Le Coureur 1776, model 1:48 by Adi

Now I understand your point!
I guess, and therefore I will do it in such a way like you showed in your second photo, if your walls are high enough.
We have a situation already with the interior walls aft of the compartments and storage rooms, where definitely the walls have to be adjusted with notches (red arrows).
OK, these are the deck beams and not the carlings....
you can also see that all of my walls will reach the ceiling and ending at the height of the top edge of the beams (green arrows)

IMG-5848a.jpg

This one is a photo of my Bonhomme Richard interior walls, where we have a similar situation with the notches for the beams
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My idea is the following:
When the old shipwrights built such a ship, they installed first the beams to get a rigged structure, afterwards they would have installed the carlings (CAF calls them stringers) and wedges in order to get a basis for the deck planking. After the deck was layed, than they started to install the interior walls made out of single boards - so I am pretty sure, that they had the possibility as much as possible that the walls are so high, that they as close as possible to the ceiling.

This interior deck of the Coureur is partly under the waterline, so I guess, that most of these walls are really fixed twoards the ship structure and not removable.
I am refering here to the fact, that on bigger ships the interior walls (above waterline) were partly or often removable, in order to reduce the possibility of wooden splinters by a gunball hit during combat action...
2.JPG
 
Curious... Is there an extra plank installed beneath the deck clamp that runs to the bow?
 
I think it is called carlings in English :) Also in my case the foremost bulkhead is not high enough to reach the top of the beam. I hope it will be okay when it covers between 1/2 to 2/3 of the beam. All the other bulkheads seems to be a little higher

Edit: somehow my post crossed the last 3 posts
 
pianoforte said:
Thanks Uwe, I thought of that, as you can see in my second to last picture the wall is in front of the deck beam. But what about the stringers, they have run above the wall if there are no recesses in the wall, right? Then, as you correctly say, the wall would have to sit next to the beam, but a little lower, may be.
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In regards to bulkheads (walls) running port to starboard located against either side of the beam, I would say that you can go either way:
- notch the boards to fit the carlings (timbers running front to back located between the beams)
- run the top of the bulkhead just below the carlings or even lower.
Either way you can still secure the top of the bulkhead boards to the beams.
Furthermore, I would not have the top of the bulkhead be tightly fitted to the under face of the deck planking.

G.
 
pianoforte said:
After the nice colleagues here persuaded me to start my own log, I decided to do so. After I was impressed by the accuracy of fit of the parts from the beginning, I started to remove the char layer.
Another possibility to grind the stuff gently and carefully was to use an elastic silicone polisher from Proxxon. That really worked.
Of course Iwork on tricky areas, like you do with the needle file.
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Hallo Adi alias @pianoforte
ALLES ALLES GUTE zum GEBURTSTAG - vor allem deinem Schnapszahltag
we wish you all the Best and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Enjoy your day
Birthday-Cake
 
pianoforte said:
At first, many thanks kidsgalore and chello.

And now what completely different. (Monty Python). Jim asks me about my favorite beer. Since our city considers itself a beer culture city, I prefer one of our local breweries. The beers all taste very delicious.

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Other countries (except for the belgian Trappist beers) should learn from German breweries and introduce the reinheitsgebot!
 
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