I gueass with planking row 4 or 5 it will be not possible any more on the 2D top view drawing.
Latest when it is going into the 3rd dimension .......
Latest when it is going into the 3rd dimension .......
Le Rochefort 1/36 by Splinter
- Thread starter Splinter
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- 1:36 ancre group build le rochefort
You are absolutely right, this one only goes up to rows 4-5. The rest is pretty self-explanatory
Great progress. When I get back in my ship Im not looking forward to the stern and bow sections. they're going to be quite a project to get right !
Hello Tony thank you for the compliment, I actually have no experience at all with this way of building, which means that I sometimes have to redo things and that requires patience and time from me (which I don't always have). The bow was a problem, insofar as I didn't want to succeed with the milling machine (too little experience with this machine) after 2 attempts I decided to make it by hand, and it was not too bad for me to do it this way do it (by hand) The Stern is also a job that you can enjoy, a lot of fitting and measuring, but you will certainly succeed
You and me both. I don’t have much experience either. I find that sometimes it’s just easier to do things by hand. By the time you get the mill set up for each process you can be done. I still have to make all the spacer blocks for the frames then I’ll be able to move inti setting them. It’s a long road that’s why I take breaks and work on a plane or two since flying season is coming up !
The first part of the lower deck is in it. I am a little ashamed of the result achieved. the beginning went well, made a mistake somewhere so that I didn't come out well at the top. All in all, a lot of messing around. I have considered taking everything out again, after much consideration I will not do this because fortunately most of it is not immediately visible (at least I hope so). I am also considering putting a thin layer of 0.5mm over it. Then only 2 photos as proof, after all, you also have to show the things that don't quite work out. I'm going to start on the other side now hopefully this will get better. If you have suggestions, I'd love to hear them.
Just a quick question. I don't want to do the finishes with lacquer but with another finishing agent, I would like some advice regarding Danish Oil -Tung Oil or Lineseed Oil double boiled. I assume when one of these products has been used that the use of wood glue is no longer possible.
Hi Splitter, I think it doesn't matter which finish you use, the wood glue will/can't penetrate the wood to ensure a good bond. I have had good experiences with tung oil, it penetrates the wood well and the color is brought out nicely. Your inner floorboards look very nice, I wouldn't go over them with anything else. Most of it won't be visible later.
Finish with Tungoil
Finish with Tungoil
Tobias , thanks for the quick reply and explanation.
Or you could try also the CLOU Schnellschleif Grundierung
Yes Tung oil or Shellac, Whatever you do don't use poly it comes out over scale thickness and doesn't look great at all.
Poly I think gives a thick fake look to wood. Oil enhances it. That’s my opinion anyway.
Hi Tony, thank you for your response. I don't know the product "Poly", but if I understand your explanation correctly you mean the "Linseed oil" with this. I have already ordered Tung oil which arrives today.
Hello hard workers and craftsmen. Here is a brief overview of the state of affairs so far. The inner Floors are planked, supports for the deck beams have also been placed. The beams for the light Floor have now been sawn out and sanded to shape and must be cut to size and then installed. 
er knees and breast hooks at the stern have also been cut out. And the mast step half Floor timber is also ready. All drilled holes are filled with 0.5mm pencil lead to imitate the bolts in this way.
er knees and breast hooks at the stern have also been cut out. And the mast step half Floor timber is also ready. All drilled holes are filled with 0.5mm pencil lead to imitate the bolts in this way.
Great progress, well done. It will probably take me some time to get to this point.
Probably referring to poly urethane. But itcan be a great finish depending on the application. It can be thinned and comes in glossy, semi-gloss, and matte finishes. You can try it on scrap first. I prefer brushing lacquer myself.
My “Go-To” finish for both woodworking and models is a blend first used by the great Sam Maloof.
1/3 boiled linseed oil
1/3 mineral spirits
1/3 satin polyurethane
if you want it thinner add a bit more mineral spirit.
this finish has the advantage of both the penetrating properties of oil and the surface hardness of poly. It’s never failed me.
1/3 boiled linseed oil
1/3 mineral spirits
1/3 satin polyurethane
if you want it thinner add a bit more mineral spirit.
this finish has the advantage of both the penetrating properties of oil and the surface hardness of poly. It’s never failed me.
That looks really good, Splinter. Great progress.