L’Hermione La Fayette 1:89 (New kit) - Artesania Latina

Very nice looking Hermione sofar Wander, but i would stick with the woodglue, and use superglue only in very difficult places, because superglue can turn very bristle after a while.
And for bending the wood, i use the Amati plankbender, mostly the big knob on it, but sometimes the part underneath the big knob
 
Upper planking done.
Have I dug myself into a hole or should I just continue and remember to use wood glue as well?
Seems to be working for you, so I think there is no need to change it.
If you realize, with the next planks, there is a problem coming up, you have still time to change or to combine
I f.e. often combine and make 2/3 of the contact places with wood glue and 1/3 with CA-glue, especially close to stern and bow
 
Seems to be working for you, so I think there is no need to change it.
If you realize, with the next planks, there is a problem coming up, you have still time to change or to combine
I f.e. often combine and make 2/3 of the contact places with wood glue and 1/3 with CA-glue, especially close to stern and bow
This is a good alternative. I have been considering using a combination so your suggestion based on your own method is encouraging.
I will proceed with care!
 
Build Log #1: Part 3, L’Hermione La Fayette - Planking the hull (gun ports)

Some methodology in making gun ports.

1) Drill 1mm pilot holes. I use a Tamia hand vice.
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2) Connect the dots. Cut hole to hole using a knife, thus staying well within the drawn frame.
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3) File the cut out to shape the gun port.
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Two holes done, 28 to go!
 
I would do it in the same way - as mentioned before: you are on a good way with your first build
 
Build Log #1: Part 3, L’Hermione La Fayette - Planking the hull (gun ports)

Some methodology in making gun ports.

1) Drill 1mm pilot holes. I use a Tamia hand vice.
View attachment 308318

2) Connect the dots. Cut hole to hole using a knife, thus staying well within the drawn frame.
View attachment 308319

3) File the cut out to shape the gun port.
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Two holes done, 28 to go!
Good evening Wander. Nice going so far. Your method for doing the gun ports is great. If I am correct the canons at the bow and stern are dummy cannons which fit into a support strake? If so you may want to create a center point and drill the hole into support prior to cutting out the port.

I agree with Uwek re CA glue and wood glue for planking. I used the CA as “nails” and to holding points at stern and bow. If there is a difficult plank which needs to be positioned after glue is applied (e.g some “dropper planks” or stealers I did prefer wood glue as CA just dries too quickly before I could position them.

Looking good. Cheers Grant
 
Good evening Wander. Nice going so far. Your method for doing the gun ports is great. If I am correct the canons at the bow and stern are dummy cannons which fit into a support strake? If so you may want to create a center point and drill the hole into support prior to cutting out the port.

I agree with Uwek re CA glue and wood glue for planking. I used the CA as “nails” and to holding points at stern and bow. If there is a difficult plank which needs to be positioned after glue is applied (e.g some “dropper planks” or stealers I did prefer wood glue as CA just dries too quickly before I could position them.

Looking good. Cheers Grant
Good Morning Wander. My last comment on CA glue which I learned the hard way... if you are going to leave wood natural, stain or poly and CA glue is on the surface it will leave a mark and look blotchy. It does not sand off as well so it is an exact process. Enjoy. Cheers Grant
 
Good Morning Wander. My last comment on CA glue which I learned the hard way... if you are going to leave wood natural, stain or poly and CA glue is on the surface it will leave a mark and look blotchy. It does not sand off as well so it is an exact process. Enjoy. Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant. It's these small things one needs to know or learn the hard way heh. This model will be painted so fortunately the CA stains, which there are some despite my efforts, will be covered.
 
Good evening Wander. Nice going so far. Your method for doing the gun ports is great. If I am correct the canons at the bow and stern are dummy cannons which fit into a support strake? If so you may want to create a center point and drill the hole into support prior to cutting out the port.

I agree with Uwek re CA glue and wood glue for planking. I used the CA as “nails” and to holding points at stern and bow. If there is a difficult plank which needs to be positioned after glue is applied (e.g some “dropper planks” or stealers I did prefer wood glue as CA just dries too quickly before I could position them.

Looking good. Cheers Grant
Another good point Grant. The first AL Hermione model had precast false cannons cast onto a recessed port that fit inside the portholes.
This time around, however, it's more DIY (pun intended).

Below is Step 54, as seen in the pics one drills a centre hole and mount the cannon, etc. As you pointed out predrilling a centre hole is a good idea, unfortunately, I did not check this step and the portside is almost done and starboard is half way done, so will have to judge with my eye.

Fortunately, I'm quite good at gauging centres and parallels (having a symmetry OCD this comes naturally).

