HMS Victory - 1/100 Heller [COMPLETED BUILD]

Please someone who knows more about this ship - let him explain - should the rivets on the copper plating be imitated?
I think that on a scale of 1/100 they will be too small (about 0.1 mm) and in reality they will hardly be visible.

I am also interested in the real ship, whether the rivets on the copper plating were as pronounced as in the ships of a later period.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hi Moarein!

Do you really want to do this to yourself an imitation of nailing for 3.500 plates in this small scale?

The plates were 121 x 52 cm in England and Holland and 162 x 49 cm in France.

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Source: Wolfram zu Mondfeld, Historische Schiffsmodelle, 1977 Mosaik Verlag.

Bernard Frölich "L'ART DU MODELISME" works with nail matrix and cardboard. Mondfeld worked with a cutting wheel for sewing machine accessories. Even finer are dermarollers from the drugstore. But with almost all systems the plates are embossed from behind.

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Victory 2017 without copper plates and current paint.

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A more than two meter long model of the Victory in Portsmouth. The nailing on it is very fine.

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Copper plating of the Cutty Sark in Greenwich.

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USS Constitution was newly copper-plated in 2016. My two daughters were allowed to engrave their names on an original copper plate which was later mounted on the hull.

On their Victory I would not imitate nailing because of the scale and the copper plating is already applied.

With best regards
Thomas
 
Thanks a lot Thomas!
When I finished the copper cover, I will decide what must I do with the nails...

And what is your opinion about the copper cladding line?
The anatomy shows how the bearings of the copper plating are slightly higher.
In this case, Heller's model does not provide this possibility - if I raise the copper a little, it will cover the boards at the nose and I will have "copper" boards ...
So the question is - Is the model of Heller i correct ...
 
Hi Moarein!

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Source: The anatomy of Nelsons Ships, C. Nepean Longridge, 1994, Argus books.

The plates start at the waterline at the stern. Each plate of the upper line is slightly covered by the following plate towards bow. The 2nd row of panels have the same system and cover slightly the 1st row.

I also noticed that on Longridge's plan above there are 12 continuous copper rows. In the Heller version there are 14.

With best regards
Thomas
 
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Thanks Thomas, very helpful information.
I will continue according to Heller's model, without redoing anything.
I will still try to make the rivets, although on this scale they will be almost invisible.
I will show photos when I'm ready :)
 
And so - the whole copper plating is placed. I start tests with light matting, and imitation of rivets.
Pure matt varnish does not look good - I will try a semi-matt.
If it does not fit well - there will be no varnish.

First I riveted to the side - I liked the result so I started on the ship.
I make the rivets with an awl, the points are below 0.1 mm

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Half of the hull is riveted.
I have about 3500 tiles with 50 rivets on each tile, which makes about 175,000 rivets ...
I slightly corrected the black lines on the bottom row of gun ports.

I have not yet decided whether to partially matte it, because after riveting, the gloss decreases by about 30% ...182.jpg190.jpg191.jpg192.jpg193.jpg194.jpg195.jpg
 
Moarein said:
Yes, I think that is the same.
I never used copper foil until now - will see what will happened...
For now is too shiny for me... :)
Click to expand...
I have used copper tape on my current HMS Victory build as well. I applied it early this year. By now, the shine has worn down and it's actually starting to take on a bit of patina/green-ish shade (which is great).
 
Hello again!
To take a break from the rivets, I decided to make a small and precise circular saw. It must be able to cut slats 0.5 mm thick.
The machine is old - I bought it from a man for about $ 40 - it was rusty, but the engine was working.
I lubricated the engine, fixed some other problems, painted it in my favorite red and made the countertop + aluminum guide.
The goal has been achieved and I am satisfied
:)


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Great skils, Moraein!! love your engineering! On another (side note), if you don't mind obviously, you might consider changing the blade thickness. In your photo, above, the cut is twice the width as the strip you were produced. It will be a lot of timber waste at a ratio of 2:1 ;)
 
Thanks Jimsky!
I know about the thickness - I also have thinner discs. This one is just for a try.
Actually under 1 mm thick disk becomes dangerous, so I prefer to have a little more material consumption at the expense of security.
With a slat with a width of 3 cm, I can make about 14-15 slats of 1 mm, which suits me perfectly.
 
Moarein said:
Can anyone help please - it's about the inscription Victory on the back.
In the older photos the letters are more collected, and in the newest ones they are spaced apart.
Which option is correct for the period 1800 - 1809?


Click to expand...
Take a look at this contemporary model of the NMM:

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DescriptionScale: 1:48. A contemporary full hull model of the Victory (1765), a 100 gun first rate, three-decker ship of the line. Model is decked. Depicted after extensive refit (her so-called "large repair") completed in 1803, prior to the Battle of Trafalgar. Model also shows further modifications which were proposed after Trafalgar which were not carried out.
Date madecirca 1805

Victory (1765); Warship; First rate; 100 guns | Royal Museums Greenwich

collections.rmg.co.uk collections.rmg.co.uk
 
Take also a look at this german forum, in which the Victory is in detail described.
A friend of mine Daniel Fischer, dafi is building the Heller version

Recherche » Heckspiegel der Victory im Jahre 1765 und seine Entwicklung

Ich arbeite mich so langsam bei meiner Victory in das Jahr 1765 vor und bin bei diesem Portmouth-Modell auf die umfangreiche Bemalung unterhalb der unteren Fen
www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com
 
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