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HMS Victory by FifeModels - Artesania Latina - Scale 1/84 - Anatomy Version

They are. They were an attempt to air out the bilge and keep it a little cleaner and dryer. Not sure if they actually worked or just made it easier for the rats to move around. IIRC there should be a pair at the front and at the back of the bilge.
 
Thank you kindly Dominic,
Looking at a number of contemporary drawings and contracts I can't find these anywhere, so far . :) I was just curious to know what these various blocks were not having seen them before and it is not really important in the end as it will likely all be covered up never to be seen again.

Allan
Allan,
If you have the AotS book, look at #20 in the drawing of the hold. As others have stated, they are listed as Vent Trunks.
 
Looking further I did find ventilation scuttles that were in the sides of the hulls much like sweep ports. These came into use in the RN in 1778. But this is nothing like the blocks in the bottom of the ship. I do not understand how this box can add fresh air to the ship as it is below the waterline. Or, was it some sort of pump to just move the stagnant air around the hold rather than introduce fresh air. I also found information in Lavery's The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War on the bellows ventilator created by Dr. Hale in 1754 but this was up high to pump fresh air down into the lower decks for an hour each watch when the gun ports were closed. He also mentions windsail tents and White's ventilator of 1794, but gives no details. He does give a lot of information on heating including drawings of the 1783 hot air ventilator but it looks nothing like the boxes in the photos above. Hope someone can find more information, the ventilation issue is truly interesting.
Allan
 
Video #6 Complete

Video 6 is done, which was adding support pillars and various cargo.

For the pillars, I found it easier to source the cross beams and use those for reference to get the correct height, and made some further adjustments to the compartment walls.

Thanks

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Video #7 Complete



And video 7 is done. Pretty straight forward this one.

The wood for the beams is quite soft so the tool for making a groove works really well, but even if you don't have that, the pointed end of a needle file will work just as well.

In hindsight I would have piggybacked the wiring into the next set and so on just as with the upper decks, just so you don't end up with as many wires.

I didn't paint the frame for the lanterns as my hands weren't cooperating the last few days.

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Hey Doninic
In Alan Mcgowan's book on HMS Victory there is this drawing where the block or blocks are marked. I think they serve to stabilize the hull, because that's where the focmast and the bowsprit are. This means that the bow is naturally exposed to greater pressure from the forward pull.
I hope you understand what I mean. Sorry my English is not so good.
Greetings Günter
Bildvorschau
 
Video #8 Complete


Video 8 is done. Stern compartments. Not fantastic but given it will be very hard to see it will do.

For the bow compartment I may paint the parts on the fret first, I think I will get a smoother finish.

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Hallo Dominic,

das sieht schon mal gut aus!!! Weiter so. Ich bin gespannt, wie es weitergeht.

Frage: Die Terrassenverbindungen auf dem 2. Bild sehen etwas seltsam aus, als ob die Dielen höher wären. Gibt es beim Zusammenfügen der Terrassen einen Überhang der Dielen? Kann man das verbessern oder muss man damit leben?

Beste grüße
Günther Schiff-1

PS: Ich hoffe, Sie verstehen, was ich meine?
 
Hallo Dominic,

das sieht schon mal gut aus!!! Weiter so. Ich bin gespannt, wie es weitergeht.

Frage: Die Terrassenverbindungen auf dem 2. Bild sehen etwas seltsam aus, als ob die Dielen höher wären. Gibt es beim Zusammenfügen der Terrassen einen Überhang der Dielen? Kann man das verbessern oder muss man damit leben?

Beste grüße
Günther Schiff-1

PS: Ich hoffe, Sie verstehen, was ich meine?
Hallo.

Ich habe Google Translate dafür verwendet und hoffe, es ist verständlich.

Die Fugen der Decks: Ein Ende der Fugen liegt über einem Balken/Pumpenhaus, das andere nicht. Das Ergebnis, zusätzlich zu dem, was praktisch ein doppelter Laserbrand ist, sind einige ziemlich schlechte und sichtbare Fugen.

In den offiziellen Bauvideos war es genauso, und in manchen Fällen sogar noch schlimmer.

Ich bin sicher, jemand mit besseren Fähigkeiten als ich könnte sie verbessern, aber da sie nach der Fertigstellung sehr schwer zu erkennen sein werden, besteht kein Grund zur Sorge.

Ich hoffe, Google hat das verständlich erklärt.

Danke.

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Hey Dominc,

thanks for your reply and I understood everything you said. Great!
You can't see it in the bottom section. But when you have built the upper decks. It's a strange solution that AL has done with the decks. I don't have a solution at hand right now either. I'd have to think about something. Great pictures and I wish you continued success. I'll stay tuned to your build report and look forward to new pictures.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1
 
Hey Dominc,

thanks for your reply and I understood everything you said. Great!
You can't see it in the bottom section. But when you have built the upper decks. It's a strange solution that AL has done with the decks. I don't have a solution at hand right now either. I'd have to think about something. Great pictures and I wish you continued success. I'll stay tuned to your build report and look forward to new pictures.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1
Yes normally when I am working with multi-part decks, that need to be planked anyway, I work the planks in so the joint ends up being invisible.

For example, in my Occre Flying Dutchman build, again the decks were in 4 pieces, but I was able to overlap the planks so the joint was almost completely hidden.
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