Imperial yacht Uvalen by Falconet in 1:48 [COMPLETED BUILD]

[Walterone]

Before proceeding with the gunwale, deck and so on, I decided to paint the hull, 'cause later it would be more difficult to realize. And before painting it was necessary to make the rudder and its irons. I hate soldering, but in this case it was inevitable Yes, it's not a kit for beginners.
Unfortunately, I broke one brace during the process, but I found a substitute for it among the PE parts remained of my old Dagmar kit.

 

[BenD]

Soldering is no fun but the alternative is CA glue or Epoxy and they are not nearly as strong of a bond on metal.

Can't wait to see her painted!

 

[Walterone]

Soldering is no fun but the alternative is CA glue or Epoxy and they are not nearly as strong of a bond on metal.

You're absolutely right.

 

[Jimsky]

Soldering is no fun

Sorry for the offtopic @Walterone

Personally, I am not a big fan of soldering, but...soldering can be just as much fun as other processes. Yes, it could be very frustrating and as the result - disliked. But when it works the way you want it, the results are truly rewarding. In soldering, you have to follow strict rules. They are not hard to learn, though, but you have to follow them to achieve the desired goal. Here are some of my recommendations.

1. Make sure the material in question can be soldered. There are many metals that look exactly like brass\coper, but they are brass\copper plated alloys. It is impossible to solder them.
2. The surface must be absolutely clean from grease and oxidation. You may use sandpaper first to remove oxidation, then use kitchen vinegar to remove fingertips and other grease accumulated while sanding.
3. There shouldn't be NO GAPs between soldering parts. Always position parts as tight as possible, without any gap. Melted solder will not go into the gap.
4. A very important part in soldering playing 'flux', some of them paste while others are liquid. You have to experiment with what works for your given job better. I like a liquid flux, it is not as 'messy' as a paste.
5. Soldering iron is oftentimes undeservedly omitted from discussions, but choosing the right soldering iron - is half of success. If you soldering tinny parts (like PE), you don't need lots of heat. At the same time, you might need a small and precise soldering point to deliver just enough solder. Contrary, you will need more heat and a bigger soldering tip when soldering 5.0mm rods together.
6. While soldering, you have to 'play' with melted solder. Once you will learn the 'melted point', you will tackle your job with ease. You will tell the solder where to go! The solder will flow where the hottest temperature is.

Hope this will give you some ideas. These are just some of the points, I am personally using as the primer. Other's will chime in with their suggestions, for sure.

BTW, we have discussed only soft soldering tips, there is a hard soldering process using the torch...but that discussion is for another topic, and time

 

[Namabiiru]

I have found that soldering paste makes a huge difference when soldering small parts. I have a tube I ordered years ago and will probably last me the rest of my life. I keep it in the refrigerator when not in use.

I have also decided to paint the hull before installing the rails, but I’m getting as much work done on the decks and furniture as I can before I install the rudder. With all the handling, it is inevitable I will break the rudder before I am done.

 

[Walterone]

before I install the rudder. With all the handling, it is inevitable I will break the rudder before I am done.

You don't need to keep the rudder on it's place constantly. It's easily detachable.

 

[Namabiiru]

You don't need to keep the rudder on it's place constantly. It's easily detachable.

It’s very tight fit, but maybe once it’s installed it won’t feel so fragile. At least I did taper the pintles, which will help.

 

[Walterone]

The hull is now red and white. I'd say masking the clinker was a real challenge, so once painted I had to make many corrections with a small brush. The result isn't perfect but more or less suitable.

 

[Frank48]

The hull is now red and white. I'd say masking the clinker was a real challenge, so once painted I had to make many corrections with a small brush. The result isn't perfect but more or less suitable.

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Congratulations

 

[Walterone]

Congratulations

Thank you! Grazie!

 

[Namabiiru]

That looks great! I have been putting much thought into how I plan to address painting of the hull since I knew, as you pointed out, that masking the clinker hull would be a challenge. Did you brush paint or spray/airbrush?

 

[Walterone]

Did you brush paint or spray/airbrush?

The simpliest brush paint, 3-4 layers for each color.

 

[Walterone]

I want my model to look "aged", like a museum one. For weathering I used a bit of bitumen of Judea diluted with mineral spirit.

 

[Namabiiru]

That turned out very nice.

 

[Walterone]

"The name of the game"

 

[Walterone]

Before glueing this molding you need to shape it with the profile shaper 1.6.



The toptimbers are cut off, we are ready to glue the deck...



...and proceed with the cockpit. I added handles to the doors.

 

[Walterone]

The companion way. I made the door handles from small brass nails.

 

[Walterone]

The deck, the cockpit and the gunwale. I also painted the inner space of the cabin black.



The gunwale is doubled, it means that it has two layers of uniform details, but before glueing them together, you need to round their edges with the profile shaper 0.5 or simply with sandpaper. The result looks something like a sandwich.

 

[Walterone]

The waterways in theory must be shaped with the profile shaper 1.8, but I choose a more easy way and simply made their edges round with my rotary tool.

 

[Walterone]

The stages of making cockpit benches.




And a picture with my finger to evaluate the dimensions.