Hms Victory by Caldercraft - Build Log

which is being constructed using 'home milled' anchor stock
Your jig is great. I have used something very similar but found I still had a lot of hand work necessary because no two pieces were the same except midships. Making them oversized as you have done sounds like a good solution. While a different ship the below planking expansion probably explains the various shapes of each piece of the wales better than words.
Allan
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I don't know. They look fine, it's hard to keep the ratlines straight. I'm doing them right now with a template pinned behind and some seem to tail off. Is what it is.

As for the deadeyes. The lower ones were easy and I was able to use a full spacer for them and the lowers came out more even. For the upper deadeyes, I did one and then tried to keep the others equal to the first. That didn't work too well, but close enough. Mine appear about the same as yours. Some good, some a bit too high or low. Eh....

I was surprised there wasn't the inclusion of sails or at least an after market kit for sails. I'm not sure if full sails would look good on the model, I think they would just look fake. However....folded sails would look great! I've seen a couple of logs were builders created mini versions of the sails that are rolled up and secured to the various yards, booms and stays. Perhaps the next model!!!

Keep plugging away. I thing this part of the build is the last of the tedious tasks. Once you finish the ratlines and shrouds, the rest of the rigging and yard installations should be fun. Hard for sure, but fun!
Many modelers do not add full sails as they can and do hide the work one does with the rigging. I did not rig sails on my HMS VICTORY for that reason. Rolled up sails can be attached using a period-typical method. I did this on my Portsmouth. If you have, or can get, copies of Ship Modeling Simplified, by Frank Mastini and Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld, you will find a good bit of info about rigging sails furled and unfurled. In SMS, see pages 94-96 and in HSM, pages 248 - 269 for more than you probably need to know.
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Many modelers do not add full sails as they can and do hide the work one does with the rigging. I did not rig sails on my HMS VICTORY for that reason. Rolled up sails can be attached using a period-typical method. I did this on my Portsmouth. If you have, or can get, copies of Ship Modeling Simplified, by Frank Mastini and Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld, you will find a good bit of info about rigging sails furled and unfurled. In SMS, see pages 94-96 and in HSM, pages 248 - 269 for more than you probably need to know.
I think those pics with furled sails look great. As you say, they wouldn't detract from the model and to Alan's point, trying to create sails at this small scale isn't going to work. I think if someone is bent on making full sails at a 1:70ish scale, all of the stitching would really have to be printed. But then adding all the reefing lines and more...a lot of work!
 
I think those pics with furled sails look great. As you say, they wouldn't detract from the model and to Alan's point, trying to create sails at this small scale isn't going to work. I think if someone is bent on making full sails at a 1:70ish scale, all of the stitching would really have to be printed. But then adding all the reefing lines and more...a lot of work!
While I agree that the out of scale stitching on model sails is a problem, sometimes it is overstated. Yes, sails can block view of rigging and deck details to a good degree. Of course, sail cloth looks the best on a scale model with sails furled or fartheled, and hanging the sail cloth limply from the yards makes the cloth look out of scale, but is starched and billowed, sails can look very nice. They can breathe life into your model similar to filling the deck and rigging with modeled sailor figures, such as in Doris Obručová's HMS Sovereign of the Seas (bottom). To me, a ship without sails is like a car without wheels, which is a personal preference for making models. What matters most is achieving the appearance you desire.

La Couronne, 1:100 scale
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HMS Sovereign of the Seas
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While I agree that the out of scale stitching on model sails is a problem, sometimes it is overstated. Yes, sails can block view of rigging and deck details to a good degree. Of course, sail cloth looks the best on a scale model with sails furled or fartheled, and hanging the sail cloth limply from the yards makes the cloth look out of scale, but is starched and billowed, sails can look very nice. They can breathe life into your model similar to filling the deck and rigging with modeled sailor figures, such as in Doris Obručová's HMS Sovereign of the Seas (bottom). To me, a ship without sails is like a car without wheels, which is a personal preference for making models. What matters most is achieving the appearance you desire.

La Couronne, 1:100 scale


HMS Sovereign of the Seas
I think that if the sails can be starched to show fullness, that would be perfect. Those are perfect examples of what options there are.
For me, I'd love to add sails, but this is my first wooden model and the plans don't really show how sails would be rigged. This would require outside references and a lot of research of other builds to get my bearings.

That will be a task for the next model!!!!!
 
I think that if the sails can be starched to show fullness, that would be perfect. Those are perfect examples of what options there are.
For me, I'd love to add sails, but this is my first wooden model and the plans don't really show how sails would be rigged. This would require outside references and a lot of research of other builds to get my bearings.

That will be a task for the next model!!!!!
My first model kit instructions didn't show the running rigging for sails either, so I had to look to books and other sources to learn what the typical lines for operating the sails were and how they were typically rigged. For my 17th century ship, the choice of books was simple (The Rigging of Ships in the Days of Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720 by Roger C. Anderson, and Construction of the Model of La Couronne, French Vessel of 1636 by Vincenzo Lusci), the latter being very scarce and written in Italian. For HMS Victory, there are many contemporary books out there on how to rig the ship. John McKay's book "Anatomy of a Ship" may be one. Be prepared to translate a book course into your native language, since many truly great books are found across the world. The trick is finding them and purchasing them, and that could be quite a hunt. Ask other forum members if they know of book specific to your ship. If not, you have to rely on books that decribe rigging in a more general search, and that would mean you have to make more guesses as to how the lines are routed (roved) and wher they are belayed.

Sources may also include period contemporary images such as paintings and engravings like this, which give you general information on the arrangement, block locations, and routing of the lines:
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You will have to gather research information and make a sail and rigging plan, choosing between elements that differ between your sources. Sources could include rigging instructions from other kits. For my ship, these I used the plans attached below to create a sail plan to determine the dimensions of the sails. The size of the sails was also derive by measuring the yardarms, and the vertical distance between the yards after they were rigged to the masts.
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These plans show rigging for a 17th century European continental (French) ship. English rigging has notable differences in a few lines, particularly the lifts, which support the outer ends of the yards. Choose the rigging style that matches your model.
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Then for each line, you need to know where to secure it at the deck or in the tops. For that, you need to develop a belaying plan like this from your sources:
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Once you are familiar what all the sail handling lines are called by name, and have your rigging plan, belaying plan, and sail plan prepared, you are ready to make the sails. For this, Ohla Batchvarov's tutorial on cutting and sewing sails is truly excellent.

Making billowed sails requires a few extra steps, but the final effect is incredibly lifelike. A 97% cotton, 3% spandex cloth material stretches well and holds its shape when starched and dried on a sail stretching jig your construct yourself.

For more details, see my build log for La Couronne.
 

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