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This model remains at the top of the list for most stunning and meticulous works of its kind I have ever had the pleasure of following.
HMS Victory by Y.T.- Mamoli - 1:90 scale
Thanks, Peter.
Recently I learned I do not have 3 mm diameter deadeyes for my model. My Mamoli kit ignored the fact that about 100 pieces are required. I wanted to master the technique of making the deadeyes for a long time. Recently I found amazing construction report by @archjofo. He is doing incredible job of building his model from scratch with extremely fine details. See the link to his log here if you want LINK. I asked him how he makes the deadeyes and he was very kind explaining to me this in detail. I sat yesterday and was able to make some 3 mm deadeye blanks of very decent quality. Today I already have 30 blanks ready to be drilled for the "eyes". I will be posting my process below.
Deadeyes are 3 mm diameter made of boxwood. Below are pictures in sequence.
1) I made a tool.
2) cutting on unimat lathe from 3 mm diameter blank without secondary support.
3) pressing some steel bar from other side of cutter to compensate for stock deflection.
4) touching and shaping a central groove with diamond file tip.
5) shaping the front with diamond file.
6) separating with jewellers saw
7) tools used
8) some blanks produced so far. To me looking great!
Best regards.
Yuriy
1) I made a tool.
2) cutting on unimat lathe from 3 mm diameter blank without secondary support.
3) pressing some steel bar from other side of cutter to compensate for stock deflection.
4) touching and shaping a central groove with diamond file tip.
5) shaping the front with diamond file.
6) separating with jewellers saw
7) tools used
8) some blanks produced so far. To me looking great!
Best regards.
Yuriy
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When I have about 120 blanks I will drill the eyes using indexing tool I have.
Try now. Re-attached the pictures. Unfortunately they got loaded not in proper sequence.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Doing a large quantity is easier in mass production method for sure.
Looks like your off to a great start on your scratch building career.
Looks like your off to a great start on your scratch building career.
In general I am a lazy person. As example if I could buy high quality deadeyes cheaply, I would go for it. I tried
https://drydockmodelsandparts.com/collections/deadeyes
I need quite a lot. About over 100. Adding up taxes and shipping I am close to $100 CAD. Too much. Why buying them when I have all tools to make them and also to have lots of fun resolving problems in between?
https://drydockmodelsandparts.com/collections/deadeyes
I need quite a lot. About over 100. Adding up taxes and shipping I am close to $100 CAD. Too much. Why buying them when I have all tools to make them and also to have lots of fun resolving problems in between?
You don't have to buy, Yuri. It is a convenience for those who don't have tooling and materials. Making from scratch is always fun but also time-consuming.
.
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In contrast, Yuriy, I can buy 100 x 3mm for £8.00 from Cornwall MB, here in UK. But I do have a good stock from 'leftovers' & 'stocking-up'. I like your shop made profile tool.
Stuart
=
I also often buy materials from Cornwall. Great source for modelling materials supplies. Their deadeyes quality however leaves much to be desired. The three holes are drilled randomly. I cannot accept this.
Hmm... I guess, DryDock might give you a discount price if buying large quantities... @Dry-Dock Models & Parts
These two source are my preferred store for purchase from Canada. Between the two, I choose between quality or compromise and postage cost are appropriate for me. If I was from USA, the CONUS store would be preferred over Cornwall.
I agree, some don't 'qualify', mostly they're Amati. But then again, at 3mm the errors are not so noticeable as for bigger ones.
I have to make 32 chainplates for new 3 mm deadeyes I made. Here I want to describe the process. It is mostly for myself as I completely forgot how I did it last time and had to reinvent it again. Normally I would silver solder the piece of copper wire in a loop. This time I reshape the pre-made plates I did for a larger diameter deadeyes. This is why they look not as presentable as ones I would make from the start.
I selected a twist drill of suitable diameter. This one is 2,8 mm. I installed it into a wood slab as shown below. I also drove a nail of 0,55 diameter beside. Beside is also a straightend chain plate I took off a larger deadeye.
Then I put chain plate over drill stem and pull it down with a tool. So it takes a shape like so.
Then having the chain plate over the drill stem while pulling it with the tool I close the loop around the drill stem with round pliers.
I selected a twist drill of suitable diameter. This one is 2,8 mm. I installed it into a wood slab as shown below. I also drove a nail of 0,55 diameter beside. Beside is also a straightend chain plate I took off a larger deadeye.
Then I put chain plate over drill stem and pull it down with a tool. So it takes a shape like so.
Then having the chain plate over the drill stem while pulling it with the tool I close the loop around the drill stem with round pliers.
Now I got the shape as this. At this point it’s good time to blacken it but I will do it later.
After chain plate was blackened (here I omitted this step) I put dead eye into chain plate. Insert smaller end loop over the 0,55 mm nail stem. Tighten the larger loop over dead eye with round nose pliers pulling them away from the nail.
Here is the result.
After chain plate was blackened (here I omitted this step) I put dead eye into chain plate. Insert smaller end loop over the 0,55 mm nail stem. Tighten the larger loop over dead eye with round nose pliers pulling them away from the nail.
Here is the result.