I use superglue,, I am allergic to the regular one, so I have to use the gold foamless, it isn’t as good and easy to use, but it works.
Hms Victory by Caldercraft - Build Log
- Thread starter traumadoc
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For those of you following my posts, I have a few observations/questions to post to the group, Would appreciate an answer. While the documentation for the victory hull component I found to be very good, I am starting to struggle with the rigging. There are many inconsistencies,, parts mentioned that are not in the inventory. (10mm blocks for the jeers among others) as well as the mast rings not matching up correctly. I have already bought extra mast rings to compensate,, I emailed Jotika about the missing 10mm block for the for and main jeers as well as other I have found hoping they will guide me. Also I am noticing inconsistencies in the plans… on the plans for the construction for yards, (sheet 7) the blocks on the top masts are positioned differently than they are on the plans for mast/yard rigging attachments (sheets 9/10). Lastly when I built my vanguard (Amati rigging diagrams were superb) the braces had sister blocks attached to the yards at the end of the attachments, but the Victory plans call for regular bocks??. Is this just the kit being cheap??? Does anyone know which is correct. I looked in some books and can’t seem to bind he answer. Being a surgeon I am obsessive compulsive about stuff like this. I am attaching copies of the plans to document one of my points,,, you can see the plans call for 10 mm blocks on the jeers but the listing of parts don’t list them in the parts and indeed they are not there…. Thoughts. Really appreciate any thoughts the group has…
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Hi there. I am a bit behind you, but I selfishly USE YOU to keep me on track. It is very much appreciated.
I think the 10mm double and triple jeer blocks are cut out of the 4mm walnut stock and are parts #95 & 96.
The plans and instructions can be a pain. There are many places (at least where I am working on the final hull assemblies) where there is no reference in the instructions as to where a part is or where it goes, but there may be a hidden or obscure reference to a part in one of the full size blueprints.
Or in the worst case, only a reference in the parts list.
I can't help with any of your rigging yet, as I have not opened those plans.
I think the 10mm double and triple jeer blocks are cut out of the 4mm walnut stock and are parts #95 & 96.
The plans and instructions can be a pain. There are many places (at least where I am working on the final hull assemblies) where there is no reference in the instructions as to where a part is or where it goes, but there may be a hidden or obscure reference to a part in one of the full size blueprints.
Or in the worst case, only a reference in the parts list.
I can't help with any of your rigging yet, as I have not opened those plans.
Thanks so much!!! Yes, I see the parts 95/96 now,,, they are horrible, I can’t imagine I will be able to “carve” them to make them look respectable, so I guess it is time to go out and purchase a few blocks,, I will work on it.. Yes, I custom made the mast cap saddles not realizing they were in the parts, actually the ones I hand made came out better I think. Also the block on the gaff I hand made before I realized it was in the parts, just unlabeled on the plans..
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Not sure if you've done this, but I downloaded the 3 building logs that come with the kit from the JoTika website (Victory Manuals)
I can easily search for anything in them, including part numbers, item names, etc. That's how I found your parts and how I was able to discern where un-named parts in the build go.
I wish they had turned the blueprint plans into PDF's too, but I suppose then a good builder would be able to build the ship with just the plans.
Thanks!
Chris
I can easily search for anything in them, including part numbers, item names, etc. That's how I found your parts and how I was able to discern where un-named parts in the build go.
I wish they had turned the blueprint plans into PDF's too, but I suppose then a good builder would be able to build the ship with just the plans.
Thanks!
Chris
Yes, thanks,, I have them downloaded, I have searched for part numbers but never put oppoosite idea in place to search the parts inventory…. Thanks,,
Very useful indeed
I'll definitely download them
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Did you take any step by step pics when you built the bowsprit and masts? I love the final results, love to see what you did.
I'm waiting on paints to dry before tackling the hammocks and opened up the rigging manual. I tapered the bowsprit and pulled most of the parts off their wood sprues, but man the blue prints seem greek to me!!!!
I'm waiting on paints to dry before tackling the hammocks and opened up the rigging manual. I tapered the bowsprit and pulled most of the parts off their wood sprues, but man the blue prints seem greek to me!!!!
