May 18, 2006
Model Shipways - Sultana Colonial Schooner - Solid Hull Kit
Built by Benjamin Hollowell in Boston in 1767, Sultana was seaworthy far beyond her size of 51 feet. The Royal Navy bought her in 1768, and she became one of Britain´s most effective weapons in the fight against smugglers.
The Sultana comes with a machine carved basswood hull that requires a little light shaping and sanding. This kit also has other wooden parts, including a ship´s boat, which is laser cut for a perfect fit. Plank-scored decking, spars, wood materials and eight cast metal swivel guns are all included. For historical accuracy, original rigging is duplicated with cotton cordage and 67 wooden blocks. Detailed plans by Ben Lankford and a 24 page instruction manual help you build an authentic replica.
This is an Entry Level Kit
Length 17 inches Height 15 inches Scale 3/16 inches = 1 ft. (1:64)
Ok, so this is going to be very obvious to some and to others it may not be so apparent. There might be some here that have never tackled a wooden ship model before. I can only say that I have had a "taste" of it, but no completions. Wooden Ships will go together will a different type of personality if you will. There are a lot of differences that go beyond the scope of this posting that I am making now. Depending on the complexity of the wooden ship depends on how much "building" is done not "putting together".
This is why I choose the Sultana is that is has a combination of "putting together" and "building". And for heavens sake I certainly hope that I do not come across any certain way by describing "putting together" and "building" as both applies to making a model. I am sure however, that some will contest my witting and my attempt to help. My time is limited right now, so I am in a bind to be less wordy about it at the moment. Now, The discussion at this moment for this build is about Adhesives I done some research about what kind of glue to use with wooden ships. Like I said, bear with me. I have found that if you use Cynoacrylate or CA (super glue) then that is ok, but one thing that some needs to think about is this: If you plan to finish your Sultana with like a natural stain or whatever (instead of painting colors), you might find that the CA glues will not allow your stain to get thru, but will "block" that stain.
If you want to stain naturally your ship, you might want to consider using some products like Titebond original, regular Carpenters Glue and or a product called Weldbond. These later glues allow for stains to be applied and they are also "sandable" whereas the CA glues will dry on the surface hard and maybe crusty depending on your expertise of applications. I am going to go with a variety of CA and some locally bought Titebond from Lowes. I think the Titebond will dry fast enough for what I want to do. My ambition here is not to get carried away with Adhesives, but just to put some thoughts out there for this project coming up. I am not going to go with a stain per say, but I think the mast might have a stain look to it. I will use the Titebond or something similar with that as it will not hinder the looks of the mast or yards. But on parts that will be hidden, then the CA will do fine. There are also some applicator tips that you can use to make sure that too much CA is not being used. I tend to be a little allergic for some reason of the CA. I found that ZAP makes a non-odor variety or non-allergic. It does cost more, but it actually works (no allergic reaction no odors).
Model Shipways - Sultana Colonial Schooner - Solid Hull Kit
Built by Benjamin Hollowell in Boston in 1767, Sultana was seaworthy far beyond her size of 51 feet. The Royal Navy bought her in 1768, and she became one of Britain´s most effective weapons in the fight against smugglers.
The Sultana comes with a machine carved basswood hull that requires a little light shaping and sanding. This kit also has other wooden parts, including a ship´s boat, which is laser cut for a perfect fit. Plank-scored decking, spars, wood materials and eight cast metal swivel guns are all included. For historical accuracy, original rigging is duplicated with cotton cordage and 67 wooden blocks. Detailed plans by Ben Lankford and a 24 page instruction manual help you build an authentic replica.
This is an Entry Level Kit
Length 17 inches Height 15 inches Scale 3/16 inches = 1 ft. (1:64)
Ok, so this is going to be very obvious to some and to others it may not be so apparent. There might be some here that have never tackled a wooden ship model before. I can only say that I have had a "taste" of it, but no completions. Wooden Ships will go together will a different type of personality if you will. There are a lot of differences that go beyond the scope of this posting that I am making now. Depending on the complexity of the wooden ship depends on how much "building" is done not "putting together".
This is why I choose the Sultana is that is has a combination of "putting together" and "building". And for heavens sake I certainly hope that I do not come across any certain way by describing "putting together" and "building" as both applies to making a model. I am sure however, that some will contest my witting and my attempt to help. My time is limited right now, so I am in a bind to be less wordy about it at the moment. Now, The discussion at this moment for this build is about Adhesives I done some research about what kind of glue to use with wooden ships. Like I said, bear with me. I have found that if you use Cynoacrylate or CA (super glue) then that is ok, but one thing that some needs to think about is this: If you plan to finish your Sultana with like a natural stain or whatever (instead of painting colors), you might find that the CA glues will not allow your stain to get thru, but will "block" that stain.
If you want to stain naturally your ship, you might want to consider using some products like Titebond original, regular Carpenters Glue and or a product called Weldbond. These later glues allow for stains to be applied and they are also "sandable" whereas the CA glues will dry on the surface hard and maybe crusty depending on your expertise of applications. I am going to go with a variety of CA and some locally bought Titebond from Lowes. I think the Titebond will dry fast enough for what I want to do. My ambition here is not to get carried away with Adhesives, but just to put some thoughts out there for this project coming up. I am not going to go with a stain per say, but I think the mast might have a stain look to it. I will use the Titebond or something similar with that as it will not hinder the looks of the mast or yards. But on parts that will be hidden, then the CA will do fine. There are also some applicator tips that you can use to make sure that too much CA is not being used. I tend to be a little allergic for some reason of the CA. I found that ZAP makes a non-odor variety or non-allergic. It does cost more, but it actually works (no allergic reaction no odors).