Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Johan, Yes that is true in most cases, besides she has much better tast for colors than I do.
Regards Lawrence
MY BLUENOSE- YUANQING SCALE 1:72 SCALE [COMPLETED BUILD]
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Johan, Thanks for your very kind words, Yes the aft deck planking went quite well after our re-doo start.
Regards Lawrence
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Exactly, that's how we, males, convince ourselves.
Good morning Lawrence. True story
. Cheers Grant
Good morning. Excellent work. I do agree with your Admiral re the tung oil as the deck finish. Cheers Grant
Hi Lawrence. You may not be surprised if you hear from me: 'Oil'. Because that's what I came up with on my deck.
Regards, Peter
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Johan, This is very true, but she dose have a better feel for colors than I do.Exactly, that's how we, males, convince ourselves.
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Grant Yes I do believe that my Admiral has made a a fine choice. Thanks for your vote.
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Peter, Yes I do remember that your color test. The Tung Oil dose seam to have a much deeper softer color.
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Ship Mates, Well today the little fellows and I finally got up the nerve to add our long planed idea to add 12 cut outs to the unfinished starboard side of our YQ-Bluenose. These cut outs are rather small at .980" x .484" or 24.90 x 12.32 mm . We would have liked to go a little deeper but the lower decks fore and aft put a damper on this idea. We also completed the transom, painted the inside and cleaned up the outer starboard hull planking .
Regards Lawrence
Regards Lawrence
Good morning Lawrence. My wood experience is limited so an elementary question if I may. I’m thinking of using Tung oil on my Cazador deck as well. Do the deck fittings still glue sufficiently to an oiled deck or does one have to use a different glue base?
Cheers Grant
How nice that a saw has been used in a different creative way.
With a result that looks promising. Respect for this ‘drastic’ step, Lawrence. Because once you start there is no going back. And the cutouts of every 2 frames give a nice regular pattern.Regards, Peter
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Hi Grant. Although your question has been directed to Lawrence, I hope he will allow me to share my experience here.
I provided the deck of my BN with (boiled linseed) oil in early May 2022 —> Page 98, post #1960 <—. Then I built up the deck. The oil has to be 'dried in' quite a bit before an acceptable adhesion can be obtained. And everything is still in place and has already survived several transport activities. I mainly used CA for the bond. I have always slightly roughened the surface or edge to be glued. Oil and glue are not friends, but the adhesion is acceptable. Now after about a year the oil has dried more on the surface and the adhesion is getting better. I still need to add items.
But ….. the best is glueing before oiling.
But ….. the best polishing of the oiled deck is made with nice long strokes over a flat deck.
I just don't know what the different drying properties are between Tung oil and Linseed oil.
Regards, Peter
I'll weigh in too, Grant (sorry Lawrence). At one point in my Vasa build I proudly presented my newly oiled hull (boiled linseed oil) to the forum and there was a collective GASP. You didn't apply oil already, did you? Nothing will ever stick to the hull... That sent me digging deep into the mysteries of wood finishing and I arrived at the same place Peter did experientially. While it was true that attempts to glue things to the hull early on created very weak bonds - after a while, things got much better. Now, with all that said, my research also indicated that tung oil is a different beast. It never really 'dries in' and bond strength will forever be compromised (though I believe Heinrich uses tung oil and he might have some helpful tips here). In any case: caution. If I had it to so over again I'd be slow to treat with oil until most everything is glued in place.Hi Grant. Although your question has been directed to Lawrence, I hope he will allow me to share my experience here.
I provided the deck of my BN with (boiled linseed) oil in early May 2022 —> Page 98, post #1960 <—. Then I built up the deck. The oil has to be 'dried in' quite a bit before an acceptable adhesion can be obtained. And everything is still in place and has already survived several transport activities. I mainly used CA for the bond. I have always slightly roughened the surface or edge to be glued. Oil and glue are not friends, but the adhesion is acceptable. Now after about a year the oil has dried more on the surface and the adhesion is getting better. I still need to add items.
But ….. the best is glueing before oiling.
But ….. the best polishing of the oiled deck is made with nice long strokes over a flat deck.
I just don't know what the different drying properties are between Tung oil and Linseed oil.
Regards, Peter
Again, my apologies Lawrence for this diversion. Love the way you have helped voyeurs peer inside your boat!
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Grant, Tung Oil is a funny beast to say the least. Once applied to your wood or deck or what ever it dose not like to accept glue of any type. This is the reason for me holding off on oiling my ship, even with the temptation is so great to see just how nice it will look after it is applied.
Over the years I have found that if one must glue a extra item to the applied Tung Oil, I scraped the gluing area as much as possible and have got a fairly good good glue joint but not as strong as I would prefer. It can be done but it will not be the best.
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Peter, I thank you very much for your kind words and overly nice comments. Thanks for your understanding on just why I had to put a saw to my YQ-Bluenose. I wanted to show how the seamen lived and worked on these little fishing schooners for months on end at times. My Great Grand Father commanded one of these fishing schooners in the early 1900"s as did his father before him. So as you can see it has a special meaning for me to do so.How nice that a saw has been used in a different creative way.
Regards, Peter
Yes once started there is no going back and it took a lot of nerve and edging from the little fellows to do so. Besides once completed it will give a new perspective on how my schooner will look.
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Peter, no problem at all for posting. Very good advice, I just love that Tung Oil look but it dose have it's drawbacks that I have found over the years.Hi Grant. Although your question has been directed to Lawrence, I hope he will allow me to share my experience here.
I provided the deck of my BN with (boiled linseed) oil in early May 2022 —> Page 98, post #1960 <—. Then I built up the deck. The oil has to be 'dried in' quite a bit before an acceptable adhesion can be obtained. And everything is still in place and has already survived several transport activities. I mainly used CA for the bond. I have always slightly roughened the surface or edge to be glued. Oil and glue are not friends, but the adhesion is acceptable. Now after about a year the oil has dried more on the surface and the adhesion is getting better. I still need to add items.
But ….. the best is glueing before oiling.
But ….. the best polishing of the oiled deck is made with nice long strokes over a flat deck.
I just don't know what the different drying properties are between Tung oil and Linseed oil.
Regards, Peter
Regards Lawrence
Canoe21
Lawrence
Hello Paul, No apology necessary. You also give very good advice and that is why I love the SOS Form, it helps other ship builders to avoin some of our mistakes. Yes Tung Oil dose do a very nice job but it can also give a great deal of head aches.
Regards Lawrence
Decks look great Lawrence. I have always said oil for furniture and clear coat for models. But that is my personal preference and I can’t possibly expect everyone to agree. But I never have any issues with gluing parts!
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As per usual I am late to comment, but time is of late a scarce commodity. May I add my two cents to the Tung Oil debate in answer to @GrantTyler Grant's question. Real Tung Oil comes from China and even then, there are different varieties. I am in the fortunate position that I have access to the purest of pure Tung Oil, i.e., 100%. I have used it on the Steamed Pearwood of my Unicorn Sampan, on the Pearwood of my Leudo and on the Elm wood of my 1935 Bowman Swallow steamboat No finish on earth (and that includes the much-vaunted Bitumen of Judea) comes close to real Tung on Pear (in my opinion).
BUT
No glue will stick to it, Scraped, sanded, after a year, two years or even three years (as in the case of the Bowman). As a result of that, I do not use it anymore. Now that I have discovered water-based CLOU stain, I will not use anything else.
BUT
No glue will stick to it, Scraped, sanded, after a year, two years or even three years (as in the case of the Bowman). As a result of that, I do not use it anymore. Now that I have discovered water-based CLOU stain, I will not use anything else.