I am sorry for not getting much progress with rigging of the model. My issue is that I am trying to stick to historical as much as I can. This presents so many problems I occasionally cannot progress for weeks.
As for me, everything is very good. The main thing is to make horizontal (steps) with thin thread, it will look great.I was also advised by respectable model ship builder that my lanyards were a bit too large size. This is also have being fixed.
Hi YT,First try of an open heart block for main stay. In reality it’s 26” tall. Here it’s 7.3 mm tall. Working by the drawing.
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I am in the process. Just turned the mice "bodies" for 4 rope diameters. See my post before above. Next need to wrap these "bodies" with darning yarn. I will show the results when ready. Work will be done using a Domanoff serving machine accessories.Did you make the mice as well?
Hi YT,I am in the process. Just turned the mice "bodies" for 4 rope diameters. See my post before above. Next need to wrap these "bodies" with darning yarn. I will show the results when ready. Work will be done using a Domanoff serving machine accessories.
Exactly, Jim. Time is valuable to me as it is the only commodity we can never get back. So I opt for convenience and, of course, Dry Dock's quality is unmatched, for the price, IMO.You don't have to buy, Yuri. It is a convenience for those who don't have tooling and materials. Making from scratch is always fun but also time-consuming.
Yuriy, thanks for taking the time to share your methodology, clearly, step, by step. I know this takes time away from the actual building of your Victory. It is appreciated. Illustrating your approach in order to help others is what SoS is all about. Your deadeyes and chain plate finished product is excellent. Really well done.Now I got the shape as this. At this point it’s good time to blacken it but I will do it later.
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After chain plate was blackened (here I omitted this step) I put dead eye into chain plate. Insert smaller end loop over the 0,55 mm nail stem. Tighten the larger loop over dead eye with round nose pliers pulling them away from the nail.
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Here is the result.
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Wow, how did you find that deal? I have both of those, at about 3X the cost you paid. I do have a few packaged extras with mine. Regardless, Sherline's quality is of the highest order and their technical support is super helpful. Even at the price I paid, it was a great investment for me, without question. If you're ok with the wheel dials, great, but for me and my eyesight, I found the DRO (Digital Read Out) an incredible option. Have fun with them.I cannot help but boasting that I just picked up Sherline mill and lathe locally for a fraction of price for a new ones. Something in close to a thousand dollars in US money. Metric, as I always wanted. With resettable zero hand wheels. Not brand new but in perfectly working condition. This is not necessarily going to improve my modelling quality but I always wanted to have these tools in my possession. Cheers.
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