Hms Victory by Caldercraft - Build Log

Just a quick update, just about done with the copper plates, almost 2 months later, a few left to do at the waterline that are being custom cut and then I will put the lack batten on, It is painfully obvious the difference in the sides now,, hopefully I can make it up canting the guns on the side that is too high. I am going to polish things up with brasso when done, and then put a .5mm X 2mm black batten around the waterline to seal the edge of the plates. I was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on product I could use to “paint on the plates” to seal them and protect them from oxidizing and turning green???

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Hi traumadoc,

My go to for covering Brass or Copper with a clear is this product it works really well,


It had a trade name of Incralac may years ago and is a Lacquer paint that dries fast also very runny, not sure if it is available over in your neck of the woods though.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
copper plating is done!!!! Yea!!!! I am now working on the gun carriages. The boat is upright again! I continue to struggle with the height of the gun ports vs the deck (as others have) , I thought I had misplaced the side gun port patterns but I think I finally have figured out the problem. When I was putting the deck in, there are two descriptions to get it down,, split it down the middle longwise, or make/cut the slots longer to allow it to fit over the the bulkheads. I chose to make the slots longer thinking that if I could keep the deck as a single piece it would keep the center holes lined jump better. Unfortunately by cutting the slots further back, the deck no long cants down as much as it should when it gets to the side of the ship as it wasn’t in enough contact with the bulkheads to hold it down. I will fix the problem by burring down the outer wheels on the cannons so they lay slightly lower to correct the problem.. I learned my lesson,, I won’t make that mistake again..

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copper plating is done!!!! Yea!!!! I am now working on the gun carriages. The boat is upright again! I continue to struggle with the height of the gun ports vs the deck (as others have) , I thought I had misplaced the side gun port patterns but I think I finally have figured out the problem. When I was putting the deck in, there are two descriptions to get it down,, split it down the middle longwise, or make/cut the slots longer to allow it to fit over the the bulkheads. I chose to make the slots longer thinking that if I could keep the deck as a single piece it would keep the center holes lined jump better. Unfortunately by cutting the slots further back, the deck no long cants down as much as it should when it gets to the side of the ship as it wasn’t in enough contact with the bulkheads to hold it down. I will fix the problem by burring down the outer wheels on the cannons so they lay slightly lower to correct the problem.. I learned my lesson,, I won’t make that mistake again..

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Good morning Doc. Well done with the copper plates. A massive task and looks good. The good thing with those cannons on the upper deck is that they are hardly visible as you progress so the adjustment will not be noticed. Cheers Grant
 
I would like to pose a question to the group,,, The directions say to paint the guns black and the gun muzzle painted red. I understand that the “corks” were painted red, but there are no corks in the guns when they are run out nor are they present in the brass cannons provided so it makes no sense to me to paint the mouths red as the directions state. Thoughts????
 
Like Kurt mentioned already correctly, not the muzzle is or was in the past painted red occre - it is only the plug (to protect against water coming in the muzzle)

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Here the manual and also the kit assembly photos by Jotika are wrong

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So the ship is back in the cradle, I have been working on guns galore for the upper gun deck painting the lower deck in plant guns while I am at it. I am not sure of the best way to rig the guns on the upper gun deck. The directions are very vague only saying rig the guns. There is a picture of the gun rigged in the directions, but not very clear. I found a. Great diagram but not sure I have the part in the kit to complete it, guess I can special order hooks, etc. thoughts????

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Hi traumadoc,

My go to for covering Brass or Copper with a clear is this product it works really well,


It had a trade name of Incralac may years ago and is a Lacquer paint that dries fast also very runny, not sure if it is available over in your neck of the woods though.

Cheers,
Stephen.
'Incralac', wonderful product for both interior and exterior coating. Didn't know it was still available.
 
And now the next puzzle,, part 389,, the upper deck screen bulkhead to Nelson’s quarters doesn’t even come close to fitting properly at bulkhead 13 as described, just spent the last 30 minutes, rereading what I have done in the past to see if I screwed up something to make it not fit so poorly,,, but it doesn’t look like it. I guess I will just cut it down to fit,, your not gonna be able to see it under the quarterdeck anyway.. Anybody else have this problem?????
 
I didn't have any issue with the fore/aft alignment but the partitions were about an eighth inch too tall to fit under the quarterdeck. I sanded them down from the top down as the top will really be invisible. The assembly went around the ship's wheel and binnacle with no issues.
 
I didn't have any issue with the fore/aft alignment but the partitions were about an eighth inch too tall to fit under the quarterdeck. I sanded them down from the top down as the top will really be invisible. The assembly went around the ship's wheel and binnacle with no issues.
Thanks,, my problem the part is far too wide, I am going to have to sand/cut down into the last “panels”. I agree the height differential is there, but minimal compared to the oversized in the width

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My apologies, I'm on the wrong deck!! On that lower deck, mine was also too long but I can assure you that it is absolutely invisible once the upper deck goes into place.
 
Would it be easier to cut slot in bulkwarks or what ever the inner planking of the gun desk is called. Looks like it would fit straight if those walls were slotted just a bit. The height issue sounds like they didn't account for deck plank thickness when designing part.
 
Would it be easier to cut slot in bulkwarks or what ever the inner planking of the gun desk is called. Looks like it would fit straight if those walls were slotted just a bit. The height issue sounds like they didn't account for deck plank thickness when designing part.
Yes, that is a great idea,, I also have been thinking about that,, but trying to figure out what too could cut it cleanly without a chance of ripping the wood,,, (Thinking of a small reciprocating bone saw now but don’t have one!)
 
I am struggling, I tried to revisit the copper plates , I bought some spray on enamel but I wanted to get them a little cleaner, so I tried Brasso, and then wright’s copper cream, but both leave residual that turns horrible green. The directions say to rinse it off, but I can’t but the boat in water I don’t think, So I am not sure what to do, I have tried polishing wheels galore but it leaves a fine powder on the hull, that I have have to wipe off with a damp cloth, which puts water on again, and turns things green again.. I am totally lost, I see all these pictures of these perfect copper bottoms and the plates went on well, but I can’t seem to get them finished properly..

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