HMS Victory (1765) - Artesania Latina [COMPLETED BUILD]

Many Thanks for showing us an update of your works on your Victory !!!
 
Rmazdra said:
I purchased my AL kit of HMS Victory early in 2019 off of eBay. I paid $600 for it (which is about the average cost that I see).

Overall, I am happy with the kit. I really like the beauty in the different variety of woods. My initial intention was to paint the entire model the battle colors at the time of Trafalgar in 1805. However, I wanted to show some of the wood's patterns and shades. Thus, one side of the hull is left unpainted (which is as the kit was designed) and the other half painted. It's almost been like building 2 models at once. The deck work is also, for the most part, unpainted. It's been interesting thinking of how to blend the painted portion with the unpainted. I wanted the blending to come across as natural as possible regardless of the viewer's perspective.

I also chose to build out the lower gun deck with full carronades versus using a "fake" lower gun deck. This was all done because I wanted to put in lights to all 3 gun decks and transom.

So far, I'm about 1300 hours into the build. I can foresee needing that much time to get through the rest.
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Hallo @Rmazdra
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
Ahoy! Been a while since I've posted.

Victory is still making progress, albeit a bit slower. Yards, sails, and rigging. Rinse. Repeat. Getting close to finishing all the sails I'm going to outfit her with. Just the main topgallant and the mizzen sails to go.

Trying to get the provided sails by Artesania Latina to hold their shape has been interesting. I started off using a product called Stiffen Quick (I'm not joking on that name). It was too heavy when I sprayed it on and I couldn't get a decent billowing form to stay. It also dried very unevenly, leaving a lot of wrinkles. I wound up discarding that approach and instead just used an iron, steam, and spray starch. After ironing and starching, I usually hung the sails to dry, wrapped up in a cylinder, for a few days, leaving them dangling below my desk light which I left on. They are holding up their form pretty well without being overly stiff. They can still flex a bit as I'm rigging and I think are looking pretty natural.

I had a vision early on not to rig all the sails (especially the stay sails) because I wanted to leave all the rigging between the masts better visible. And I furled up the main and fore masts to give a good look at all the activity on deck getting all the lines tied down.

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Rmazdra said:
Ahoy! Been a while since I've posted.

Victory is still making progress, albeit a bit slower. Yards, sails, and rigging. Rinse. Repeat. Getting close to finishing all the sails I'm going to outfit her with. Just the main topgallant and the mizzen sails to go.

Trying to get the provided sails by Artesania Latina to hold their shape has been interesting. I started off using a product called Stiffen Quick (I'm not joking on that name). It was too heavy when I sprayed it on and I couldn't get a decent billowing form to stay. It also dried very unevenly, leaving a lot of wrinkles. I wound up discarding that approach and instead just used an iron, steam, and spray starch. After ironing and starching, I usually hung the sails to dry, wrapped up in a cylinder, for a few days, leaving them dangling below my desk light which I left on. They are holding up their form pretty well without being overly stiff. They can still flex a bit as I'm rigging and I think are looking pretty natural.

I had a vision early on not to rig all the sails (especially the stay sails) because I wanted to leave all the rigging between the masts better visible. And I furled up the main and fore masts to give a good look at all the activity on deck getting all the lines tied down.

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Good morning. An exquisite Victory. One of the best I have seen. Awesome. Cheers Grant
 
Rmazdra said:
I purchased my AL kit of HMS Victory early in 2019 off of eBay. I paid $600 for it (which is about the average cost that I see).

Overall, I am happy with the kit. I really like the beauty in the different variety of woods. My initial intention was to paint the entire model the battle colors at the time of Trafalgar in 1805. However, I wanted to show some of the wood's patterns and shades. Thus, one side of the hull is left unpainted (which is as the kit was designed) and the other half painted. It's almost been like building 2 models at once. The deck work is also, for the most part, unpainted. It's been interesting thinking of how to blend the painted portion with the unpainted. I wanted the blending to come across as natural as possible regardless of the viewer's perspective.

I also chose to build out the lower gun deck with full carronades versus using a "fake" lower gun deck. This was all done because I wanted to put in lights to all 3 gun decks and transom.

So far, I'm about 1300 hours into the build. I can foresee needing that much time to get through the rest.
Click to expand...
How did you create the rivet impressions on the copper cladding?
 
uncchains said:
How did you create the rivet impressions on the copper cladding?
Click to expand...
Hi there. I decided to do the copper plating the easy way using 1/4” copper tape. That was the right width for the scale of my build. I measured a long strip of tape to fit down the length of the hull, then marked the width of each plate on the paper backing of the tape. The rivet impressions were made using a pounce wheel (see pic). This is a small metal wheel with spikes, usually used for marking cloth when sewing. I ran the pounce on the back side of the copper tape so that the impression pushed out the front of the tape, but didn’t puncture it. I think the real copper plates are nailed over the entire surface of the plate, but with the pounce wheel, I only felt steady enough to do the outlines of each plate. I like the final result, and the copper tape is even starting to show a nice patina.32829C64-6B4D-46B7-9871-3FE930F66BC6.jpegD4936728-726E-48D6-8C8C-D8EFE9CB7189.jpeg
 
Rmazdra said:
Hi there. I decided to do the copper plating the easy way using 1/4” copper tape. That was the right width for the scale of my build. I measured a long strip of tape to fit down the length of the hull, then marked the width of each plate on the paper backing of the tape. The rivet impressions were made using a pounce wheel (see pic). This is a small metal wheel with spikes, usually used for marking cloth when sewing. I ran the pounce on the back side of the copper tape so that the impression pushed out the front of the tape, but didn’t puncture it. I think the real copper plates are nailed over the entire surface of the plate, but with the pounce wheel, I only felt steady enough to do the outlines of each plate. I like the final result, and the copper tape is even starting to show a nice patina.View attachment 357382View attachment 357383
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I agree. I need to get one for my cross section model.
 
