La Belle 1684 - Caf Model 1:48 by Gennaro [COMPLETED BUILD]

Took a while to mark beams (centerline, lines of carlings, hatches etc.) Now it's time to put MF70 to work. Not too bad. Cherry is definitely not Castello Boxwood, but I am definitely not Thomas or Oliver, so here we go. Happy modelling and enjoy your weekend.

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Dematosdg said:
Very clean job!!!

Please show how you use the MF70 for your parts. I just got one 3 weeks ago and I would like to see how others use it for their models. Will open my mind to all the possible uses of the MF70.

Thank you !!!
Daniel
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Sure thing, Daniel. Tomorrow I'll start milling notches in the second beam and take few pictures.
 
Dematosdg said:
Very clean job!!!

Please show how you use the MF70 for your parts. I just got one 3 weeks ago and I would like to see how others use it for their models. Will open my mind to all the possible uses of the MF70.

Thank you !!!
Daniel
Click to expand...
I even use it as a micro spindle sander for sandings inside arches , works great.

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Dematosdg said:
Nice !!!!!!

Thank you
Daniel
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I wonder if the bearing in a small drill press are stable enough to do the same. . . problem is that the handle to bring the bit down would need some rigging and a foot treadle or device to lock it in place for the sanding. Any recommendations???? Rich (PT-2)
 
PT-2 said:
I wonder if the bearing in a small drill press are stable enough to do the same. . . problem is that the handle to bring the bit down would need some rigging and a foot treadle or device to lock it in place for the sanding. Any recommendations???? Rich (PT-2)
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I will open a new thread on the tools forum to avoid hijacking Gennaro's build log.

DONE:

Tips for Sanding Curves

Hi I would like to know what are the tools you most like to use to sand curves. The discussion comes from another thread that I do not want to hijack. Maarten wrote that is one of the uses for his MF70 Proxxon Milling tool. That is a great idea. I was planning to use this : I still...
shipsofscale.com


Cheers
Daniel
 
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PT-2 said:
I wonder if the bearing in a small drill press are stable enough to do the same. . . problem is that the handle to bring the bit down would need some rigging and a foot treadle or device to lock it in place for the sanding. Any recommendations???? Rich (PT-2)
Click to expand...
Rich, I'm not machinist, but as I understand drill presses are designed to handle vertical, not horizontal forces. Since pieces in our hobby are quite small, it might be worth trying.
 
Dematosdg said:
Very clean job!!!

Please show how you use the MF70 for your parts. I just got one 3 weeks ago and I would like to see how others use it for their models. Will open my mind to all the possible uses of the MF70.

Thank you !!!
Daniel
Click to expand...
This is how I used Proxxon MF70 today to mill notches in beams and circle in mast partner. Unless one has CNC, the most important part would be to mark piece as accurately as possible. Beam was laid flat on xy table and clamped, milling bit was brought down to the surface of the beam, vertical dial set to 0 and then dropped by 1/32" (0.8mm) since that is the depth of the groove. Then carefully start milling:

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Once you are done with milling, corners need to be squared up (I used 1/16" milling bit):

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Circular opening on the foremast partner is 9mm in diameter - I wouldn't use 9mm drill bit to make it. Instead, here is the setup:

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After several shallow passes you'll get the opening. Most likely I'll have to repeat this again once I get to masts to make sure that rake is correct.

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Many thanks everybody, for all the likes and interest. Happy Saturday!
 
Gennaro said:
This is how I used Proxxon MF70 today to mill notches in beams and circle in mast partner. Unless one has CNC, the most important part would be to mark piece as accurately as possible. Beam was laid flat on xy table and clamped, milling bit was brought down to the surface of the beam, vertical dial set to 0 and then dropped by 1/32" (0.8mm) since that is the depth of the groove. Then carefully start milling:

View attachment 194330

View attachment 194331

Once you are done with milling, corners need to be squared up (I used 1/16" milling bit):

View attachment 194333

View attachment 194334

Circular opening on the foremast partner is 9mm in diameter - I wouldn't use 9mm drill bit to make it. Instead, here is the setup:

View attachment 194336

After several shallow passes you'll get the opening. Most likely I'll have to repeat this again once I get to masts to make sure that rake is correct.

View attachment 194337

Many thanks everybody, for all the likes and interest. Happy Saturday!
Click to expand...

Thank you for showing how you did this work with MF70. I have learned something else today !!!

For the circular opening you keep turning slowly and milling until you go all through. Smart. Nice tip. Thank you !!!

Daniel
 
Conquering deck one notch at a time. Never built model of a french ship before. Quite a carpentry. Carlings framing the fore hatch are not finished yet. Dove tails need to be milled for ledges. There she is:

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Thanks for all the likes and interest.
 
Very good idea to mill the 9mm hole ! I think your both are right with sanding on the milling machine.
But I think the forces are too high to sanding on the sweet little MF 70.
The Scheppach Spindelsander costs 130 Euros here in Europe. Its better to invest than kill the MF.
Finaly you will buy both. A new MF and a Spindelsander. If you have a little fine exact tool, don´t use it for rough works !
...only my opinion.
But one thing. I dont want to kill your entusiasm because entusiasm is force, but the notches on one side of the beam are different.
For now, not a problem, but keep it in you eyes for future projects.

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