Paul, have a nice family time and rememberance, and the aft section of your Kingfisher looks awsome
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Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF
- Thread starter dockattner
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Beautiful workmanship Paul, so clean and finely crafted. A truly wonderful example to all aspiring newbie/wannabe framers.
Beautiful fairing job, Paul. Enjoy this time with your family!
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Paul, what and how are you sanding the inside of the frames? I will be at this stage soon...thanks
Hi Paul. I am enjoying following your build.
I wish I could be inspirational or edifying here, but I am only using sandpaper. Well, that's not precisely accurate...I'm using a rotary tool (Dremel knock-off with a sanding drum) for bulk removal and then 80 grit sandpaper on a small curved sanding block for rough shaping. I force myself to get the most out of this stage and then use 120 grit with the same sanding blocks to further refine the shape. It is easy to want to advance to finer grades of sandpaper but when I do that, I invariably return to coarser paper so I am learning to get the most I can out of the coarse papers. I am literally spending hours with a sanding wheel and 80 grit.
@Tobias has been using scrapers and getting GREAT results but I am uncertain when he moves from bulk removal to scrapers - perhaps he can advise....
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Wow, 80 grit is so coarse and using a power source to apply it. Boxwood must make pear wood seem like balsa wood. Just curious Paul, are all the other ships members like planking, mast, railings etc. made of boxwood?
Oh my, no! Not 80 grit in a power sander! I'm using a small sanding drum in a Dremel knockoff:
Then the power gets shut off and the rest is done by hand: 80 grit with a sanding block (then 120, then 180, then...).
Yes, the boxwood in the kit is considerably harder than pearwood. It eats sandpaper for lunch and dulls cutting edges without a passing thought. I now have a stropping board on my worktable just to extend the life of XActo blades...
As for the other parts: all the deck structure (and deck furnishings) are in boxwood. No masts are provided, and the plan right now is to just include stubs for an admiralty style model. There is very little planking/decking material provided so I will be supplementing that in order to plank the full hull on one side of the ship (though below the lowest wale my plan right now is to use American Holly and perhaps holly for the small amount of decking I will include).
Much of this is only in my head right now and those plans evolve on a weekly basis. I'm already six months into this build and I only have half of the frames in place. Not that it matters. My point is that I have lots of time to change my mind about things.
Hello Paul @dockattner first of all thank you for your compliment, @Paul132 now for sanding the inside of the frames, I prepare each frame slightly and that depends entirely on the area where the frame is. The frames in the stern and bow area are lightly sanded with 240 grit, in the middle sector they are only scratched. When everything is built and glued together, all you have to do is scratch. The exterior is roughly pre-sanded with a Delta grinder with 120 and then 240 grit, then scratched again and finally polished with 000 stainless steel wool. I hope I could help.
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Looking at a guys aft sections sounds a little personnel there! Ha Ha...
Kurt Konrath
Kurt Konrath
Tobias, looks like you have a great scraper collection, where did you buy them from?
Hello Kurt, I mainly buy from DICTUM, see the link. You can also get scrapers from Amazon, e.g. from the company Kirsch.
Ziehklingen | Dictum
Französische Ziehklingen verschiedener Formen als auch Ziehklingensätze im Sortiment des Fachhändlers DICTUM.
www.dictum.com
Nicely done!
Thank you for sharing your approach, @Tobias. Noteworthy is the precision of your original frame fabrication. You are clearly cutting to a fairly precise tolerance (I suspect 1 mm or less) so there is very little excess to be removed. Also, the frame pairs are joined which makes matching them up more 'controlled' (once you figure out which lines to follow on the patterns).
In my case, building from a kit, I would tell you that the cutting tolerances were less precise. Also, frame pairs are not joined on a swan class ship. For example, there is a space between 14 aft and 14 fore and that space is the same size as the gap between 14 fore and 13 aft (if that makes sense). Curious about this I checked and the frame patterns for 14 aft and 14 fore are almost the same - but in order to account for the flow of the lines of the ship each must necessary be cut oversized to allow for fairing across a fairly long distance. The result is lots of bulk wood removal just to eliminate the stepping between one frame pair and the next frame pair. While I'm curious to learn if this was a decision by Mr. Hunt (the kit builder) or is the frame pattern protocol found in TFFM (Antscherl) it doesn't really matter practically speaking.
Anyway, these are the random musings of an inexperienced builder who can do little more than marvel at the work Tobias (and others) are sharing with us on the forum. Unfortunately, I don't learn well by watching other people's work - I have to do something myself to appreciate what is happening. That said, the amount I have learned already on this POF build is very encouraging - I wish I would have discovered this hobby years ago!
Hello Paul, I try to work as close to the line as possible, leaving a maximum of a millimeter overhang to better compensate for irregularities. I totally agree with you the frames on French ships are completely different and also the fact that one is a kit and the other is a home build. But in a few years I can learn from your structure and refer to your protocol when I build my first English ship.
Entirely correct, so i changed it a bitLooking at a guys aft sections sounds a little personnel there! Ha Ha...
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Tobias, when you say scratching the mid timbers, do you mean scraping with the scraper blades? Thanks!
That's almost certainly correct Paul. Tobias is likely typing/writing in German and using a translator so sometimes it comes out a little funny.
Borrowing a page from my friend @Maarten 's playbook - I took a little project along with me on our recent holiday.
The Kingfisher had an early version of what would eventually be known as a Brodie Stove on board. Now, while more skilled builders would make this stove out of brass, I doubted my ability to fabricate and solder all of the necessary elements. I think I could have made a stove at 1:48 out of wood - but I decided to first try my hand at plastic.
To that end I reached out to Marc (@Hubac’s Historian) and asked about best practices when it came to working with plastics. He was very kind to offer me some advice along with material and glue recommendations. Naturally I would not be able to work at his level, but I have long been inspired by his excellent results.
In preparation I ordered the necessary supplies and packed everything up in a small box and off we went.
Cutting out parts:
Adding angled corner braces and edging:
Next...doors (oven, firebox, ashes, etc.), hinges door handles and latches, and some square bolts...
Here you can see the beginning of the chimney, the boiler with round and oval covers, and a pipe for a still:
Now accessorizing with grates, irons for pot hanging, and boiler discharge valves:
A rotisserie with drip tray, towel bars (?), lifting rings, part of the smokestack...and now sitting on an iron base...
Monster truck event (grandson number 2 having his best day ever):
More to come in the next post...
The Kingfisher had an early version of what would eventually be known as a Brodie Stove on board. Now, while more skilled builders would make this stove out of brass, I doubted my ability to fabricate and solder all of the necessary elements. I think I could have made a stove at 1:48 out of wood - but I decided to first try my hand at plastic.
To that end I reached out to Marc (@Hubac’s Historian) and asked about best practices when it came to working with plastics. He was very kind to offer me some advice along with material and glue recommendations. Naturally I would not be able to work at his level, but I have long been inspired by his excellent results.
In preparation I ordered the necessary supplies and packed everything up in a small box and off we went.
Cutting out parts:
Adding angled corner braces and edging:
Next...doors (oven, firebox, ashes, etc.), hinges door handles and latches, and some square bolts...
Here you can see the beginning of the chimney, the boiler with round and oval covers, and a pipe for a still:
Now accessorizing with grates, irons for pot hanging, and boiler discharge valves:
A rotisserie with drip tray, towel bars (?), lifting rings, part of the smokestack...and now sitting on an iron base...
Monster truck event (grandson number 2 having his best day ever):
More to come in the next post...