Rmazdra said:
Ahoy! Been a while since I've posted.

Victory is still making progress, albeit a bit slower. Yards, sails, and rigging. Rinse. Repeat. Getting close to finishing all the sails I'm going to outfit her with. Just the main topgallant and the mizzen sails to go.

Trying to get the provided sails by Artesania Latina to hold their shape has been interesting. I started off using a product called Stiffen Quick (I'm not joking on that name). It was too heavy when I sprayed it on and I couldn't get a decent billowing form to stay. It also dried very unevenly, leaving a lot of wrinkles. I wound up discarding that approach and instead just used an iron, steam, and spray starch. After ironing and starching, I usually hung the sails to dry, wrapped up in a cylinder, for a few days, leaving them dangling below my desk light which I left on. They are holding up their form pretty well without being overly stiff. They can still flex a bit as I'm rigging and I think are looking pretty natural.

I had a vision early on not to rig all the sails (especially the stay sails) because I wanted to leave all the rigging between the masts better visible. And I furled up the main and fore masts to give a good look at all the activity on deck getting all the lines tied down.

View attachment 357269View attachment 357271View attachment 357273

View attachment 357270

View attachment 357272
Click to expand...
That is such a beautiful model. I'm so glad to see the Ivory sides instead of the yellow. It looks way better this way. I'm toying with this kit for my next build. I have reason to believe that my Grandfather served on it in the late 1800's and looking now for more information on him. Incidentally I'm putting sails on my Cutty Sark and found some Elmers glue that is clear. Painted both sides of a sail with the glue and left it on a curved surface with waxed paper between the sail and the curved surface to dry over night. The next day I removed it from the form and peeled the waxed paper off and had a nice curved sail (lower Main) to work with. It was very pliable but kept it's form pretty well with help from the lines attached to it. I'll try a few more sails like this and see how it goes. Norgale
 
Rmazdra said:
I purchased my AL kit of HMS Victory early in 2019 off of eBay. I paid $600 for it (which is about the average cost that I see).

Overall, I am happy with the kit. I really like the beauty in the different variety of woods. My initial intention was to paint the entire model the battle colors at the time of Trafalgar in 1805. However, I wanted to show some of the wood's patterns and shades. Thus, one side of the hull is left unpainted (which is as the kit was designed) and the other half painted. It's almost been like building 2 models at once. The deck work is also, for the most part, unpainted. It's been interesting thinking of how to blend the painted portion with the unpainted. I wanted the blending to come across as natural as possible regardless of the viewer's perspective.

I also chose to build out the lower gun deck with full carronades versus using a "fake" lower gun deck. This was all done because I wanted to put in lights to all 3 gun decks and transom.

So far, I'm about 1300 hours into the build. I can foresee needing that much time to get through the rest.
Click to expand...
What was your reference for the width of the black and white bands on the painted side? I am building the Corel cross-section. I am trying to start at the water line (16mm below the lower gun ports (Ref: Bugler)) but its not balancing out quite right.
 
Rmazdra said:
I purchased my AL kit of HMS Victory early in 2019 off of eBay. I paid $600 for it (which is about the average cost that I see).

Overall, I am happy with the kit. I really like the beauty in the different variety of woods. My initial intention was to paint the entire model the battle colors at the time of Trafalgar in 1805. However, I wanted to show some of the wood's patterns and shades. Thus, one side of the hull is left unpainted (which is as the kit was designed) and the other half painted. It's almost been like building 2 models at once. The deck work is also, for the most part, unpainted. It's been interesting thinking of how to blend the painted portion with the unpainted. I wanted the blending to come across as natural as possible regardless of the viewer's perspective.

I also chose to build out the lower gun deck with full carronades versus using a "fake" lower gun deck. This was all done because I wanted to put in lights to all 3 gun decks and transom.

So far, I'm about 1300 hours into the build. I can foresee needing that much time to get through the rest.
​
Click to expand...
Hallo @Rmazdra
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
Ho wis your work on the victory going?
 
uncchains said:
What was your reference for the width of the black and white bands on the painted side? I am building the Corel cross-section. I am trying to start at the water line (16mm below the lower gun ports (Ref: Bugler)) but its not balancing out quite right.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the delayed response. I actually don't remember how I came up with the width of the bands other than looking online at pictures of the real Victory and seeing other models. I wasn't researching too much of the detail at that stage of the build. I spent much more time researching when it came to the masts, yards, sails, and rigging. I also recall that on the upper part of the hull, there was a 2nd layer of planking. On the unpainted sides, this layer was made of coral wood. That wound up being my black layer on the painted side and so gave a perfect separation. I used the upper plank in a grouping to align with the bottom of the gunport openings.
 
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