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Krick “Alert” U.S. Cutter, 1/25 scale

Wood Type:

I’m working on the railings, and the wood to be used is “Biegeleiste”, my German is a little rusty and “Google” doesn’t translate it.

My reason for asking is curiosity. My method for bending wood is to soak, and place it in a jig to get the proper/ bend curve. When I removed the two pieces after an overnight soak, they were some squiggly. They looked liked little garter snakes. I’ve got them clamped between two sheets of plexiglass to flatten then while they dry out.

So what kind of wood is this?

Jan
 
Hi Jan!

"Biegeleiste" is a pre-treated beech strip. It is 1 to 2 mm thick and very elastic and can be easily shaped by hand even over the narrow side. The whole without water and heat. You can also recognize it by the very coarse beech grains. It is added to construction kits for very difficult to form railings, but are sometimes bad to glue.

Best regards
Thomas
 
Thomas Marocke said:
Hi Jan!

"Biegeleiste" is a pre-treated beech strip. It is 1 to 2 mm thick and very elastic and can be easily shaped by hand even over the narrow side. The whole without water and heat. You can also recognize it by the very coarse beech grains. It is added to construction kits for very difficult to form railings, but are sometimes bad to glue.

Best regards
Thomas
Click to expand...
Hi Thomas,

Thank you for your reply, those strips do bend easily. My mistake was to treat them the way I did. Another note in my “what not to do log”.

Jan
 
Alas, another Rookie Mistake:

I managed to almost flatten out the Biegeleiste strips, but I’m none to happy. There are still up and down ripples, the edge bend to follow the contour of Bulwark is OK. But a side view shows a lot of daylight between the Bulwark and the strip. I’ll have to think about this part a bit more.

5D7A0C59-1674-42C8-A3A5-FF72A3DB9913.jpeg


Jan
 
Hello Jan. Can you show us a picture from the side?
 
Pathfinder65 said:
I managed to almost flatten out the Biegeleiste strips, but I’m none to happy. There are still up and down ripples, the edge bend to follow the contour of Bulwark is OK. But a side view shows a lot of daylight between the Bulwark and the strip. I’ll have to think about this part a bit more.
Click to expand...
One of the ways to shape bulwarks is to have a sanding stick made out of hardwood, Beech will perfectly suitable for this purpose, it must be absolutely flat, even, and long enough to cover both bulwarks"Port and Starboard. Then, while you put evenly pressure on both sides move the stick from Stern to Bow, from time to time switch opposite from Bow to Stern. Don't sand back and forth, ONE way only. Here is I shape the frame to my Alert, but the idea is the same: shape both sides at the same time. Just put the pressure evenly on both sides to avoid excessive sanding on either side. Hope it will help ;)

600_0891.jpg
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Jan. Can you show us a picture from the side?
Click to expand...
654BDFC0-8870-4884-9B9A-7D3FD6B76B6F_1_201_a.jpeg
Hi Heinrich

A picture of the problem. PVA doesn't do the trick no matter how much I try to clamp the piece. The ripple is just to pronounced. I don't like using CA, I would have to use a bead of that stuff for twenty inches along the top of the Bulwark. One solution is to glue this piece the best I can and add 1/32 X 1/16 inch strip to cover the gap, the other option is to use a piece of mahogany roughly the same size instead of this "Beech" strip.

But that gets me back to edge bending.

Any thoughts??

Jan
 
Last edited:
Jimsky said:
One of the ways to shape bulwarks is to have a sanding stick made out of hardwood, Beech will perfectly suitable for this purpose, it must be absolutely flat, even, and long enough to cover both bulwarks"Port and Starboard. Then, while you put evenly pressure on both sides move the stick from Stern to Bow, from time to time switch opposite from Bow to Stern. Don't sand back and forth, ONE way only. Here is I shape the frame to my Alert, but the idea is the same: shape both sides at the same time. Just put the pressure evenly on both sides to avoid excessive sanding on either side. Hope it will help ;)

View attachment 198528
Click to expand...
Hi Jimsky,

Thanks for the advice, that is a good method to keep in mind.

Jan
 
Jan I am sure one can get that Beech strip glued down flat (there are ways and means ...), but that would mean that the top of the strip would still show a "wavy" effect. If you open the Duyfken's box, you should have Abachi strips that are used for deck planking. These strips may either be 3mm or 4mm wide and 1.0mm and 0.7mm in thickness. Sacrifice one of these strips, glue it down on top of the bulwarks (in the affected area where the beech strip doesn't lie flat) and sand it down carefully and progressively until the gap is eliminated.
 
