HMS Sovereign of the Seas - Bashing DeAgostini Beyond Believable Boundaries

Kurt,
Nice updates - certainly the way to go with current way to add accurate decorative bits to your ship. Will you need to 3D print a second set for the other side, but first also reversing the images?
 
oldflyer said:
Kurt,
Nice updates - certainly the way to go with current way to add accurate decorative bits to your ship. Will you need to 3D print a second set for the other side, but first also reversing the images?
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The 3D objects will be mirrored, printed again, and applied to the other side. We don't know what the decorations look like on the other side looked like. The best guess is to copy the decorations to both sides of the vessel.
 
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Another militia panel completed with the help of some purchased 3D objects modified in order to save time pushing polygons around.

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Work has begin on the militia items panel nearest the forecastle beakhead bulkhead. Payne's engraving is especially vague on this part. So, clues from other contemporary sources need to be used. John Payne's engraving was made before the ship was finished being built, so it functions as a concept image for the vessel. Van de Velde the Elder's drawings are from a period after the first refit of 1658-1660, so the decorations and other details may have been changed. The last course is the a painting (below) by an unknown artist which was completed some time after the ship was built, and is probably the best source for how the decorations appeared.

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The panel in question on the painting shows a close helmet with feathers of feathers on a background of rippled cloth and weapons.
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This is what Van De Velde's drawing shows. It's hard to discern but there is a sword present (bottom left).
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Payne's engraving.
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I took a 3D close helmet found online and added a plume to the plume ho.lder on the back of the helmet. I actually made a close helmet, which was on my personal suit of armor which I made in 1990 (below).
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Close helmet model in Blender 3D.
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DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
ME TOO! I have to learn how to print them first...
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Good morning Kurt. Design is the hard part which you completely own. Splicing can be tricky and it is here where a print fail occurs. I don’t know which program you will use to convert the design, but if you get this right the printer pretty much does everything else. Man you certainly went “big” here- kudos. Cheers Grant
 
@WojtasS has been helping me with some advice in making printable 3D objects in Blender 3D. Thanks to him, some new methods to detet errors in the 3D objects were learned.

I loaded some of the militia item panel 3D objects into Chitubox to see if there were any unprintable sections. One object had several problems, so I reconstruted it in Blender from its subcomponents and did not attempt to use the Blender tool "3D Print/Clean/manifold" to this time. That tool has a habit of scrambling sections of a complex object, creating holes and reversing normals on clusters of polygons. As a result, there were more intersecting polygons left behind, but Chitubox can now print the object. It will be some time before my topology is good enough to reduce errors in my 3D objects, but I'm making progress. At least the first few objects appear printable. Only an attempt to print them will reveal if they are successful.

This decoration panel does not contain any dark blue sections, indicating that Chitibox 3D printing software did not detect any unprintable sections of the object. This object had to be reconstructed in Blender until it was printable.
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dockattner said:
This is actually why I had wondered why you had not tried to print anything yet (in an earlier post). Perhaps that experience would influence how you are designing these tiny pieces of art...
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I’m learning the stages of printing these objects one step at a time. At the moment the focus is on making the 3-D objects as correctly as possible, copying them off Payne’s engraving.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
@WojtasS has been helping me with some advice in making printable 3D objects in Blender 3D. Thanks to him, some new methods to detet errors in the 3D objects were learned.

I loaded some of the militia item panel 3D objects into Chitubox to see if there were any unprintable sections. One object had several problems, so I reconstruted it in Blender from its subcomponents and did not attempt to use the Blender tool "3D Print/Clean/manifold" to this time. That tool has a habit of scrambling sections of a complex object, creating holes and reversing normals on clusters of polygons. As a result, there were more intersecting polygons left behind, but Chitubox can now print the object. It will be some time before my topology is good enough to reduce errors in my 3D objects, but I'm making progress. At least the first few objects appear printable. Only an attempt to print them will reveal if they are successful.

This decoration panel does not contain any dark blue sections, indicating that Chitibox 3D printing software did not detect any unprintable sections of the object. This object had to be reconstructed in Blender until it was :Dprintable.
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Good morning Kurt. These are tiny complex prints for sure. After this learning curve and a “gazillion” prints you will be the “master” of 3D ship decoration printing. Good luck I’m watching with massive respect at this challenge you have embark on. Not an easy venture. Cheers Grant
 
GrantTyler said:
Good morning Kurt. These are tiny complex prints for sure. After this learning curve and a “gazillion” prints you will be the “master” of 3D ship decoration printing. Good luck I’m watching with massive respect at this challenge you have embark on. Not an easy venture. Cheers Grant
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After looking at my second crossbow (below), my own master who taught me the craft of fashioning medieval crossbows said to me, "The most beautiful pieces are made by gifted apprentices." This is because they pour their heart and soul into their work. That is where I am in the world of model ship building.
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