door panel on the other side is part of the hall way between the meeting room and the kings cabin and on this I have created a wooden panneling on the lowerpart in walnut topped with a light coloured strip. The upper part is finished with a Georgian style flower pattern wallpaper. The images I have searched on google and printed on a good quality laser colour printer. To finish the surface I spray it with two layers of hair lacquer to seal the colours and finish the surface.
The door panel for dry fitting in place.
And the staircase side of the panel.
Next time the placement of the galleries and fitting the toilets in the kings cabin.
The hinges are realy looking good, realy thin, so in scale. I Guess you will blacken them in addition.
Looks great.
Looks great.
Fantastic work Maarten, she is really fit for a Princess, so detailed and fine, I look forward to your next post,
Best regards John.
Best regards John.
Hi Uwek,
Many thx. For a normal vessel I would do this, but as this is a royal yacht I think I leave them brass. It the same with the decorations of the inside cabins, I will create a kind of luxurious floating palace.
Regs Maarten
Many thx. For a normal vessel I would do this, but as this is a royal yacht I think I leave them brass. It the same with the decorations of the inside cabins, I will create a kind of luxurious floating palace.
Regs Maarten
Hi John,
Many thx, toilets are already in progress, so the people at the yard can already use them.
I expect the next post soon.
Regs Maarten
Many thx, toilets are already in progress, so the people at the yard can already use them.
I expect the next post soon.
Regs Maarten
I wanted to add lanterns in the cabins for lighting with LED's, this as open candles can be used in some locations but normally vessels were lighted with lanterns to avoid fires. On the models size of 1:30 a lantern should be between 1 to 1,5 cm in height and to create this I have started a small test with etsching this from brass.
Etsching is a process were you remove metal by a strong acid, you dissolve the metall. The part you want to create should be protected from the etsching process and you do that by putting a layer on top of that. This can be very simply done with a laser printer, some magazine paper and an iron. The toner of a laser printer consists of very small plastic particles which are melted on the paper by the printing process. What you do is you print the part you want to etsch on the magazine paper and then you use a hot iron to ironing it on the brass with the iron at it highest temperature. I used two irons simultanioulsy at both sides of the brass plate. Keep them on for at least 5 minutes to melt down the toner to the brass. Before this you have to sand down the brass and after that clean it with Acetone for degreasing. For the etsching process you need the chemicals Waterperoxide and Hydrochloric acid and mix them together, be carefull and wear safety glasses as this is a strong ACID, also ventilate well to avoid dangerous fumes.
To create my latern I made a drawing in Powerpoint, you have to create the same drawing also in mirror image as the print has to be on the same side of the brass at exactly the same spot. So fold the paper to match the twop drawings and check against a bright light if the match is 100%.
See below the drawing I made for my 1,2 mm latern.
The lantern contains of 4 sides, a square top and bottom and two hinges. This drawing has to be folded in two with the ink on the inside around a cleaned sheet of brass. Then it should be heated with an iron to transfer the toner to the brass sheet.
After the ironing the paper is fixed to the brass and should be removed by soaking it into water and carefully remove the paper.
This is the result, not perfect yet but it will do for the first time. The surface which is black will remain, the rest will dissolve in the acid bath. The toner can be fine tuned with a small knive if needed.
Know the chemicals come into play. Use a plastic container for this, No metall!! First add the water peroxide to the container followed by the hydrochloric acid. The ratio I used is 1/3 to 2/3, maybe this can be improved.
This is my first etsched lantern, there is still room for improvement but this is really zoomed in. For my first lantern it will do. Now it needs to be cut loose from its frame.
After this I need to fold the lantern. I use a scissors for this and clamp it between the blades and fold it along the blade.
This is the folded lantern, and its size between my exacto knive and plastic scissors, used in the acid bath.
And the drawing compared to the final etsch result.
The last step was to add a candle light LED into the lantern followed by burnishing it to get the nice black brown colour.
The finall result, I will need plenty of these to light the spaces onboard.
Etsching is a process were you remove metal by a strong acid, you dissolve the metall. The part you want to create should be protected from the etsching process and you do that by putting a layer on top of that. This can be very simply done with a laser printer, some magazine paper and an iron. The toner of a laser printer consists of very small plastic particles which are melted on the paper by the printing process. What you do is you print the part you want to etsch on the magazine paper and then you use a hot iron to ironing it on the brass with the iron at it highest temperature. I used two irons simultanioulsy at both sides of the brass plate. Keep them on for at least 5 minutes to melt down the toner to the brass. Before this you have to sand down the brass and after that clean it with Acetone for degreasing. For the etsching process you need the chemicals Waterperoxide and Hydrochloric acid and mix them together, be carefull and wear safety glasses as this is a strong ACID, also ventilate well to avoid dangerous fumes.
To create my latern I made a drawing in Powerpoint, you have to create the same drawing also in mirror image as the print has to be on the same side of the brass at exactly the same spot. So fold the paper to match the twop drawings and check against a bright light if the match is 100%.
See below the drawing I made for my 1,2 mm latern.
The lantern contains of 4 sides, a square top and bottom and two hinges. This drawing has to be folded in two with the ink on the inside around a cleaned sheet of brass. Then it should be heated with an iron to transfer the toner to the brass sheet.
After the ironing the paper is fixed to the brass and should be removed by soaking it into water and carefully remove the paper.
This is the result, not perfect yet but it will do for the first time. The surface which is black will remain, the rest will dissolve in the acid bath. The toner can be fine tuned with a small knive if needed.
Know the chemicals come into play. Use a plastic container for this, No metall!! First add the water peroxide to the container followed by the hydrochloric acid. The ratio I used is 1/3 to 2/3, maybe this can be improved.
This is my first etsched lantern, there is still room for improvement but this is really zoomed in. For my first lantern it will do. Now it needs to be cut loose from its frame.
After this I need to fold the lantern. I use a scissors for this and clamp it between the blades and fold it along the blade.
This is the folded lantern, and its size between my exacto knive and plastic scissors, used in the acid bath.
And the drawing compared to the final etsch result.
The last step was to add a candle light LED into the lantern followed by burnishing it to get the nice black brown colour.
The finall result, I will need plenty of these to light the spaces onboard.
As etching was fun I directly started a second etsch project, I create a George III monegram for the vessels doors.
In this case I google it and then sized and printed. Again very small in size and very delicate.
Followed by ironing it on brass plate.
And then etsched
this is the etsch result
See the size below
Then it is cleaned with Acetone.
And finally fixed to the door.
I still have to fine tune the process, but these results are not possible with an other methode then etsching.
See you next time and happy modelling.
In this case I google it and then sized and printed. Again very small in size and very delicate.
Followed by ironing it on brass plate.
And then etsched
this is the etsch result
See the size below
Then it is cleaned with Acetone.
And finally fixed to the door.
I still have to fine tune the process, but these results are not possible with an other methode then etsching.
See you next time and happy modelling.
Very well done Maarten, they look really good,
best regards John.
best regards John.