Happy Birthday, Salty! 
La Salamandre 1752 1:48 (CAF) by Salty
- Thread starter Salty
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Thanks for your birthday wishes, although I was hoping the day would sneak by with no one noticing. I am enjoying building my model being part of the SOS fraternity. Retirement probably awaits next year and hopefully I will have more time for La Salamandre when that happens.
Paul, my knife is used for violin making.
The blade has double bevel and is made of very hard steel so it keeps its edge well. It comes hollow ground and it takes a little work to flatten it (the mark on the foot of the blade is the last of the hollow) but after that I only sharpen it every so often on a 4000 grit stone. It’s a favourite tool for all sorts of fine trimming and adjusting. Occasionally, I use it to scrape a surface to finish it instead of sandpaper. I’m reluctant to make a recommendation as tools are a very personal thing and we all have our own ways of tackling different jobs, but it suits my needs. You can get one at
https://www.dictum.com/en/carving-knives-bacc/herdim-hss-knives-blade-width-6-mm-700371?c=3224
I have some instrument makers chisels, rasps and finger planes as well. They might be a little expensive, but they will last a lifetime or two.
Fitting the keelson continues:
As with most things modelling, it is just a time consuming process, but this seems even more so. I would rather make a number of small adjustments than one large one. Again, I am a little surprised at how much difference the final one percent of work on the frames actually makes. When I started, I was a bit disenchanted about the fit, but things seem to be going into place much better.
I have added some extra bracing to the underside of the jig, in addition to the two battens I originally installed (see post 23). Without this bracing, the jig tends to flex ever so slightly, even with modest pressure, so it was sometimes difficult to gauge the fit of some
Paul, my knife is used for violin making.
The blade has double bevel and is made of very hard steel so it keeps its edge well. It comes hollow ground and it takes a little work to flatten it (the mark on the foot of the blade is the last of the hollow) but after that I only sharpen it every so often on a 4000 grit stone. It’s a favourite tool for all sorts of fine trimming and adjusting. Occasionally, I use it to scrape a surface to finish it instead of sandpaper. I’m reluctant to make a recommendation as tools are a very personal thing and we all have our own ways of tackling different jobs, but it suits my needs. You can get one at
https://www.dictum.com/en/carving-knives-bacc/herdim-hss-knives-blade-width-6-mm-700371?c=3224
I have some instrument makers chisels, rasps and finger planes as well. They might be a little expensive, but they will last a lifetime or two.
Fitting the keelson continues:
As with most things modelling, it is just a time consuming process, but this seems even more so. I would rather make a number of small adjustments than one large one. Again, I am a little surprised at how much difference the final one percent of work on the frames actually makes. When I started, I was a bit disenchanted about the fit, but things seem to be going into place much better.
I have added some extra bracing to the underside of the jig, in addition to the two battens I originally installed (see post 23). Without this bracing, the jig tends to flex ever so slightly, even with modest pressure, so it was sometimes difficult to gauge the fit of some
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Things are slowly coming together.
It’s difficult to show through photos because the adjustments are so small that sometimes I even struggle to see what I have done.
One issue has been the fit of the stemson to the inside of the stem. There was a small gap between the two - something less than a millimetre at the widest point at the base - and it’s taken a while to work out the reason for the gap. The slot for the stemson in frame 1 was not quite deep enough and the jig was slightly flexing with light pressure when I was testing the fit.
It wasn’t so much the fixing the causes of the gap that took so long, but working out why there was a gap in the first place. The extra bracing has made a difference, particularly at the stem and stern.
It’s probably all unnecessary in a way as the join will be covered by the hawse pieces in any event…
It’s difficult to show through photos because the adjustments are so small that sometimes I even struggle to see what I have done.
One issue has been the fit of the stemson to the inside of the stem. There was a small gap between the two - something less than a millimetre at the widest point at the base - and it’s taken a while to work out the reason for the gap. The slot for the stemson in frame 1 was not quite deep enough and the jig was slightly flexing with light pressure when I was testing the fit.
It wasn’t so much the fixing the causes of the gap that took so long, but working out why there was a gap in the first place. The extra bracing has made a difference, particularly at the stem and stern.
