Le Rochefort 1:36 build by Tony P

Tony P

Staff member
Le Rochefort Moderator
Joined
Mar 25, 2012
Messages
741
Points
343

Location
Whiting New Jersey
Thanks Donnie and Zoly for creating this group build and recruiting some more modelers for this project. I’ve been studying the plans and the book for quite some time now. Adrian’s book is a true step by step log of his build. If this is your first POF build like me (the Blandford section was my first) this book is absolutely necessary. I made copies of all the frames. 2 copies of each and can always make more of needed. I have plenty of lumber for the keel assembly and I’ll order the thinner stock this week or next. I’m using Beech for the entire ship but when I get to decks and topside I may select something different for certain areas. I expect to take 2 years or so for this build. Like most of you I’ll have many many questions and working together and with the help of more experienced members we can figure things out that we may not understand. Give it your best shot. Good luck. Get cracking.

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Lovely wood there. What kind is it?
Beech, Donnie. Very nice and clear. This is left over from Blandford. I didn’t like the Cherry at all. Too dark for me. This comes out to 17/64 which is perfect for the keel assembly. I just have to order the frame stock and some of the ceiling stock for now.
 
Happy to see, that you already start with the jig.
and it will get very stiff and solid with the number of screws / threaded rods
Thumbsup
 
Happy to see, that you already start with the jig.
and it will get very stiff and solid with the number of screws / threaded rods
Thumbsup
Thanks. My top board is thicker than Adrian recommends which I’d think is a good thing.
I’m a bit confused as how to transfer the frame lines onto the top accurately and square to the center line and also how ti make sure the top of the jig is square and lined up exactly over the bottom. Any recommendations ?
 
That’s a lovely ship to build
Please continue
From simplistic to brain strain - I would love to know all!
Very best of luck.
For me French ships certainly had the edge. English had a lot to catch up on.
 
Thanks. My top board is thicker than Adrian recommends which I’d think is a good thing.
I’m a bit confused as how to transfer the frame lines onto the top accurately and square to the center line and also how ti make sure the top of the jig is square and lined up exactly over the bottom. Any recommendations ?
Hello Tony,
that looks very good. Here's how I went about it.

1. build the keel, bow and stern
2. Align the completed section on the top and bottom plates and check that everything fits at the right angle and then bolt the top section in place. I am adding pictures for you

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I’m a bit confused as how to transfer the frame lines onto the top accurately and square

Hi Tony,
Until my plan set comes, it will be then that I can only offer any technical support. Maybe Uwe or some others will offer help. I am not an expert, but maybe I can help figure this out as well.
 
Hello Tony,
that looks very good. Here's how I went about it.

1. build the keel, bow and stern
2. Align the completed section on the top and bottom plates and check that everything fits at the right angle and then bolt the top section in place. I am adding pictures for you

View attachment 343675

View attachment 343676

View attachment 343677

View attachment 343678
Oh ok. Thanks. So don’t cut the top jig plate until I’ve built the keel ? Or it doesn’t matter ?
 
I’m thinking about using the Hahn method to build my frames but assemble the hull in the normal upright jig. Working on how many strips I’ll need for each frame and where to make the joints. I’ll need 5 strips for each side of the frame, (floor side and half floor side) so 10 total. I’m using red and green as the frames are identified that way from Adrian. I have all the frame plans copied and colored. I have no doubt this method will save time even though it requires 10 strips per frame. Where it saves the time is assembling the frames and cutting them out.

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Ok yes any minor variations in the top jig have to be fixed later on anyway. The Keel length too can be adjusted later on. I’m just working on the jig because I don’t have frame lumber yet. I want to build the frames before the keel so each frame can be fit individually for accuracy into the keel slots.
 
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