Mike's 17th Century Battle Station

Thanks Maarten !!I think the main thing is to tilt the table ,lock and hold the position.I was familiar with the Parkside brand ,they are making cheap tools and they are not bad!!
 
Next, I took the upper clamp and tapered it in my Brynes sander. I set the tilt at 17 degrees. 16 or 16.5 degrees might have been a little better... depends on the specific model. I reassembled the clamp and checked the fit of the deck framing.
G'day Mike and Dave
Regarding the angle that you need, I think I've got a better solutions.
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I got digital inclinometer and one of it's features are you can reset the base reading to zero.
What's my idea is to find out exactly where the beam touches the hull frame and to the lowest top point of the top spirket. Because the angle reader is set to zero you can place it on top of the top deck beam. This digital reader can go to 0.1°. Then go to the sander and place the angle reader on 90° plate to the disc and adjust the plate to the angle you want.
Presto perfect angle.
If you want, I'll try to take photos on me sander etc so you get a better idea.
It might take a while as I have been ordered not to do any work while I'm sick, by my admiral. You can read my post in The Doctor's Waiting Room thread to get the reason for my admiral's order.:rolleyes:
Happymodeling
Greg
 
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After spending too much time fine tuning the taper on the upper clamp, I went ahead and glued it to the assembly. For some added detail, I quickly zapped some treenails with the laser into the clamp and added wipe on poly. I made the treenails slightly larger than the other treenails. I also glued in the remaining half frames. Progress continues ...
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Don turned three different styles of support columns on his Sherline lathe. He made 6 for each of us. The model only requires 5 so we can use the best ones or have an extra in case we cut one too short. The supports are in cherry and need to be cut to length. We already know the magic length from previously is 2.25".
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After measuring from center and finding exact end marks for 2.25", I carefully started cutting down a support on my Byrnes table saw. This saw is VERY precise. I make several passes until I very slowly reach the marks. I only do this for ONE of the supports.
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I confirm the support is exactly 2.25" long and then test fit it at the center position on the model supporting the upper deck framework... beauty. After I stare at this for a while and take some further leveling measurements, I will use this support as the master to set the fence and cut the other supports to the exact same length. Thank you Don!!
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G'day guys
Here are the photos that I promised.
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The sander table is perfectly square to the disc, but my bench top is not exactly parallel to the ground.
So after pressing the zero button, it shows it's now level.
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I decided that I want the sander work top to be inclined at 18°, so I tilted it and stopped when the display showed the desired angle.
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Now the sander plate is at 18°, ready for sanding.
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To work out the angle that you need, you can use the inclinometer in the similar way.
Havagooday to all
Greg
 
Greg - that is a very cool tool. I will definitely be on the look out for one. Thanks for sharing.

Maarten - My CNC and Laser are two separate tools. Both are expensive commercial tools that I am fortunate to own through my wife's cutting board/engraving business. www.wellwrittengifts.com I have been building models as a life-long hobby.

My CNC is a 24" x 36" ShopBot with a Bosch spindle. ShopBots are made here in North Carolina.
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My laser is a 24" x 18" 60 Watt Epilog CO2. Made in Colorado.
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Once I got the 5 best support columns cut close to the same length (2.25") I used an old-school sanding tool to square up all 5 columns to identical length. I'm not sure where I got this simple tool... I think it was Micro-Mark.

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Then I placed them into my magnetic jig to verify squareness and length. For these specific parts getting all 5 columns to the same length relative to each other is more important than the actual measured distance of 2.25". However, it looks like we got pretty close on both dimensions.
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Then we did a test fitment of the upper deck framework with all 5 support columns. The bubble level tells the story.
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Keep in mind... there is no glue, pins, tape, or clamps holding this assembly in place..
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One last shot from underneath so Uwe can get a look at the char. :)
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Thanks Dave!!! I have to keep going so you don't pass me!!

Turned my attention back to the outer planking... Added a swiss pear channel wale. Next up was a beautiful strake made of holly that includes holes for the gunport control lines. I clamped the plank in place and carefully marked the location of the holes.
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Then I removed the plank and carefully hand drilled a starter hole through the frame. We want the hole to exit just above the upper clamp.
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I gradually increased the bit size until we arrived at a 1/8" hole. The rigging line is designed to run just between the clamp and the lodging knee. We shall see how that works out!!
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Glued the holly strake in place as well as the next channel wale, also in swiss pear.
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My friend and friends building the other two models......you three are making here a great job.
Extremely good and informative photos of great models.....
And off course I have to thank you especially that you showed me the beautifull char ;)
BTW: the tool for sanding to the same length is cool, simple, but looking at it, it makes realy sense
 
Hi Guys, I just purchased a 5 in disc sander for the same price as the one shown $39.99 at my local Menards have not used it yet but will be soon and let you know how it works,,,,, MAARTEN I saw also on the site you linked to a sharpener I wonder if it could sharpen my MINI CHISELS. THANKS Don
 
Maarten - My CNC and Laser are two separate tools. Both are expensive commercial tools that I am fortunate to own through my wife's cutting board/engraving business. www.wellwrittengifts.com I have been building models as a life-long hobby.


Great Tools Mike, indeed slightly over budget for hobby. Am now looking into chinese x6-1500 machine or the German stepcraft. Chinese seems to be the better one mechanically, more ridged. Germans have better electronics. I will further investigate.
 
donfarr said:
Hi Guys, I just purchased a 5 in disc sander for the same price as the one shown $39.99 at my local Menards have not used it yet but will be soon and let you know how it works,,,,, MAARTEN I saw also on the site you linked to a sharpener I wonder if it could sharpen my MINI CHISELS. THANKS Don
Click to expand...
Hi Don,

It can sharpen chisels, ofcourse only flat ones no curved or angled chisels. For others see the link below. I cant find an English lidl site with a tool overview.
https://www.lidl-shop.nl/PARKSIDE-Slijpstation/p100232784?from=recommendation&scenario=also_clicked
 
Completed the outer planking today which included strakes of boxwood, pear, and ebony. I selected the single channel sheer trim in swiss pear for the top plank. After the inboard planking is completed this will be topped off by a rosewood cap rail.

Still need to do some work around the upper gunport but you get the idea...
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I love how the planking smoothly follows those cherry frames. They have nearly all disappeared.
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Dave really out did himself with the wood selection for this project!!! I can't stop looking at it.
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