It’s probably all unnecessary in a way as the join will be covered by the hawse pieces in any event…
I can relate. Figuring out why two pieces don't fit together can be just as hard as fixing it. My problem is I get impatient and start sanding before I start thinking...guaranteed redo when that happens
.
Good evening Salty. I missed your birthday on Saturday. I hope you had a good one. Your keelsom is brilliant. My next ship will be a POF and I do like this La Salmandre CAF kit. Cheers Grant
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Thank you to everyone who continues to drop by to check on my progress.
Uwe and Paul, I agree there is an almost irresistible temptation to do something straight away when a part doesn’t fit. It’s made even worse because you only get one of everything in a kit. I am beginning think I should buy some extra cherry in various sizes because my luck will run out soon and I will inevitably need a dreaded “redo”.
Grant, thanks for your ongoing encouragement. I can see you edging ever closer to a POF kit, but no pressure. I certainly think you are up to the challenge if your Victory and Xebec are anything to go by.
I think this is about as good as I can get the keelson:
No glue yet, but after lots of trials, I think it will assemble as intended. Nothing needs pressure to get it to sit as it should which is reassuring.
Uwe and Paul, I agree there is an almost irresistible temptation to do something straight away when a part doesn’t fit. It’s made even worse because you only get one of everything in a kit. I am beginning think I should buy some extra cherry in various sizes because my luck will run out soon and I will inevitably need a dreaded “redo”.
Grant, thanks for your ongoing encouragement. I can see you edging ever closer to a POF kit, but no pressure. I certainly think you are up to the challenge if your Victory and Xebec are anything to go by.
I think this is about as good as I can get the keelson:
No glue yet, but after lots of trials, I think it will assemble as intended. Nothing needs pressure to get it to sit as it should which is reassuring.
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I am now gluing the frames in place.
I am working my way along the keel in sections from stem to stern. I do a few frames at a time with the keelson temporary fitted to keep everything together. When all frames are in place, I will glue the keelson.
The first couple of sections were relatively straightforward and the last few frames will be a little more complicated, so much so that I might end up doing them one at a time. There is very little space for frames 41, 42 and 43 and they don’t quite sit in the jig as well as the other frames because their outer edges are more horizontal than vertical at the point where they meet the jig.
It’s interesting to compare the slots for the keelson now to the state they were in when I was first finishing the frames (see post #99) - like chalk and cheese.
I am working my way along the keel in sections from stem to stern. I do a few frames at a time with the keelson temporary fitted to keep everything together. When all frames are in place, I will glue the keelson.
The first couple of sections were relatively straightforward and the last few frames will be a little more complicated, so much so that I might end up doing them one at a time. There is very little space for frames 41, 42 and 43 and they don’t quite sit in the jig as well as the other frames because their outer edges are more horizontal than vertical at the point where they meet the jig.
It’s interesting to compare the slots for the keelson now to the state they were in when I was first finishing the frames (see post #99) - like chalk and cheese.
Had to look up "like chalk and cheese" 
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Good afternoon Salty. Great modelling. Cheers Grant
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Grant and Paul, thanks for your comments and interest in La Salamandre. Although we all speak English, there seems to be many versions - UK, USA, Australian. I will try to stick to a middle ground in the future.
All the frames and keelson are now in place.
Thankfully everything seems OK. Some frames are out of alignment at the tips - 33 and 35 most conspicuously - but I think can address that when I fit filler blocks.
There is a saying about not biting off more than you can chew. I’m not quite at that point, but I have found this part of La Salamandre quite difficult. I am not aiming for perfection (just an illusion to torture us) but I think there is a certain standard I can reach, albeit with some effort. I would hate to settle for something less, because there’s still a long way to go with this model and I might be forever wondering.
All the frames and keelson are now in place.
Thankfully everything seems OK. Some frames are out of alignment at the tips - 33 and 35 most conspicuously - but I think can address that when I fit filler blocks.
There is a saying about not biting off more than you can chew. I’m not quite at that point, but I have found this part of La Salamandre quite difficult. I am not aiming for perfection (just an illusion to torture us) but I think there is a certain standard I can reach, albeit with some effort. I would hate to settle for something less, because there’s still a long way to go with this model and I might be forever wondering.
Congratulations - a major accomplishment is seen in these photos!
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Paul, thanks for your post. I would describe it more as a relief than achievement that everything fitted. Progress is rather slow compared to other threads, but it’s progress all the same.
