Hello Everyone,
As always, thank you for your likes, comments and above all your input.
In the past, I've posted/shared every idea and approach I have had before I did the work. I've done this so that many of the more knowledgeable modelers might point out flaws in my thinking and I'd save some time making novice mistakes. Going forward, I'll not be posting my ideas unless they result in a successful solution. Saving me posting time and more importantly you guys from reading about an idea that never comes to fruition.
I've had my head down working lately. As many know, many successes do not come without their failures.
So let me tell you about my last idea on the stern window fabrication...
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Issues:
>It was impossible to process the brass/copper foil to the correct scale and to achieve a uniform result.
>The microscope slide covers were easily cut(I used one of those broken 0.6mm tungsten PCB drill bits that always break). However, being real glass it was impossible to "scuff" that transparent glass to achieve the translucent window pane I wanted. I might have been able to do so if I had a diamond honing plate, but I was not going to buy one for that sole purpose. Also, if you drop one of these, it's like dropping a contact lens. Get on your hands and knees!
Solution:
WAIT FOR IT.......construct windows the conventional way.
Window Frames
Selected the hardest Pearwood I had. I chose Pear once again as I wanted the window frames black and only had one block of Black Hornbeam. I would dye the Pear black. I constructed the frames using the same basic method I used for gratings. This was challenging as the windows have some tricky geometry, following the horizontal curvature of deck/cross beams as well as a slight vertical angle, which was less pronounced.
After a few unsatisfactory attempts, I settled on mill cutting 0.8mm slots 4.4mm, center on center to get the 4.0mm pane openings as in the plan.
Important note: I wanted the length of each frame piece to follow the grain of the wood, for strength. Also, as a benefit, milling cross grain results in a cleaner cut.
I was smart enough to bookmark an Allied Express link Jimsky provided some time ago. Picked up a set of 4X 0.8mm, 2 flute carbide end mills for $14. Sorry Jim, you do not get a commission!
After some testing, I found this little beast had no issues cutting a 1.6mm deep cut in one pass at a feed rate of about 1.5mm/sec.
Other end mills I've used would take 3X 0.5mm passes at a slower feed rate if I didn't want the tool to break.
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Great results. Extremely crisp cuts.
I then took each piece and cross cut (perpendicular to the milled slots), 0.95mm strips on the Byrnes table saw. I could have cut thinner if I had the zero tolerance blade plate.
So my slots were 0.8mm and the pieces themselves were 0.95mm. They wont fit together as is so I needed to remove 0.15mm uniformly from ever piece. Onto a milled flat piece of aluminum with double sided tape and into the Byrnes thicknesser they went.
Assembly went smoothly, with 0.73mm (avg.) pieces fitting easily into 0.8mm slots. These did not result in a fit that was too loose at all and provided enough "play" to apply very slight pressure to achieve a progressive angle needed at the outer windows.
Assembled, unprocessed.
After rough processing.
Final processing resulted in frames of 1.8mm thickness.
Note:
Each frame was custom fit into its specific opening on the stern structure(unglued). Only then when the correct angle was achieved was each intersection glued. Usually if I use CA glue with wood it is Medium or Thick in some cases. For this application it was not possible to apply the glue to each slot and then fit the next piece. This would only result in a mess.
Once the frame was assembled dry and held in place, thin CA was applied at each intersection. This worked very well as the capillary action sucked the glue into the smallest of gaps. I was able to remove the frame from the form 5 sec. after the last application.
Window Glass
I went back to my favorite solution for scale glass, Mica. You can find this in processed sheets on eBay. Twenty USD will give you a supply for the rest of your modeling career.
The Mica I have is completely transparent, with a very slight amber tint to it. It is flexible and easily cut with sharp scissors to any size.
As I wanted translucent panes rather than transparent I lightly abraded each on some 3200grit micro mesh.
As Mica is a mineral and formed in very thin micron thick layers it can be separated into thinner panes, if needed using a thin razor blade. Also, if handle too roughly the edges will separate slightly giving the panes a glazed look. I actually liked the effect.
Assembled Stern Plate
After dying the frames, they were fit into their respective openings. The following photos are of the stern plate in its current state. I one off created the door to the great cabin and added my own "floret" (fleuron) as decoration.
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Apologies for such a long post, but I wanted to keep all of the relevant work together. I went into each step for the windows as there were requests to show how I made them.
The last piece of the stern plate is the Taffrail, which is complete but was not added as I want to see how everything comes to fit on the ship.
On another note, there was some damage on the port side of the hull where the stern plate will be attached. I will need to come up with a solution to fix IT and also the starboard side in order to achieve balance, and find a more secure space for it. During this stern task session, I've been considering the entire project, from the hull's perspective. It would not be too late for me to scrap the shell and construct a fully conventional hull, with every frame. It is intriguing and frightening at the same time. I need some time to ponder...
Next Up
After a 2 week back order delay on my 1/2 inch tool holder it is in hand. I'll get ready to profile the beakhead. After that I will have to make some difficult decisions.
Once again, thank you all for following along. I appreciate the support and all of your comments and input. I truly value the critiques more than the compliments. Although pats on the back are always nice and the fuel for further motivation.
Till next time...
They could improve my work results. But I forgot to put them on Santa's list. I can hear my Admiral now. "Why do you need TEN mats?!?" Does anyone have a good answer?
My inexperience came back to haunt me. When I pinned the pieces of the beakhead together for extra strength, one of them was done off center. Not thinking that I would later need to thin the beakhead and it was MOST important for that pin to be centered, I just let it go. Till it came back for a visit when I profiled the fore end of it.
