Glad to help. I'll be interested in seeing the outcome. Rich (PT-2)That answers that question.
Doing a rough calculation, I would guess that the scale pin would be between 12 1/2mm and 15mm. The ones in the kit measure about 13mm.
Jan
Glad to help. I'll be interested in seeing the outcome. Rich (PT-2)That answers that question.
Doing a rough calculation, I would guess that the scale pin would be between 12 1/2mm and 15mm. The ones in the kit measure about 13mm.
Jan
Hi Heinrich,I concur 100% with the Admiral. It looks beautiful, Jan!
The result is a good blend and balance with the other materials. Rich (PT-2)Hi Heinrich,
Indeed, the Admiral is a lot of help and very supportive. She has done all the fancy scissors work on my big templates. Alas, I’ve not been able to convince her to try her hand at planking a hull.
Jan
The desk looks great!!Final deck color
The color using test sample #3 is slightly darker than anticipated. The Admiral thinks it’s perfect .
That is why we have admirals and serve their needs. Saying "Aye, Aye" makes like less complicated. Rich (PT-2)The desk looks great!!
Hi Thomas,Hi Jan!
Karl Heinz Marquardt, Bemastung und Takelung von Schiffen des 18. Jahrhunderts, 1994, Weltbild Verlag, page 353.
Marquardt writes: according to "Falconer" the belaying-pin is 16 inch long. The upper part of the belaying-pin is 3/7 long, the lower 4/7. The upper diameter 13/8 inch = 4.2 cm. The lower diameter 11/8 inch = 3.5 cm.
With best regards
Thomas
You will be the one who determines how much length that you want, historical or artistic freedom to present what you want associated with the pins. Just for consideration. Rich (PT-2)Hi Thomas,
Thank you for doing all that research. Once again rough calculations (16 inches = 406mm, 406 mm in 1:25 scale = about 16mm). Hmpf, I think I’m getting to old for this kind of mental gymnastics .
The pins included with the kit are 12 mm long, with the top and bottom almost the same length. When placed in the rail one looses about two millimeters, which doesn’t leave much working room.
View attachment 194506
Jan
Hi Jan!
The lower part of the belaying-pins had to be at least as thick as the thickest rope of the ship to be covered. Small ships like the Alert could also have smaller belaying-pins. They were the same on the whole ship. As Rich said, use the supplied ones. No artistry is necessary. Whether you hang the entire rope roll over the belaying-pin or just a loop that holds the rope roll depends on the space available. If the rope is attached to the pin, you can, as in the harbour, lay the rope on the deck.
Best regards
Thomas
Hi Heinrich, the photo angle is bad, but the gist of my problem was how everything lined up. I wound up drilling holes for toothpicks in the Transom supports so I could space them roughly equally and glue them in place. you can see the tops of the toothpicks if you zoom in. I couldn’t figure out any other way to hold the Transom while all the fitting was going on.Hello Jan. It is difficult to tell from that angle photograph how the transom fits, but from that shot it all look symmetrical and as if it is lining up very well. One would think that with a kit like Krick, the rudder on the plan would be to scale. Ah well ... it shows we can never assume anything!
I wouldn't worry about the toothpicks at that stage as like with teeth, every one gets cleaned up before it is done. Very nice work. I really like, if I am correct, the brass angle strips guiding the transom beam angle. Rich (PT-2)Jan, I see what you mean, but honestly, I don't think anyone would have noticed that unless you had alerted us to it.
Hi Thomas,Hi Jan!
Many wood connections were interlocked by the ship carpenters. Where this was not possible - as with the knees on the stern of the Alert - they were attached to the beam by bolts through the deck. You unconsciously did everything right!
Best regards
Thomas