At this point, it seems a good idea to install fillers between the frames to stabilise the hull. It will also help fitting the hawse pieces as there is really very little holding frame 1 in place.
Here is the start:
Quite a job in itself as there are almost 50 frames. The fillers are 2 x 5 x 18 mm, except for between frames 44 and 45 which are 4 mm thick. I have a small Japanese saw which has a blade about 0.3 mm thick which I used for the job. I am not sure, but I don’t think the teeth are set like a normal saw, so there is the kerf is just the blade thickness.
The blocks themselves are celery top pine left over from the bracing for the jig. A bit waste really as it is such a lovely timber, especially for boatbuilding.
At this point, it seems a good idea to install fillers between the frames to stabilise the hull. It will also help fitting the hawse pieces as there is really very little holding frame 1 in place.
Here is the start:
Quite a job in itself as there are almost 50 frames. The fillers are 2 x 5 x 18 mm, except for between frames 44 and 45 which are 4 mm thick. I have a small Japanese saw which has a blade about 0.3 mm thick which I used for the job. I am not sure, but I don’t think the teeth are set like a normal saw, so there is the kerf is just the blade thickness.
The blocks themselves are celery top pine left over from the bracing for the jig. A bit waste really as it is such a lovely timber, especially for boatbuilding.
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Thank you all for visiting my diary. If there are any questions you might have about what I am doing or why, I will try my best to explain. There might be some method to my madness…
Installing filler block blocks continues:
There were a few frames which are a bit narrow at the tips, but that is being fixed with humble stationery clips.
Frames 33 and 35 seems to be the worst - it’s a mystery why it happened. Having said that, it was only 3-4 mm, so it was not difficult to bring the tips back into line with the adjacent frames.
Apologies for the low tech clamps, but they are surprisingly good for this job. There’s just enough pressure to hold things in place, but not too much so I don’t feel like things are being forced and could break and can also be overlapped which helps with getting the frame tips into a neat row. They will no doubt come in useful later on.
Installing filler block blocks continues:
There were a few frames which are a bit narrow at the tips, but that is being fixed with humble stationery clips.
Frames 33 and 35 seems to be the worst - it’s a mystery why it happened. Having said that, it was only 3-4 mm, so it was not difficult to bring the tips back into line with the adjacent frames.
Apologies for the low tech clamps, but they are surprisingly good for this job. There’s just enough pressure to hold things in place, but not too much so I don’t feel like things are being forced and could break and can also be overlapped which helps with getting the frame tips into a neat row. They will no doubt come in useful later on.
Is there such a thing as a high-tech clamp?
I've been secretly worried about the alignment of your frames - nice to see that worked out OK!
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Paul, I have also had concerns about my frames not lining up. In truth, it’s really worried me. But things now seem to be coming together, possibly more by good luck than good management. La Salamandre could be more a bit more polished but I think it’s worth persevering with her at this point if I am being objective (which probably isn’t always the case) and I might end up with something of a passable standard. By the way, Paul, your Kingfisher is looking simply fantastic, a real tour de force.
More the filler blocks installed.
There are a few low spots on some frames. I am not going to do anything just yet, however, as what I need to do will be determined to some extent by how much I decide to plank. Further, the plans call for large sections of the port side to be cut away. Not too sure about that…
More the filler blocks installed.
There are a few low spots on some frames. I am not going to do anything just yet, however, as what I need to do will be determined to some extent by how much I decide to plank. Further, the plans call for large sections of the port side to be cut away. Not too sure about that…
Yup, she is really taking shape with all the chocks in place. I wouldn't sweat the polish of your build - it is magnificent just seeing all the framing and such... I waste a lot of time making stuff look pretty (and then covering the pretty parts with other things that I then need to try to make pretty) - it's all rather silly in the end.
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I think your "Sally" looks great! Salty, you say it all yourself. Many of us are our own harshest critics. That's because we want to do and present our best effort. Disappointment, elation, satisfaction, fear, are all emotional and we know emotion clouds objectivity! In time emotions fade and objectivity becomes clear. That's why when I feel like I've made a mistake, or disappointed in the outcome of a task I've completed, I walk away or work on something else. When I return, most, not always, but most times I realize I was being much too hard on myself.
Again, I think your ship looks great!
Keep it up mate!