Heinrich said:
Jan I am sure one can get that Beech strip glued down flat (there are ways and means ...), but that would mean that the top of the strip would still show a "wavy" effect. If you open the Duyfken's box, you should have Abachi strips that are used for deck planking. These strips may either be 3mm or 4mm wide and 1.0mm and 0.7mm in thickness. Sacrifice one of these strips, glue it down on top of the bulwarks (in the affected area where the beech strip doesn't lie flat) and sand it down carefully and progressively until the gap is eliminated.
Click to expand...
Hi Heinrich,

That sounds like a neat solution, BUT I'll have to leave home if I open the Duyfken box before the 25th. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Jan
 
Jan, so maybe, use another piece of wood that you just sand down to the correct thickness?
 
Assuming the top of the bulwark is straight and true and not wanting to use ca glue, what I have done in the past is to use pva glue. I simply use a syringe with pva in it and run a bead of glue along the underside of the railing, similar to chalking a door or window on your house. This will fill the gap and add some gluing strength to the railing. This is done after the railing is glued into place.
I often use both pva and ca together, I'll run a bead of pva then ca then pva etc this will give you a strong bond that will not need clamping. When using this method try and get the ca on the trouble spots.
 
Heinrich said:
Jan, so maybe, use another piece of wood that you just sand down to the correct thickness?
Click to expand...
DonRobinson said:
Assuming the top of the bulwark is straight and true and not wanting to use ca glue, what I have done in the past is to use pva glue. I simply use a syringe with pva in it and run a bead of glue along the underside of the railing, similar to chalking a door or window on your house. This will fill the gap and add some gluing strength to the railing. This is done after the railing is glued into place.
I often use both pva and ca together, I'll run a bead of pva then ca then pva etc this will give you a strong bond that will not need clamping. When using this method try and get the ca on the trouble spots.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I’ll give that a try later today. This is just another step in the learning process.

Jan
 
Heinrich said:
Jan, so maybe, use another piece of wood that you just sand down to the correct thickness?
Click to expand...
Hi Heinrich,

I thought of a similar fix of placing 1/32“ X 1/16” strips under the outside edge of the rail and against the hull. I have some of those in Mahogany and think they will be barely visible up against the Walnut planking. But that method doesn’t cover the gap when viewed from the deck side of the ship.

DonRobinson also has a good method. I’m going to do a couple of test pieces today to see which solution is the winner.

Jan
 
The fix:

I've combined Heinrich's and DonRobisons ideas.

DE748E97-295C-4448-9CB0-0014A6CB33A3_1_201_a.jpeg

The first section in place. A dab of CA and a strip of PVA every inch and a half is working to hold the Beech strip down. The top ripple effect is still noticeable but not as pronounced. The clips are holding a piece of 1/16 X 1/16 inch mahogany as a test to cover the gap between the Bulwark tops and the Beech strip. I've ordered 1/32 X 1/32 inch Mahogany strips to make the final fix. ;) I'll be the only one to know about the "FIX". Right guys? ;)

Jan
 
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The Result on the Starboard side:

11B5F351-76AC-410A-9AE0-C2FF115F9CC1_1_201_a.jpeg

The CA and PVA combination worked well, I also pinned the rail in place with 12mm brass nails. Those will be removed when the glues are set. I lightly wet the Beech strip prior to gluing and pinning, that seemed to help bending the strip to fit on top of the Bulwarks.

73CBCF88-7EFD-4425-BE64-CCD867390354_1_201_a.jpeg

The gap between the Beech strip and the top of the Bulwarks is almost gone. I think pinning the strip down was the answer for that problem. It's one of those places that clamps were not very useful.

Jan
 
Last edited:
Pathfinder65 said:
The Result on the Starboard side:

View attachment 198850

The CA and PVA combination worked well, I also pinned the rail in place with 12mm brass nails. Those will be removed when the glues are set. I lightly wet the Beech strip prior to gluing and pinning, that seemed to help bending the strip to fit on top of the Bulwarks.

View attachment 198853

The gap between the Beech strip and the top of the Bulwarks is almost gone. I think pinning the strip down was the answer for that problem. It's one of those places that clamps were not very useful.

Jan
Click to expand...

Very nice fix for the problem.
Ship is coming along nicely.
My Enterprise had the same wavy top, I sanded down as much as I could and left it at that :(

Looks barely noticeable to most lookers ;)
 
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