Le Mercure ANCRE Plans

I actually posted my last message in haste as I was making nails.

The nails in my photo were largely all experiments using varying RPM between the Proxxon hand drill and the Proxxon Drill Press and I won't likely use all of them on my model. I was curious to understand the difference in speeds and tools on the end result. I think I now have the ideal combination and my preference is the drill press as it allows you to cut the nail at exactly perpendicular minimising the friction on the nail and the likelihood of burning or breaking it. You do have to move the table every nail (which takes a fraction of a second longer) but this is not an issue to me at all. The Drill Press has the limitation of only 3 speeds but I am finding the fastest speed (8500 rpm) and the middle speed (4200 rpm) both work well. I managed to cut 1200 nails in about 1.5 hours (these are not featured in my photo). This means in a full day you could make all the nails you need for your model.

As I said earlier, the correct profile on the syringe tip is the secret as well as ensuring you never cut deeper than 4-5 mm in to the Pear. Every 200 nails, I remove the syringe and clean it with a pin that has the exact diameter of the internal of the syringe. Every 500 nails I give the syringe tip a quick sharpening on my extra fine flat file and then re-clean the inside to remove burrs and dust.

You must cut in the same direction as the grain of the wood and ensure the wood is absolutely secure when drilling in to it. Any movement of the wood (as the syringe penetrates it) will increase the probability of the nail breaking and ending up in your syringe tip. Some times when this happens it is impossible to remove the nail from the syringe tip and you end up having to make another syringe tip.

The diameter of the nail is about 0.6mm and its length is 4-5mm so it is very fragile when you are drilling and can break very easily.

This method gives a very consistent nail diameter with extremely clean edges.
 
In respect to inserting nails in to the deck I follow this procedure:

a) With a very fine pencil mark the position of the rows of nails on the deck with parallel lines. These will coincide with the beams underneath the deck
b) With a scribe (and on the pencil line) stab the deck gently in the exact position that each nail will go
c) Very carefully drill holes in to the stab marks
d) Insert the nails with PVA glue in to the holes drilled in c)
e) Cut the top of the nail
f) Sand and scrape the deck

I have only completed task a) and attach some photos. More photos detailing the other steps will follow over the next week or two.

IMG_0566.jpgIMG_0569.jpgIMG_0567.jpg
 
Thanks Brian077 - it is Castello.

I have now completed step b) - that is pricking (marking) my main deck in about 2300 locations with the scribe (which you can partly see in one photo). This is done very carefully and over quite a few hours because each mark needs to be exactly on the line and also an exact measured distance from the caulking line (in my case 1.5 mm).

Next each scribe mark will be drilled with a 0.7mm drill piece I purchased from the jewellery suppliers store. The hole will be a fraction wider than the scribe mark.

IMG_0578.jpg

IMG_0584.jpg
 
And now part c) complete. The pencil lines have been removed with an eraser and the scribe marks drilled out carefully with a 0.7mm drill piece.

Now, I will insert each nail in to PVA (actually - I use Titebond which is an aliphatic resin) and then in to each hole. I'll get to that this afternoon!

IMG_0592.jpgIMG_0593.jpgIMG_0594.jpg
 
That is very impressive Antonio, nice and straight, you must have some very straight rulers, :):):), looking forward to catching up in a couple of weeks,

Best regards John,
 
@neptune - Very funny!

Just to keep everyone else in the loop on this private joke about straight rulers, here is the background:

Not all rulers are straight. In fact, many have some very substantial bends in them making them unusable for our modelling purposes. I told Neptune about this and I became very obsessed with finding perfectly straight rulers (and squares). It then became a private joke between us....
 
I have finished inserting all the nails in the centre deck.

Tomorrow (once the glue completely dries) the nails will be cut flush with the deck using a razor. The deck will then be sanded (80 grit through to 240 grit) and scraped. I will then put it into storage until it is needed (after hull planking) at which time I will sand it with a 400 grit - 1000 grit and use a wax to finish it.
IMG_0600.JPGIMG_0599.jpgIMG_0601.jpg
 
LeMercure said:
I have finished inserting all the nails in the centre deck.

Tomorrow (once the glue completely dries) the nails will be cut flush with the deck using a razor. The deck will then be sanded (80 grit through to 240 grit) and scraped. I will then put it into storage until it is needed (after hull planking) at which time I will sand it with a 400 grit - 1000 grit and use a wax to finish it.
View attachment 159417View attachment 159418View attachment 159419
Click to expand...
998, 999, 1000,
Very exact and impressive Antonio I like the way you have changed rhythm or rather direction at the midway point, are you going to start the hull planking next, that deck planking is really nice, the subtle changes in colour define each plank,

Best regards John
 
@neptune - I changed the direction of the nails as per the plans.

Yes, hull planking is next. I have already started to think about this and the big unknown is what woods to use both below and above the waterline. We discussed this when you were at my house last week. I am leaning towards Myrtle (a medium-dark Australian wood) below the waterline with Daru (the wood I have used on the edge of my deck planking in the above photos) above the waterline.
 
@JohnA: Daru is Indonesian floor boarding that I picked up when I was in Russia. Dr Mike used it for his model L'Ambiteux and gave me some. The grain is perfect at my scale (1:36) but if you are building a smaller model (1:48 +) I think the grain is out of scale and too noticeable.

It is an excellent wood in terms of stability. It is very hard and holds a perfect edge. It smells beautifully sweet when you cut it. The disadvantages are it is harder to bend and many of the planks you cut are "speckled" and not usable. I estimate that I can only use 30-50% of the planks I cut.

I would try visiting a timber flooring place. I suspect they may stock very similar timbers that would be useable.

Unfortunately I don't have enough Daru to plank the under the waterline part of my hull (given 50% is not used). I will likely use it above the waterline.
 
@Brian077 - thank you for your kind words!
I communicated with Dr Mike a few days ago. He is now in his Summer house just out of St Petersburg. I think he is taking a holiday.

I attach photos of the completed centre deck with nails inserted. The deck has been sanded and scraped. it is not 100% finished as I have not sanded with a finer grade sandpaper nor waxed it. This will occur much later when it is inserted in to the model. Now I must turn my attention to drilling the holes on the left and right parts of the main deck and inserting nails in to those. I do this manually with my jewellers drill.


IMG_0606.jpgIMG_0607.jpgIMG_0608.jpgIMG_0609.jpgIMG_0610.jpgIMG_0611.jpgIMG_0612.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top