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Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF
- Thread starter dockattner
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Thank you, Jeff!
No words needed. I like the work you show us too!
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As always perfect!!!
Hi Paul,
Which ship were you on? We just got back on the 14th after 11 fantastic days on the Celebrity Beyond, our new favorite ship. We love both sides of St. Marten, especially Grand Case, and snorkeling at Prickly Pear Island on the north side of Anguilla.
Allan
How did you mill/create the rail just forward of the windlass?
Thanks, Sergey. Certainly not perfect but I enjoy the pursuit.
Hi Allan,
Norwegian Viva out of San Juan. As a rule we are small ship and riverboat cruisers those rare times when we do that sort of travel. We were experimenting with some special accommodations on NCL (The Haven) to see if that might open up some other options as we age out of more adventurous vacations.
Here you go:
Kingfisher 1770 1:48 POF
my dear friend wonderful work on the wheel an excellent millwork
shipsofscale.com
I’m with Sergey here…
I get it, that is why we switched to Celebrity the past couple years.
Thanks. It certainly helps to have good tools. I may have to look into getting a mini-lathe when I resume my VASA. Any suggestions on a good brand?I am planning to buy a X-Y table for my Dremel tool drill press (when they are once again in stock).Hello friends,
Work continues building out the quarter deck...
But first a short diversion to scratch the itch created by my forum friend Dirk (@Dubz Modelling World). The guns carriages have now been fitted with smaller eyebolts (the quoin will be displayed on the deck alongside the gun):
View attachment 484471
And now returning to the subject of this post: the quarter deck breastworks. This is a guardrail of sorts that sits at the forward edge of the quarter deck. It has five posts, two rails with square holes, 10 sheaves in pairs of two, and follows the camber/roundup of the deck. In other words, there is a lot going on for what appears, on the surface, to be a simple railing.
After spending on inordinate amount of time looking at drawings of the breastwork and imagineering how I was going to get all the moving parts placed correctly...I took out my mini-lathe and made up some posts/stanchions:
View attachment 484462
View attachment 484463
Next, I wanted to profile the edge of the rails, and I chose to do this on the small mill:
View attachment 484464
The posts pass through the rails in square holes:
View attachment 484465
View attachment 484466
And now cleaned up:
View attachment 484467
As you can see, I made up some extra posts. And you can also see that they are all different. There is a way of making a pattern duplicator for a lathe - and I should have done that a long time ago - but I didn't realize how often I would want to use it. In the end I neglected to follow the clear advice of Mr. Antscherl in TFFM in favor of expediency and am paying the price for that decision.
On we go. I then used the small mill to cut slots for the sheaves. The learning curve on this was that I need a better mill (with a digital readout), and I need a better way of securing parts to the bed of the mill (better than double sided tape). Then again, I did manage to squeeze out five usable parts from the seven that started the journey.
View attachment 484468
The rails were then bent to follow the camber of the deck, cut to their final length, and profiled on their ends:
View attachment 484469
The next trick was to drill holes in the quarter deck in the absolute perfect location to receive the pins I had placed in the foot of the posts (it might seem odd to post a picture of five holes, but this exercise was painstaking and deserved to be memorialized with its own photo
View attachment 484470
And here you go:
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And that, dear friends, is how you lose yourself in a model for a week. Thanks for the visit!
I'm no expert...but the mini-mill I bought is from Proxxon: MF 70. It lacks a digital readout and it cannot use larger milling heads - but if you take some care thinking through set-up and such I've found it very helpful. Oh, its also sort of screeching loud so I use hearing protection. I'm sure there are better machines - but then you bump up against cost...
If you are asking about a mini-lathe then I just use a cheap version from Amazon. Less than $50 if I remember right.
Thanks! That is most helpful.
FWIW, I spent about an hour yesterday looking at various lathes and purchaser/user comments on Amazon and was a bit disappointed with what I found. Some were hard to set up. Others had power issues from poor connections to lack thereof. Those tools that were included with some were reported to be of poor quality. I may end up having to pay a bit more for a better quality, slightly larger lathe and better shaping tools. I am not in a hurry and will keep looking.
Now you have me wondering... what are you wanting to use this lathe for?
I have a bench-top wood lathe I used to make the spars on my Vasa. But I have been using a small desk-top lathe to turn the decorative posts and such on the Kingfisher. I could never make the tiny decorative posts on the bench-top lathe, and I could never make spars on the small desk-top lathe.
Anyway, for me, the purpose drives the choice of tool. The desk-top lathe can be a cheapo thing because I'm not asking much of it (and if it breaks, I'll just buy another one). I don't even use wood-turning tools (only files and sandpaper). But I think the bench-top lathe should be of somewhat better quality because it will be asked to do a bit more work.
My kids bought me a small metal-working lathe for Christmas, but it hasn't been set up, so I haven't attempted creating anything with it yet.
