Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

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I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

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At the stern:

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And at the bow:

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A closer look at the top/butt planks:

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Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

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More progress...

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For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

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That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

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Your beautiful precision work continues, Paul. Such a skill level I can only strive for, but you provide inspiration.
 
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Superbe work Paul. Just amazing
 
The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

View attachment 403101

I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

View attachment 403104

At the stern:

View attachment 403105

And at the bow:

View attachment 403108

A closer look at the top/butt planks:

View attachment 403107

Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

View attachment 403109

More progress...

View attachment 403110

View attachment 403111

View attachment 403112

View attachment 403113

For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

View attachment 403102

View attachment 403103

That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

View attachment 403106
Amazing!! Can you come over and teach me how to plank!!:eek:
 
Thank you, Peter. But I believe YOU might be the master craftsman in this conversation! But it is true that I enjoy the hand-work of this hobby!

I think you all know what this means...

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Have fun with the drilling and the treenails, I think you will be busy for a while and I see you have a little trick up your sleeve. Great test piece and very nice contrast. One question as I'm not familiar with English ships. Do they only use treenails? On the French ships there is the peculiarity that below the waterline iron and tree nails are alternating and above the waterline only iron nails were used.
 
Have fun with the drilling and the treenails, I think you will be busy for a while and I see you have a little trick up your sleeve. Great test piece and very nice contrast. One question as I'm not familiar with English ships. Do they only use treenails? On the French ships there is the peculiarity that below the waterline iron and tree nails are alternating and above the waterline only iron nails were used.
My research seems to affirm that only wooden nails were used at this time on English ships. Antscherl (TFFM) is my primary source, and he refers specifically to wooden dowels throughout for the planking (on some large timbers of the centerline he suggests iron bolts). Of course, Ricci is using brass nails for his planking, but I believe that is an artistic choice, though perhaps it is a carry-over from his previous work on French vessels.

The photo I showed is from a week ago and I can only affirm that I WILL "be busy for a while" as you have wisely pointed out...there is no real way to make treenailing go fast(er). And there are many, many of them...so I just turn up the music and let my mind flitter about...
 
I think you all know what this means...
Good afternoon Paul….you going into that space where you drill little holes into little planks, for little wood dowels on a little ship….hmmmm ROTF .

Your test nailing looks really brilliant with a strong contrast. I would consider wether such a strong contrast is going to “jump” out too much when a gazillion little holes are finished…..? The darker wood will also stand out more when you seal, oil, poly depending what you are going to use. Maybe the close up photo accentuates the contrast more? Just some thoughts. Cheers Grant
 
Paul, what wood are you using for the treenails? It provides a nice, warm moderate contrast to the holly. And what are your thoughts on treenailing the black wales in terms of materials and finish?
Thanks,
Glenn
Good afternoon Paul….you going into that space where you drill little holes into little planks, for little wood dowels on a little ship….hmmmm ROTF .

Your test nailing looks really brilliant with a strong contrast. I would consider wether such a strong contrast is going to “jump” out too much when a gazillion little holes are finished…..? The darker wood will also stand out more when you seal, oil, poly depending what you are going to use. Maybe the close up photo accentuates the contrast more? Just some thoughts. Cheers Grant
Gentlemen, I'll take up your questions together...

As you pointed out, Glenn, the planking here is American Holly. I tried to make treenails from holly, but the wood is just too soft to be drawn down to the size I wanted using a drawplate. I might have been able to sand points onto little sticks of holly as @Tobias and @Alexander74 have shown on their builds, but that is a really labor intensive job and there are lots and lots of treenails to install (and I'm only doing half the hull). Kudos to anyone who uses that approach on a ship of any size.

Anyway, I was able to draw down boxwood to 0.56-0.58 mm and this is a good diameter for 1:48 scale. I am drilling 0.6 mm holes and the fit is very tight. Indeed, I am worried that some the treenails are not in the planking deep enough and will disappear when the hull is sanded (but that is easily solvable as long as it's not ALL of them!).

Grant, in the sample I showed the left side is boxwood and the right side is birch. I was expecting the birch to be lighter in color but as you can see it ended up darker once I applied some wipe-on poly. As you can see from my comments to Glenn (and as evidenced by the test on birch) I share your concern about having too great a contrast between the holly planking and the treenails. Then again, the amount of time it takes to treenail a hull seems to justify a bit of attention in the final product??? Or maybe this will turn into a trainwreck (I have a history of ruining hulls - see my Vasa build log...)...

As for the wales...I have yet to complete any tests...but the leading contenders are black treenails (I have black hornbeam) or brass nails. The hornbeam is sort of sticky so I could only draw it down to 0.68 mm but black on black should make them look 'smaller' to the extent that they won't be standing out. If I use brass, I suspect I will make the nails quite small, but the trials await. Burnished? Shiny? Not sure yet!
 
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Gentlemen, I'll take up your questions together...
Thank you Paul for the details, very interesting.

I'm down with brass for the wales, burnished or not. Can't wait to see which way you go.

I had such great luck with Tobias's method for treenails! I will do just about anything to avoid the frustration of drawing stock, never got the hang of it. I used birch toothpicks that I sharpened up a little more with a twisting zip on a disc sander (1/64" bit for 3/4" nails @1:48). The only limitation was that you can only get bamboo or birch toothpicks ready made. I liked the method so much I researched equipment to make toothpicks. By the time I was done researching, I was up to $25K of custom made equipment. I guess I could hang out a shingle and sell them online to defray costs. $5 pear toothpick anyone? For a name, I was thinking "Nails-a-Hoy"? I guess I should "pick" my battles.

Worrying about such an amazing hull is quite understandable, but I think everyone online has complete confidence in your choices and workmanship. I am sure your "ruined" is many peoples' "awesome".

Glenn
 
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