Using the formulas in Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, the main stay for Victory was a little under 14" in circumference. The jeers were 0.45 X 14"which is about 6", therefore the blocks were about 4X6= 24", At 1:72 this is about 8.5mm. I THINK 10mm is out of scale. IMHO the ultimate book on mast and yard making and proper rigging for English Ships between 1625 and 1860 is Lee's book and used copies are available for under $70.
Allan.
I have not been taking as many pictures as I should. But I used a tutorial form Lauk street to build my vanguard and am using the same same process. Start by shaping the yards/etc as per plan sheet 7. I used a small lathe from proxxon that I love, (it is very zen for me to sit and turn the masts and yards), one of my favorite parts. I then paint them and attach the rigging blocks etc as per sheets, I am dry pinning the yards up now and then I remove before I start the shrouds.
I see a well-organised bench, just like mine!
In fact it could be mine!
Probably a bit late now, but what I would have suggested, regarding yellow paint, was to buy enough tinlets to complete (+allowing for retouching), then pour them all in a bigger container & stir well, thereby producing a single shade.
If you use odourless CA, it does not fog, I've just used it on my Vic's 1/4 galleries.
DittoI see a well-organised bench, just like mine!
Ditto againDitto
Well I have a question for the group. According to the directions the lanyards for the shroud deadeyes on both the lower and top shrouds is supposed to be to be 0.5 natural. According to Nepean the main laniards 5.5 “ (page 230) and the top mast laniards are 3.5” page 231 so I am going to change form the directions and use .25 natural for the laniards on the top mast shrouds. (And the top mast deadeyes are so small they barely take a .5 through the holes. I would have to redrill the holes it seems with a .6mm drill to get them to go, just barely.) It bothers me to ignore the directions, but I think this will be better and more realistic. I am finding myself changing more than I thought I would from the directions on this boat.
My wife came in and looked at the boat and commented it looked like the boat was getting a hair tinting with all the shrouds in tape to keep each one labeled and straight for when I tied them to the lower deadeyes. I know it is premature, but starting to think about the next project,,, I was hoping the Chris Watton’s 1/64 Victory would be out, but that seems indefinitely postponed.. so not sure where to think about next. I need something I am interested in to keep going, so will stick with warships and I would like to find one that I can put the sails on with good instructions for a novice.
My wife came in and looked at the boat and commented it looked like the boat was getting a hair tinting with all the shrouds in tape to keep each one labeled and straight for when I tied them to the lower deadeyes. I know it is premature, but starting to think about the next project,,, I was hoping the Chris Watton’s 1/64 Victory would be out, but that seems indefinitely postponed.. so not sure where to think about next. I need something I am interested in to keep going, so will stick with warships and I would like to find one that I can put the sails on with good instructions for a novice.
It has been a little while since I have posted,, lots of trying things and not being happy with the outcome and trying to repeat and make better, but I think I am getting to the point where I am just making some things worse. I still haven’t gotten the dead eyes straight but I will settle for the way they are. the next time I will do each one individually rather than do them all together in stages with the spacer. Forgive some of the tails still being on, I try to keep them untill I am finally done, so I can make adjustments as I go. The rat lines on the top were slow, but done finally. I am really thinking I would like to put sails on this, but there no directions for sails in the kit really, so I am not sure how to proceed. Would appreciate any thoughts/input on how to proceed (if I should try to put sails on ). Thanks for all the support and comments in the group. Very much appreciated.
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I don't know. They look fine, it's hard to keep the ratlines straight. I'm doing them right now with a template pinned behind and some seem to tail off. Is what it is.
As for the deadeyes. The lower ones were easy and I was able to use a full spacer for them and the lowers came out more even. For the upper deadeyes, I did one and then tried to keep the others equal to the first. That didn't work too well, but close enough. Mine appear about the same as yours. Some good, some a bit too high or low. Eh....
I was surprised there wasn't the inclusion of sails or at least an after market kit for sails. I'm not sure if full sails would look good on the model, I think they would just look fake. However....folded sails would look great! I've seen a couple of logs were builders created mini versions of the sails that are rolled up and secured to the various yards, booms and stays. Perhaps the next model!!!
Keep plugging away. I thing this part of the build is the last of the tedious tasks. Once you finish the ratlines and shrouds, the rest of the rigging and yard installations should be fun. Hard for sure, but fun!
