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Making your own Ropes

Hi Kuba,

I’m new to this forum and this is my first post. I’ve been trying to make ropes for the past two weeks, but it’s been a complete disaster. So far, I’ve only managed to waste thread and time with the PL4-3 machine from Mr. Aleksei Domanov.
As you can see in the photos, the ropes come out badly twisted and lose almost all their tension. When I tried twisting them in the opposite direction, they turned into a massive tangle, forcing me to stop the machine.

Honestly, for the price I paid, I expected something much better. At this point, I don’t think it’s good for anything at all. Now the main issue will be the return process, since I live in the USA and Mr. Domanov is in Poland.

I’m writing in English in case someone else here owns the same machine and might be able to help. I’d really appreciate the chance to connect with you and hear about your experience using it. I bought a PL4-3, and so far, all I’ve accomplished is wasting thread.
To be honest, I’ve felt like throwing it in the trash—but after reading your posts, I see you speak very highly of it. If you don’t mind, I would greatly appreciate any advice you can share. You can even reply in Polish, or send a private message if you prefer.

I’ve attached some photos so you can see the kind of "ropes" the machine is producing for me. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Jacek Castro

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View attachment 591926

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That’s what happens if I don’t wind the yarns, threads and rope tight enough.

Even on this rope walk I’m using now will do this if I don’t wind tight enough.

You’ll be amazed how tight you have to wind the rope.
 
Let me go get something out of the bin.

These images from a few days ago. The first 1mm rope I made on the rope walker.

From what I’ve learnt here and experimentation in the past. I knew straight away I’d did not wind the rope tight enough.

Not as bad as your rope but fairly similar. When I cut this rope it was like a spinning top and just curled up into a mass mess.

IMG_2173.jpeg

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Keep in mind this is captured in a mobile phone so not the best cleanest image.

I cut this rope and it did not uncurl. I did cure this rope as I do with all ropes I now make.

If I did not cure the rope apx half to 1cm would where I cut would unwind.

By curing the rope it stops any unwinding and also helps to bind the yarns, threads and rope tight.

I followed the details Ben mentioned in the link that Skeef66 posted on curing ropes.

I think I read that link Skeef66 shared from start to Finnish apx 4 times. Every time I read it the more I learnt and what I did not understand I asked here.
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I also like to add I was attempting to make rope a bit thicker on the PL4 I own by using all 4 bobbins and a core.

That what I was starting to experiment with. I was not getting much success though. Found it very difficult to get all 4 bobbins evenly tensioned. And I found the yellow gear assembly was a bit weak, hence stripping one of the gears. Which I rectified by using cad software and making a much stronger gear out of ASA filament. However the final results were like yours. Unwind when I cut
 
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As a general contractor, architect, and engineer, I’m fairly comfortable with the technical side of machinery, and I’m always learning something new each day to have the opportunity to expand my knowledge. As I explained in another post, I have encountered several setbacks during the attempt, and I have run into a few challenges that I’m still trying to work through. For instance, I had a bobbin come loose while the machine was running, and I’ve also noticed that the wheel holding the three bobbins seems to wobble from side to side rather than rotating smoothly on its axis. This appears to affect how the gears engage, as they sometimes feel like they are slipping and the noise becomes unbearable.

Sorry about incorrectly underestimating your mechanical experience with tools! It's one of the hazards of these forums. You never know, so you tend to presume the person asking a question doesn't know as much they do unless they tell you! :D
Bobbins should not come loose when the machine is operating. Perhaps one wasn't tightened enough. The felt washers on either side of the bobbins are important. The pressure from the wing nuts against the felt washers creates the friction that regulates the tension on the strand as it comes off the bobbin.

The planetary wheel (the big one that rotates the bobbins) should not wobble. Everything on the machine should rotate smoothly and not wobble or create a lot of noise from grinding gears. It sounds like there may be a problem with the assembly of your machine. Mine came partially disassembled. As I recall, it was important that some of the parts were installed in the correct orientation. Perhaps a wheel is on backwards or something. I can't diagnose it from here, but it from your description you have a mechanical problem that should be easy enough to figure out by watching the thing run. (Slowly... you don't want to break something!)

Phillipsart is correct that the PL4's capacity is limited by the amount of thread that can be wound on the bobbin and thus also by the thickness of the thread. If one is going to make large diameter scale line, the PL4 probably isn't the best machine to select.

There isn't any way I know of to really wind thread on a sewing machine bobbin evenly without a bobbin winder. Every sewing machine has one built in these days, but for our purposes, if a sewing machine isn't handy, a stand alone bobbin winder is the tool for the job. They are not at all expensive and make quick work of loading a standard bobbin evenly and under the tension you set. Mine runs on AA batteries.

See: https://www.amazon.com/SINGER-Portable-Automatic-Shut-Off-Compatible/dp/B09Q7QVNQQ/ref=sr_1_8?adgrpid=1332608665312386&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.CneY0bYpmhoUFQtkMGleIHjAITc0bfnv08VL2BeYXSacCgyJsu1p617sKPLCuBG3SwkJTNfoPhuy-cmlQ4KYzM0THoUzDuD1-v_MPHwKQ8kifn3K13YyZOx_xzGjhtcs4DkJVW-r0hQUEL5fsNAI205nUXfuuk0IeFxP0mV3n98t6HxcQDGSmNuxmXHLOKAajQBk-6oCLOxKQwSXojyoHdp7LK4LjH5P7fnqzWMDFj7frzCc9SkoveebZJsK97C0hXOd7Ln83fNcFFRWDzDHrYRuqNaPBngHu9JO7InoliE.uoHJkYLIKyEGD5IaU4STL0TdiZzjubODXCY7HtlVxI8&dib_tag=se&hvadid=83288363786574&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=88716&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-83288404367763:loc-190&hydadcr=12564_13429831&keywords=bobbin+winders&mcid=bd4090e3780335ea8cc48259bce3276a&msclkid=33e3edd2dc3d1304abb6840e821f34da&qid=1776049700&sr=8-8

 
Hola Bryan
Esa podría ser la conclusión a la que llegue finalmente. Mientras tanto, voy a probar todo lo que me han recomendado hasta ahora. Incluso pienso comprar el conocido hilo Gütermann para descartar que el problema esté relacionado con el material en sí, aunque sospecho que no será así.

Si ninguno de estos enfoques resuelve el problema, probablemente me alejaré del método de Domanov y evitaré invertir más tiempo o recursos en él.
Simplemente cogeré esa máquina y la tiraré desde mi balcón a la piscina.
Atentamente
Jacobo
Buenos dias Jacek, me alegra verte por estos lares, como ya te dije yo no tengo esa maquina, preferí hacerme la mía propia, así si salia mal solo podía cabrearme conmigo mismo, jejeje, ya he leído las soluciones que te están dando, y creo coincidir con todas, también he comprobado que es más complicada de lo que en inicio podía pensar, las tensiones de los carretes alimentadores es super importante, y por lo que veo, no es fácil, como comprobar que los 3, 4 carretes tienen la misma en la maquina, si esa presión se realiza con una palomilla, tuerca, complicado...he de decir también, que en la mia, al colocar los hilos, filásticas, los tres hilos que componen el futuro cabo, deben de tener la misma tensión en 5 m, cosa muy complicada, pero al ser en tanta longuitud es menos apreciable. Un saludo amigo, desde España, y virutas:pag
 
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