Paul makes some good points, especially with his question “what are you wanting to use the lathe for?”. It is very valid.
I have a Rikon 70-100 mini lathe, which I use for general purpose turned items as well as model ship parts. The limitation is trying to turn very small parts so I purchased a chuck for the headstock that, with careful setup, allows for some limited small parts turning with mini tools, sandpaper, needle files etc. I do not have a mini desk top lathe but have my eye on one for the future.
The Rikon 70-100 will sit on a bench but I have a stand for it. One of the things to consider with wood turning is eliminating vibration as much as possible. Vibration will affect your turning so I dampen the machine by placing it on a piece of carpeting on a solid floor and ensure the lathe is well secured on its stand. Good quality turning tools are a must and there are mini ones available. I have a mini set of Henry Taylor and a small roughing gouge as well. Then you have to also consider sharpening your gouging tools, chisels, parting tools etc., another expense. Considering the accessories you need, in addition to the lathe, it can get costly. I bought the Rikon because I was wood turning on a 1000mm wood lathe decades ago and missed the fun of it. I made toys for challenged kids in my spare time as a volunteer and even beer pump handles for pubs. The kids didn’t get the beer of course
.This then comes full circle back to Paul’s question about usage. Ideally having a mini lathe like the Rikon, or similar, and a small desk top lathe as well opens your options enormously. If I was starting out now, only as a modeller, I’d probably go for the desk top mini lathe first.
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Once again Paul, WOW! I'm out of superlative adjectives. Whenever I view your beautiful photos, I look for any evidence of glue, evidence that you are human, and err, no luck! I have trouble believing this is only your second ship model. Clearly, this model was a step up from your Vasa from the challenge perspective, and you seem to have no issues in meeting it and producing a wonderful example of quality work.
I do have two questions if you'd allow me. It goes back to work you've completed long ago on the model.
1) Would you offer some perspective on the way you've achieved your grate cutaways? I like the asymmetrical examples. It draws my eyes to the grate.
2) How did you achieve that acute bend of the lower wales into the transom rabbit?
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Hi Ken, a very nice post...my sincere thanks.
1) In order to fabricate the cutaway grates I built the grate (or a portion of the grate) in the normal manner... and then very carefully nibbled away whatever portions I wanted to remove in order to create an irregular edge. It is all very fragile, so it takes a careful hand.
2) I have learned that I cannot edge bend planks very well. To that end I create a paper/cardstock template for pieces that need to be curved that much (on both the exterior as well as the interior of the hull) and cut them from board stock of an appropriate thickness (in this case I think it was 2 (3?) mm stock). Now you only need to bend the plank under moisture and heat and refine the plank-to-plank join. Easy once you accept that spiling is the best approach (which seems like a pain but once you get used to doing it proceeds rather efficiently).
Pretty much the same as you, turning spars, stanchions, other round objects when I finish my VICTORY cross-section and resume work on my VASA. I have begun the initial planking but decided to focus on the VICTORY. Did you have a build log for you VASA? Any photos? I am building the Corel version and have already encountered problems that will be fun/frustrating/I hope rewarding, to correct.
Thanks for your comments!! I agree. Lots to think about. I would like to try my hand at turning yards and other cylindrical objects when I resume work on my VASA. The Rikon you have looks like a very good. Ii I do get one, I should probably get a lower priced one, with whatever faults it may have, if only to learn on which is something I have wanted to do for quite a while and as an addition to my overall woodworking shop. If I can get a bit proficient, then look into getting a better (i.e., Rikon, Jet, Grizzly) machine.Paul makes some good points, especially with his question “what are you wanting to use the lathe for?”. It is very valid.
I have a Rikon 70-100 mini lathe, which I use for general purpose turned items as well as model ship parts. The limitation is trying to turn very small parts so I purchased a chuck for the headstock that, with careful setup, allows for some limited small parts turning with mini tools, sandpaper, needle files etc. I do not have a mini desk top lathe but have my eye on one for the future.
The Rikon 70-100 will sit on a bench but I have a stand for it. One of the things to consider with wood turning is eliminating vibration as much as possible. Vibration will affect your turning so I dampen the machine by placing it on a piece of carpeting on a solid floor and ensure the lathe is well secured on its stand. Good quality turning tools are a must and there are mini ones available. I have a mini set of Henry Taylor and a small roughing gouge as well. Then you have to also consider sharpening your gouging tools, chisels, parting tools etc., another expense. Considering the accessories you need, in addition to the lathe, it can get costly. I bought the Rikon because I was wood turning on a 1000mm wood lathe decades ago and missed the fun of it. I made toys for challenged kids in my spare time as a volunteer and even beer pump handles for pubs. The kids didn’t get the beer of course
This then comes full circle back to Paul’s question about usage. Ideally having a mini lathe like the Rikon, or similar, and a small desk top lathe as well opens your options enormously. If I was starting out now, only as a modeller, I’d probably go for the desk top mini lathe first.