As for the deadeyes. The lower ones were easy and I was able to use a full spacer for them and the lowers came out more even. For the upper deadeyes, I did one and then tried to keep the others equal to the first. That didn't work too well, but close enough. Mine appear about the same as yours. Some good, some a bit too high or low. Eh....
I was surprised there wasn't the inclusion of sails or at least an after market kit for sails. I'm not sure if full sails would look good on the model, I think they would just look fake. However....folded sails would look great! I've seen a couple of logs were builders created mini versions of the sails that are rolled up and secured to the various yards, booms and stays. Perhaps the next model!!!
Keep plugging away. I thing this part of the build is the last of the tedious tasks. Once you finish the ratlines and shrouds, the rest of the rigging and yard installations should be fun. Hard for sure, but fun!
Cloth and sewing methods at your scale do not exist. Most look awful, more like giant weaved burlap than canvas but you might consider silk span as an alternative. This is not a new problem. If you look at the fully rigged models on the RMG Collections site and at Preble Hall and there are very few contemporary examples larger than sloops with sails. If you leave them off you will be in excellent company. 
Allan
Allan
I'm in the process of fitting the main wale, which is being constructed using 'home milled' anchor stock out of 2mm x 7 x 100 Swiss pear planks, made to Magowan & Mckay's plan dimensions. Having them 2mm gives a bit more 'meat' for final sanding, at the same time I cleaning up the lower gunports to give a final fit to the lids, to which I'm gluing the pieces of wale removed, as per prototype (provided my info is correct) 
. I've never yet found the need to use a spacer for shroud deadeyes, I lash them in situ, loose enough to be infinitely adjustable to level up before finally tightening. I bought a set of sails from ZHL (£47) which look fine, although one or two are a bit shorter (top to bottom) than the dimensions given in the two books, but slight height adjustment of the yards could compensate. My intension is to use the square sails, not the stay sails, in any case I propose to have the course sail partially furled. If this fails, then I could try making my own on my new, unused, sewing machine
I tested some black ebony wood dye on the pear - it gives a slight brown tint similar to a dark burnt umber, but also gives a good undercoat for blck/dark grey paint.
Some photos of the milling jig & the 'yellow' I've decided on, yellow ochre & white, which I like as a 'happy'medium', 50/50 yellow & white, as records show, is too creamy to me, although I've seen some paintings of the time showing a cream colour, similar to 'Montanes'. I am considering having the lower ports closed?
The jig is made from a piece of copper faced circuit board, brass strip filed to profile & soldered to brass angle. One side soldered to base, the other with two screws for adjustment/clamping. The support blocks are machined to the appropriate angles. If I were to make it again, I would use a wider base & angle to give more adjustment, as it is, 14 or 15 2mm planks fit at a time. The finished plank is 3.5 - 4.0mm at the ends x 6.0 at the widest. A bit of final sanding is required to some for a tight fit.
. I've never yet found the need to use a spacer for shroud deadeyes, I lash them in situ, loose enough to be infinitely adjustable to level up before finally tightening. I bought a set of sails from ZHL (£47) which look fine, although one or two are a bit shorter (top to bottom) than the dimensions given in the two books, but slight height adjustment of the yards could compensate. My intension is to use the square sails, not the stay sails, in any case I propose to have the course sail partially furled. If this fails, then I could try making my own on my new, unused, sewing machineI tested some black ebony wood dye on the pear - it gives a slight brown tint similar to a dark burnt umber, but also gives a good undercoat for blck/dark grey paint.
Some photos of the milling jig & the 'yellow' I've decided on, yellow ochre & white, which I like as a 'happy'medium', 50/50 yellow & white, as records show, is too creamy to me, although I've seen some paintings of the time showing a cream colour, similar to 'Montanes'. I am considering having the lower ports closed?
The jig is made from a piece of copper faced circuit board, brass strip filed to profile & soldered to brass angle. One side soldered to base, the other with two screws for adjustment/clamping. The support blocks are machined to the appropriate angles. If I were to make it again, I would use a wider base & angle to give more adjustment, as it is, 14 or 15 2mm planks fit at a time. The finished plank is 3.5 - 4.0mm at the ends x 6.0 at the widest. A bit of final sanding is required to some for a tight fit.