Mike's 17th Century Battle Station

mrshanks said:
Hi Uwe. Good question. On my particular model, yes, I plan to leave the char as a decorative color contrast. That is why some of the parts in this assembly were CNC while others were laser cut. It should blend nicely with the edges of the planks.
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It is off course a question of taste......I am from the other group of modelers, means I try to make a model as realistic like the original as possible. Therefore I am trying not to leave any char where ever possible - maybe therefore I have to sand on my model so much in moment.... :mad:
 
Uwek said:
I am from the other group of modelers, means I try to make a model as realistic like the original as possible.
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Hahahaha, well I guess we shouldn't be building with cherry, maple, swiss pear or boxwood. Throw away the CA, white glue, and poly. LOL. No lasers or CNC machines. Hand tools and chisels only!!!!

I'm just picking on you Uwe and I am in that other group with you as well. This particular project is more intended as an architectural/engineering exercise than an authentic representation of an actual ship. You may see the char sanded away on Dave or Don's... who knows.. The fun of scratch building .... :)

Try to view the char as a color contrast and not char... LOL


Beginning the test fitment process for the main/upper deck framework. Note the clamp is not in place. I was in a hurry to show this so Uwe could see the char. :)
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DocBlake said:
Mike: There are laser etched simulated bolts on the center carling at the points of intersection with the deck beams. Why only that one? I think Jeff Staudt inadvertently left them off the plans.
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Those are actually alignment holes for the nails that will go into the support posts. Optional: you can simulate the other exposed ones if you want to.
 
zoly99sask said:
Consuder the “char “ historicly accurate ,just in a different accent “tar” used for seal stuff on the ship Lol ;):)
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I think, that these parts of the ship would get in touch with sea water, only when it is sinking. And in this case it would be not very much important, if it is sealed with tar.......maybe only the archeologists 250 years later would be very happy..... o_O
@mrshanks , mike,
Many thanks for the „in hurry“ showing the beams and carlings - yes! It is looking good, it is looking realy good -
to tell you the truth -> I am only a little bit jealous and I have to find „something“
Realy Great work of you three :):):):)
 
Ok.... time for that pesky upper clamp.

Let's begin by clamping the upper clamp in place directly on top of the last spirket. Regardless of what the plans say, we can see that the bottom of the clamp fits nice and flush to the spirket so no taper is needed here. However, when we rest the upper deck framework assembly on top of the clamp and level it we see a gap and angle difference where the two elements meet. Let's draw a line 1/16" down the clamp staying parallel with the deck beam. Why 1/16"??
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Because the plans indicate the upper deck should be 2.25" from the lower edge of the deck beam down to the lower deck planking. I leveled the framework up to be exactly 1/16" above that or 2 5/16" or 2.3125", whatever suites you.. :)
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Next, I took the upper clamp and tapered it in my Brynes sander. I set the tilt at 17 degrees. 16 or 16.5 degrees might have been a little better... depends on the specific model. I reassembled the clamp and checked the fit of the deck framing.
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As verification, went back and measured the magic distance and it came out right at 2.25" as expected. Now the upper deck framework and clamp is ready to be glued in but we need to do a bunch more pre-work on the support posts, lodging knees, and hanging knees before we actually glue anything.
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DocBlake said:
The waterways require a 15 degree taper across the broad back surface. The Byrnes sander's adjustable bevel bed has positive stops every 5 degrees from 0 to 45. Just set the stop to 15 degrees and feed the wokrpiece into the sander. I don't know how you could get an accurate angle without one!
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Would it be possible to show this with a photo or two?
Since the Byrnes is now avaialable with 230 Volts I am thing about ordering one from US, so your description sounds interesting.....Would be great
 
YOU WILL NOT BE SORRY, UWE!! The sander is an awesome tool and I use it a lot. It is incredibly precise, also. The first photo shows the upper deck waterway, and the lower deck waterway after tapering on the sander. You can see the sander's bed set up to sand at a 15 degree angle, and see the waterway blank against the sanding disk.IMG_0188.JPGIMG_0191.JPGIMG_0189.JPGImg_0190.jpg
 
Maarten said:
Beautiful machine but expensive to get one in Europe. Uwe Lidl has one for only 39 euro, not of this quality offcourse but it will do the trick.
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Maarten,can you post a link please for that tool from Lidl?thanks
 
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