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Thanks Grant. It's these small things one needs to know or learn the hard way heh. This model will be painted so fortunately the CA stains, which there are some despite my efforts, will be covered.
Hello Wander- yep I have learned so much from my mistakes despite so much advice from SOS members. The sad part is after 18months of building my Victory I keep making new ones - great learning curve though and loving it. Your build is looking awesome thoThumbsup
 
Build Log #1: Part 1, L’Hermione La Fayette - Unboxing & Wood.

So, we begin! My first ship since 2009, when I completed the old Hermione kit from AL. Suffice it to say I was much younger then and I simply ‘winged it’!
Built the whole model in 5 months doing 9 hours a day. (Interestingly, the instructions booklet missed a lot of steps so no wonder. The new instructions are in CD, writable, and much clearer).

Also, this is my first build log! Bear with me, I’m learning :)


Unboxing the kit it becomes apparent how AL has opted for cheeper woods (probably due to the ship being painted). Still, I miss the variety of colours and woods.

Plywood laser cut elements.

Same mono-colour scheme for the spars and planks.
Hallo @Wander
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
Thank you kindly Uwek! I did have a productive day (took leave and worked on the Hermione!).

It has been six months since my last post. I do apologise for the silence, life has been rough and tumble; moved/relocated to a different part of town, etc., so I’ve not been able to work on my model much.

However, I am back now and close to completing the hull planking! Tedious, but certainly better than my last model.

You will notice the “Clinker like” appearance on some of the planking.
This is not intentional and my method is improving (notice the better planking of the lower bow planks versus the upper planks).
I hope heavy sanding will solve this and if not, I will fix where needed.

Also, the black marks are light burn marks from my electric pipe bender.

The dark stain marks on the starboard is the container lid I used for steaming (tossed that lid after noticing the stains).

In next post I hope to showcase a completed hull, sanded, and with keel and head attached.

Stay safe o7

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Such valuable information! Thanks Uwe.

It is true that navies painted their ships, and if the P. O'B novels are accurate, then they even repainted when out on sea. Of course, no paint looks better, than good quality wood! My first Hermione I did not paint, just stained here and there.

As to the plank lengths... Oh my they are far too short then! I'll either leave it as is or redo it.
I prefer to build my ships painted as they appeared. No ship was ever constructed with wood based on how pretty it was. Personally, i would rather build using basswood throughout because it has finer grain that is painted easily. But, it is simply my preference.

Bill
 
No ship was ever constructed with wood based on how pretty it was.
The real ships were painted (and still do) for protection to preserve a longer life in service. The artistic painting, along with carving, were used to decorate the ships. Our models don't require protection painting, other than protection from sun, moisture, and dust. Those of us who like the natural wood appearance can enjoy the natural look of the wood. But as you said, it is a purely personal choice and taste.
 
Thank you kindly Uwek! I did have a productive day (took leave and worked on the Hermione!).

It has been six months since my last post. I do apologise for the silence, life has been rough and tumble; moved/relocated to a different part of town, etc., so I’ve not been able to work on my model much.

However, I am back now and close to completing the hull planking! Tedious, but certainly better than my last model.

You will notice the “Clinker like” appearance on some of the planking.
This is not intentional and my method is improving (notice the better planking of the lower bow planks versus the upper planks).
I hope heavy sanding will solve this and if not, I will fix where needed.

Also, the black marks are light burn marks from my electric pipe bender.

The dark stain marks on the starboard is the container lid I used for steaming (tossed that lid after noticing the stains).

In next post I hope to showcase a completed hull, sanded, and with keel and head attached.

Stay safe o7

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Good morning Wander. Good to see your build again. The AL kit has thick birch (I think) planks so you have room to sand many of the “clinker” aspects. As you go try bevel the leading edge of each plank before you lay them to help with the overlaps. Cheers Grant
 
So! Hull painted!

A bit difficult photographing dark colours but you get the general idea. The yellow in my opinion looks too green. Should probably have given it a white undercoat, but there you go. Overall, considering it’s hand painted (not airbrushed) and my first paint job in almost 10 years, I’m happy.

Next step is lower deck detailing.

NB. The last photo, my daughter insisted on a photo with her hand print. One might say, she had a hand in it!

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So! Hull painted!

A bit difficult photographing dark colours but you get the general idea. The yellow in my opinion looks too green. Should probably have given it a white undercoat, but there you go. Overall, considering it’s hand painted (not airbrushed) and my first paint job in almost 10 years, I’m happy.

Next step is lower deck detailing.

NB. The last photo, my daughter insisted on a photo with her hand print. One might say, she had a hand in it!

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Mooi Wander, Baie mooi. Cheers Grant
 
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