Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF

Hello Friends!

A rare second posting this week. I had a free day today so I turned my attention to the upper deck clamps (these support the upper deck beams). Once again the curvature at the bow required spiling of planks:

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And a careless moment led to this:

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That could have turned out worse!

Here are the installed upper deck clamps:

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Those familiar with this build diary know that I have been questioning how I should proceed with this build: what details should be built? how much of the inner structure should be left visible? how best to do that?

Well, an unspoken question has been: should I leave the model fully in wood tones or should I add some color?

That decision has now been made:

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This is where some of you think: I wouldn't have done that... ROTF
The black wales really set it off. The contrast seems to make it easier to see the amazing workmanship throughout rather than a sea of beautiful but monochromatic wood.
 
Can't believe I have been AWOL for almost a whole year with this build, must have missed the memo.Redface

What extraordinary workmanship, I am in envy and awe in what you have done here, but then I also shouldn't be surprised either knowing what you have built before.
 
Can't believe I have been AWOL for almost a whole year with this build, must have missed the memo.Redface

What extraordinary workmanship, I am in envy and awe in what you have done here, but then I also shouldn't be surprised either knowing what you have built before.
Thank you, Richie. You are very kind. And I'm glad you tracked me down!
 
The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

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I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

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At the stern:

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And at the bow:

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A closer look at the top/butt planks:

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Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

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More progress...

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For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

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That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

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The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

View attachment 403101

I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

View attachment 403104

At the stern:

View attachment 403105

And at the bow:

View attachment 403108

A closer look at the top/butt planks:

View attachment 403107

Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

View attachment 403109

More progress...

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For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

View attachment 403102

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That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

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Great job Paul. I’m always in awe of your attempts at perfection which you mostly achieve.
 
The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

View attachment 403101

I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

View attachment 403104

At the stern:

View attachment 403105

And at the bow:

View attachment 403108

A closer look at the top/butt planks:

View attachment 403107

Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

View attachment 403109

More progress...

View attachment 403110

View attachment 403111

View attachment 403112

View attachment 403113

For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

View attachment 403102

View attachment 403103

That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

View attachment 403106
Great to see how you manage this ‘planking’, Paul. It’s more ‘providing the hull with special shaped strips’.
Regards, Peter
 
The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

View attachment 403101

I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

View attachment 403104

At the stern:

View attachment 403105

And at the bow:

View attachment 403108

A closer look at the top/butt planks:

View attachment 403107

Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

View attachment 403109

More progress...

View attachment 403110

View attachment 403111

View attachment 403112

View attachment 403113

For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

View attachment 403102

View attachment 403103

That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

View attachment 403106
high quality work, rapid progress. Great work Paul, especially on the complex jointing of the runs of strakes.
 
This week I turned my attention to the main wale on the side of the ship that will be planked. There are three strakes in the main wale - a straight running upper strake and two rows of what is referred to as 'top and butt' pattern planking. Here is an image from TFFM that shows what I am talking about (note the darker gray band):

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After installing the straight upper row, I laid out the location of the butt joints and the top and butt pattern for the two lower rows:

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FYI: this forward portion of the wale is not correct. It should be 'thinned' as it approaches the rabbet. I have left it thicker for the time-being...(it does fit into the rabbet - it's just notched):

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I then decided to cut all the odd-shaped planks at the same time in order to ensure consistency.

First, I laid out the cuts just to keep my head wrapped around what I was doing:

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And then I used a power tool for the second time in a month! This is a Byrnes table saw with an angle cutting accessory (only took me an hour to figure out how to use it ROTF) (Full disclosure: one hour for the table saw - one hour for the taper gauge.)

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As I have mentioned previously, I have an unhealthy (nearly crippling) fear of power tools that cut my fingers off...

Installing planks:

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First sanding (note: there is a portion of the lowest strake not yet installed at the stern - it has to be impossibly shaped - still figuring out how to make it):

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A closer look:

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Thanks for looking in!
beautiful work!!
 
The following are a series of images that show my progress planking below the main wale (only one side of the ship will be planked - both inside and out). The wood species is American Holly. It is a joy to work with compared to the boxwood. It can be bent and shaped using heat only (avoiding the use of water speeds things up because I don't need to wait overnight for soaked or steamed wood strips to dry).

For heat I am using one of those plank benders based on a soldering iron for acute bends, as well as a heat gun (the kind used to remove paint) for more ordinary bends.

There are six rows of top/butt pattern planks and then straight planks below that.

I had to start somewhere...

View attachment 403101

I am using a tapering gauge on a mini table saw for these cuts. I think it is silly dangerous, but reproducibility was important for these pieces.

Two rows in place:

View attachment 403104

At the stern:

View attachment 403105

And at the bow:

View attachment 403108

A closer look at the top/butt planks:

View attachment 403107

Despite the workability of the wood - I continue to use sheet stock for many of these planks. In the image below you can see the cardstock template and a tracing of that template onto a sheet of 1.5 mm holly. An interesting shape!

View attachment 403109

More progress...

View attachment 403110

View attachment 403111

View attachment 403112

View attachment 403113

For the pieces that don't need to be cut on the table saw I am just using a miniature planer. Here is my setup: one slot for 1.5 mm stock and a second slot for 2.0 mm stock...

View attachment 403102

View attachment 403103

That's about it for now. I do appreciate that you take the time to visit!

View attachment 403106
Good evening Paul. Stunningly planked.Is the pattern common on these British Swan classes? . E .g on the Victory the “irregular “ butt pattern is used for the wale and then a regular below, while you carry this on below the wale for a while? To the waterline? Looks beautiful. Cheers Grant
 
Thank you, friends, for looking in on my build and for all the comments and likes!

Good evening Paul. Stunningly planked.Is the pattern common on these British Swan classes? . E .g on the Victory the “irregular “ butt pattern is used for the wale and then a regular below, while you carry this on below the wale for a while? To the waterline? Looks beautiful. Cheers Grant
Sorry, Grant. I'm just following the description in the book series I am using as a guide so I hope someone else can answer your question. I do know this was not limited to swan class ships nor was it limited to just the wales.

BTW - this top and butt planking also appears on the deck near the bulwarks (and it should have been used on the interior planking, but I chose to omit that for lack of visibility and to make the challenging interior planking a bit easier for me).
 
Thank you, friends, for looking in on my build and for all the comments and likes!


Sorry, Grant. I'm just following the description in the book series I am using as a guide so I hope someone else can answer your question. I do know this was not limited to swan class ships nor was it limited to just the wales.

BTW - this top and butt planking also appears on the deck near the bulwarks (and it should have been used on the interior planking, but I chose to omit that for lack of visibility and to make the challenging interior planking a bit easier for me).
Good morning Paul. I’m sure the authors of the book researched these ships and you have it accurate. It certainly makes for a brilliant visual representation as well so kudos Paul. Looks so cool and as always you owned it. Cheers Grant
 
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